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My list of possible upcoming mods. I have some questions :)

Freebeer187

Freebeer187

New member
Exhaust:

Monza 3 inch Cat back
ZZ Performance

I do not know much about this brand or the quality of the parts. I think i would install a resonator too. Anyone have or have heard about this cat back system?

Headers:

Pace setters W/ Catted down pipe.

ZZ Performance


Pulley:

3.4 Pulley (will be installed last!)

ZZ Performance

Intake:

Wizaired (expensive as hell!)

ZZ Performance

PCM:
ZZ Performance

Thermostat
180* ZZ Performance

ZZP is really expensive... I most would like to find a cheaper solution to an intake. Anyone know where to get a cheaper box intake like the wizaired? I have look at the tutorials on how to make a custom intake, but I dont feel I would want that for myself. As for the exhaust, its going to take some time and $ before that gets done.

Any comments, recomendations? My next upgrade will be a nice intake.

Thanks!
 


Well, I do know that the guys wo have the Wizair intake have nothing but good things to say about that. You may want to get the thermostat at a NAPA, it would save you 5 bucks or so. I haven't really heard about the catback, but honestly, that might be simple overkill. You could have your own mufflers and tips welded in much cheaper, as the stock catback does more than it's fair share to flow the exhaust. And you can keep your stock resonator.

If you decide to keep your stock exhaust mostly in tact, you can point the savings toward another mod, maybe even get you a ported blower case and a bigger throttle body to help get your air intake more efficient.

On the Pacesetters.....don't get the uncoated ones, spend the extra cash and get the hot coated...it will make them look much better and keep them looking good for a long time.
 
Monza has been around for a while, but haven't heard anybody with it or even talk about them. Seen some rides way back in the day in magazines with it. As far as the PCM, haven't heard to many people talk good about the ZZP, some have had good luck with it, but have seen alot of post that recomend going with overkill pcm's. Matbe someone can give better details on that for you. I know somebody that can give you a sweet ported s/c housing.^^^^^^You know who I'm talking about, right REPTILE^^^^.
 
Everything but the pulley. Before installing the pulley, scan the car, get a good tune, they put on the 3.4 otherwise you'll get a lot of knock most likely.
 


Here is my opinion on everything and how I would go about it:

Exhaust: I would buy some mufflers, and have them installed locally, if you really want your car to sound better. The only reason I did the exhaust on my car is because the stock was rusted off. If I had a good stock exhaust on my car, I wouldn't touch it. It will handle into the mid 13s just fine. No reason to change it. So unless you really, really need to change your exhaust, or just want it obnoxiously loud, don't touch it.

Headers: Pacesetters are okay, but they are probably going to be a nightmere to get to seal. Even with getting them from ZZP. If you want the headers, check ebay. I think they sell them on there for a little cheaper. If you are tight on cash, get a P-log for the front, 3" DP, and a ported rear manifold. Should be more than enough for the mods you want to do.

Pulley: Yes, install last. After you make sure you don't have any knock. Then scan again to make sure you still don't have any knock.

Intake: Yes, Wizaired is a really good intake. But it is really expensive. I have a cheap DIY-from-Lowes intake on my car and it works fine. Check around and read up on do it yourself FWIs and save yourself $150.

PCM: Okay, here is where you are not going to like my opinions. If you plan on doing all these mods to your car, an off the shelf PCM may work just fine. But if you want the most of out these mods, you need a tuner. The cheapest one I would suggest is the DHP Powrtuner. They are no longer made, but a lot of people have them, and they still have some good support for them. They can be picked up for around $350 used. Get a $100 laptop, and you are ready to go. [plug] If you are interested in a used PowrTuner, PM me. I have one for sale.[/plug]

Thermostat: Personally, I don't think the t-stat is needed, unless you live in really hot climates and drive your car like you stole it everyday, everywhere. But this has been debated. You car will run fine with a stock t-stat. Mine does everyday. The only way that your car will get more performance with a cooler t-stat is if you are not modding correctly and are getting KR. At the track, yeah, run a cool t-stat. But if you drive your car at all on the street as a DD, a stock t-stat is fine. And ditto picking it up at a local auto parts store to save a couple bucks.

Mod Order: If it were me, I would get the tuner first. Get used to scanning. Get comfortable changing things. Get a good tune before you mod. Change your trans settings, etc. Then make a cheap DIY intake. And re-tune. Then do your exhaust work. And re-tune. Then, if all is good, drop down a pulley size. And re-tune. If you do that, you should have an awesome mid-high 13 second car.
 
