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Replaced EGR valve and gasket, SES still on

GTLGDP

GTLGDP

New member
Did i do something wrong? I got most of the old gasket off (It was basically disintegrated), took old egr off, put new one on. Start up car, light was still on. I didn't drive it around i literally turned the car on for like 2 minutes.
 


#1. some codes have to be cleared by a scanner.
#2. Some codes will reset after so many miles of fault-free driving.
 
Approximately how long of fault-free driving? Drove all yesterday and a little this morning, code still on. How would i be able to tell if i did something wrong compared to me doing something right, but i just have to delete the code. I worry a lot lol
 
I am not sure on the amount of miles needed.... But IIRC the egr code is one that will have to be cleared...
 
Cleaned most of the gasket off makes me think....leak.

Yes..either it needs to be cleared or the pcm needs to run the test. If you looked up the code that you didn't provide to us in an FSM, then you'd understand how and when the code sets and clears.
 


Well i couldn't really take it off it was more of a "take a screwdriver and chip off the remains of the old gasket." Maybe that's my problem, don't know. I put a new gasket on then screwed everything nice and tight so i don't see how that could be a big leak, but you guys are the smart ones not me. I call my mechanic who always works on my car, he said i have to clear the code. My only fear is that i clear it, but then finding out something is still wrong. I don't have the actual code though
 
It's all cool.

I had a friend replace a waterpump. I explained that if only one thing was done right, it was cleaning the old gasket. She did that job a second time based on the gasket that was left behind. Not saying yours is an issue, it may be though.

Not having the actual code, well...that makes it tough to determine how you should fix it.

I hope the light disappears on it's own for you.
 
You know what, I'm almost positive i also have a code for a knock sensor because of all the rattle and noise my bad coupler is making. Thats probably why its still on.

No idea whats causing my car to lag and not have full power at full throttle though.
 
GTLGDP said:
You know what, I'm almost positive i also have a code for a knock sensor because of all the rattle and noise my bad coupler is making. Thats probably why its still on.

No idea whats causing my car to lag and not have full power at full throttle though.
Click to expand...


I was not aware that the coupler rattleing will cause the Knock sensor to throw a code....
 


I'm only aware of the knock sensors setting codes for bad voltage etc. Not for any knocking. They are there to pick up the knocking and retard timing based on how much they hear. FWIW I haven't come across one that thought coupler noise was engine knock.
 
I guess we'll find out once i change my coupler on thursday lol. I also went to Advanced Auto, they said they aren't aloud to clear codes. I even braught him out and showed him the replaced EGR valve, said he still couldnt -_-
 
you can try reseting them yourself.... I have heard that by unhooking the battery and touching the battery cables together sometimes you can remove all the residual charge from the charging system... I have never tried it.. Just heard about it...
 
BTW if you find a garage that is decent they might reset them for you for free.... Just had to go have mine scanned by a garage... My scanner doesnt do ABS codes....
 
We won't find out.. take a look at the DTC code list and find a "engine knocking" type code. There's voltage and stuff like that. But your knock sensors are getting AC and then the pcm reads the feedback, which is why it's one wire per bank.
 


Why wouldn't you follow the possible causes and test the things you can before shotgunning a sensor?

Unless you really like getting a coolant bath that is.
 
I'm not good with technical car things so you're confusing me lol. I don't know what i could do?
 
Well..the link you posted suggests this

[h=2]Possible Solutions[/h]
  • Verify the resistance of the knock sensor (compare it to factory specs)
  • Inspect for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor
  • Check the wiring and connections leading to/from the knock sensor and PCM/ECM
  • Verify proper voltage is reaching the knock sensor (e.g. 5 volts)
  • Verify proper grounding of sensor and circuit
  • Replace the knock sensor
  • Replace the PCM/ECM
I know you can look at wires, if you ask we can help you test resistance and voltage. Proper grounding...WTF the sensor is in the engine block..lol.
 
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