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Doing rockers and springs on Monday

SleeperGS

SleeperGS

New member
As some of you have already read and some have gave some VERY helpful info, I am installing 1.9 Yella Terra's on the GS. I have already purchased the YT RR's (duh), VC gaskets x2, CC rocker bolt, assy lube, CC 90lb springs, and zzp retainers. I have a few questions.

1.)What the hell is the name of the neumatic tool to pump the cylinder up and how much do I pump it up to keep the valve up?
2.)What 'poundage' do I torque the YT's to? I have heard 23, and I have heard 11 with a 90 degree turn.
3.) Should I go ahead and get new OEM valve seals since Im there; and are they(seals) hard to put in and not loose the valve down da hole?
Many Thanks
 


I think it is called an air hold or something. Car has 166k on it, prob ought todo the valves i guess. Thanks
 
1. Its the piece from a compression tester, instead of putting the compression gauge on it you hook the air hose from your compressor to it. Autozone rents the comression tester if you need one.
2. ^^^^
3. Why oem? Why not vitton? seals just slide right off and when putting the new ones on I used a socket upside down and slid it over the valve to seat it evenly. The valves won't fall unless you loose air pressure in the cylinder
 
Thanks guys. I hope this turns out well and I dont loose the valve and have to pull the head! Thats the only thing im worried about.
 
SleeperGS said:
Thanks guys. I hope this turns out well and I dont loose the valve and have to pull the head! Thats the only thing im worried about.
Click to expand...

So long as your compressor doesn't crap out and loose all air pressure you should be fine on the valves, just keep track of which two you are working on and make sure you move the air line to the next before you start which is obvious but I'm just saying double double check
 


When pulling out the old seal, and putting the new one in, thats what im worried about...hitting that damn valve just right and BAM! Bobs your uncle! Probably over reacting
 
When checking for bent valve on an import motor one time I aired up the cylinders and on the good straight valve ones I could smack the top of the valve pretty hard with my 2-3lb sledge and it just shot the valve right back up so don't worry about putting a little downforce on it when doing the seals. Aslo be careful when airing up the cylinders as it will push that piston to BDC pretty fast so don't have your hands wrapped up in the belts when turning the air on. And I just let my compressor run and stay on max psi which is like 125-130 on mine.
 
So...hook the ol' compressor up, plug it in the spark plug hole, and let the compressor constantly kick off/on to keep pressure...GOT IT! Hey, thanks. I hope to see a great deal of difference in these as it relates to hp/tq.
 


Shouldn't but with the dryer and oil seperator and shutoff valve and all that junk plus my home made compressor lines cause I had to swap the motor + compressor and make some custom brackets mine pretty well cycles every 10 minutes just from leaks. Been planning on buying a 60-80 gal upright for a while so I just haven't seen the need to fix this one. You should listen closely through the intake and exhaust areas for leaks or hissing and you could diagnose burnt/worn valves easily and go from there...
 
SleeperGS said:
When I take the seals out, the valves will still stay up unitil I can get the new seal back on right?
Click to expand...

If you have air holding it up yes. If you have a lot of air going past the valve it is because the valve got stuck. If that happens you can (With the spring still on) hit the top of the valve with a rubber mallet to get them to properly seal.

The valve seals are the one thing I would buy from ZZP. They are actually smaller than the stock ones. They are also easier to install than the other type of Viton seals that some of the other vendors sell like PRJ.
 
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