Zef_66 said:
Here is my opinion on everything and how I would go about it:

Exhaust: I would buy some mufflers, and have them installed locally, if you really want your car to sound better. The only reason I did the exhaust on my car is because the stock was rusted off. If I had a good stock exhaust on my car, I wouldn't touch it. It will handle into the mid 13s just fine. No reason to change it. So unless you really, really need to change your exhaust, or just want it obnoxiously loud, don't touch it.

Headers: Pacesetters are okay, but they are probably going to be a nightmere to get to seal. Even with getting them from ZZP. If you want the headers, check ebay. I think they sell them on there for a little cheaper. If you are tight on cash, get a P-log for the front, 3" DP, and a ported rear manifold. Should be more than enough for the mods you want to do.

Pulley: Yes, install last. After you make sure you don't have any knock. Then scan again to make sure you still don't have any knock.

Intake: Yes, Wizaired is a really good intake. But it is really expensive. I have a cheap DIY-from-Lowes intake on my car and it works fine. Check around and read up on do it yourself FWIs and save yourself $150.

PCM: Okay, here is where you are not going to like my opinions. If you plan on doing all these mods to your car, an off the shelf PCM may work just fine. But if you want the most of out these mods, you need a tuner. The cheapest one I would suggest is the DHP Powrtuner. They are no longer made, but a lot of people have them, and they still have some good support for them. They can be picked up for around $350 used. Get a $100 laptop, and you are ready to go. [plug] If you are interested in a used PowrTuner, PM me. I have one for sale.[/plug]

Thermostat: Personally, I don't think the t-stat is needed, unless you live in really hot climates and drive your car like you stole it everyday, everywhere. But this has been debated. You car will run fine with a stock t-stat. Mine does everyday. The only way that your car will get more performance with a cooler t-stat is if you are not modding correctly and are getting KR. At the track, yeah, run a cool t-stat. But if you drive your car at all on the street as a DD, a stock t-stat is fine. And ditto picking it up at a local auto parts store to save a couple bucks.

Mod Order: If it were me, I would get the tuner first. Get used to scanning. Get comfortable changing things. Get a good tune before you mod. Change your trans settings, etc. Then make a cheap DIY intake. And re-tune. Then do your exhaust work. And re-tune. Then, if all is good, drop down a pulley size. And re-tune. If you do that, you should have an awesome mid-high 13 second car.
Click to expand...

Well put! I will follow all your directions.

Quick question. When you say tune or scan, could a snap on scan tool be used? It will check for knock and all that good stuff right? I have a friend that has one. You had mentioned the performance tuner. Thats another day and another couple of pay checks.

I think here in a few days im going to use the snap on scan tool to see if there is any problems.

The car does "knock" or rumble in neutral and park but not in drive. The knock will stop after you turn on the air, but when you turn the air condition off, the knock comes back. Sound bad?
 
thats problew random misfire at idle. BP gas got that to go away for me. i used to buy gas because it was cheap but i have found out that they are not all the same. do your car a favor and put some good gas in it if your not all ready. and DO NOT run 89 octane. mine bucked like a mofo then, in nutral. and if you go with a pcm. overkill. i have heard nothing but good from them. zzp on the otherhand. eghhhh
 
and ive heard that the zzp fitting kit with the pacesetters dont really work either. ive also heard some good clamps from autozone fixes the leak problem along with some rtv.
 
blowfishRus6 said:
thats problew random misfire at idle. BP gas got that to go away for me. i used to buy gas because it was cheap but i have found out that they are not all the same. do your car a favor and put some good gas in it if your not all ready. and DO NOT run 89 octane. mine bucked like a mofo then, in nutral. and if you go with a pcm. overkill. i have heard nothing but good from them. zzp on the otherhand. eghhhh
Click to expand...

Hmmmm BP gas. I wonder if it is true! Maby all the fancy green pumps and store fronts actually means better gas? Ill give it a shot for a week. Ill fill up a few times to get the nice mixture back in.

Unfortunately, I think the problem is elsewhere. The car... Leaks oil. A very tiny drop (size of a dime) after 24 hours of sitting will appear. I think if i get that fixed, i may have better luck getting the misfire to go away. Im not expert but i think this is more the problem.

Btw, I only run 93 in the car. :D
 


BP gas made a world of difference for my random misfire. got rid of it almost completly. i was suprised myself at what better gas could do. and yea it took about a week to get it to that point.
 
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