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Alternator Trouble

Hippo Machine

Hippo Machine

Because Wet Leaves
So I was driving a little bit harder yesterday (low speeds for about 5 miles) when the battery light (or electrical system light?) came on. I took it to O'Reilly today and they checked it out for me for free.

First they checked the battery which was fine, but only had a 64% charge to it. The checked the alternator after, and it said 'LOW OUTPUT' so the guy said the alternator is bad.

He gave me a quote for a new one, which is the Ultima brand with lifetime warranty, $125.00 plus $25 core charge (whats that?), and tax = $160 total.
I don't get my check 'til tomorrow and (truthfully) don't know how much its gonna be, haha hopefully a good amount!

But anyways, I was checking under the hood later today to make sure the belt wasn't slipping or anything, which it wasn't. Reset the battery, didn't do anything (duh), and checked the fuse box thing. Interesting enough the 'Alt. Sense fuse was pushed out a little (dad says it was still making contact), not sure why. It looked to still be intact, and when placed back in, didn't change anything battery light wise.

I think thats everything...

So should I replace the alternator this weekend? What are your thoughts? Any info would be nice, TIA. Hope i got enough battery to get to work tomorrow!
 


yeah i'd go ahead and replace the alternator. the core charge would be what you pay unless you give them your alternator and then you get that money back i believe.

if it was tested bad, then it's bad. the fuse had nothing to do with the alternator on the tester inside the store right? then alternator is your prob.
 
Dependant on how the fuse is set up then a bad or non contacting fuse could cause the alternator not to charge the battery.

The way a core charge works is if you bring in the core (ie the part you are replacing) then you do not pay the core charge. If you do not bring in the core at purchase you pay the core charge, then when you bring the core in at a later date, you are refunded the orginal core charge.
 
those tester are made to say that its bad, trust i know and brandons right about the core charge..not a bad price replaceing it sounds ok too..more then likey its just old and wore out
 
well, if what they're saying ^^ is correct, then give it a whirl with your fuse all the way in tact. if it doesn't improve you know your problem :)
 


dpzelenak said:
those tester are made to say that its bad, trust i know and brandons right about the core charge..not a bad price replaceing it sounds ok too..more then likey its just old and wore out
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On my Stealth if the fusible link in the fuse box was bad or not connected the alternator would NOT charge. It wouldn't be a shock if its set up similar on other cars.
 
yea the fuse could have something to do with it, you could make the fuse right and drive it for a couple days and see if thats helps
 
dpzelenak said:
yea the fuse could have something to do with it, you could make the fuse right and drive it for a couple days and see if thats helps
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I pushed it back in, and turned the car on, the battery light was still on, if i drive a little bit is it possible it will go off?

Also jw, since i restarted the battery my fuel rang says 4 miles at half a tank is that ok ? lol
 
the battery light would go out if it started to charge. With a run down battery a alternator should go full field trying to charge the battery.
 
TheOtherNick said:
the battery light would go out if it started to charge. With a run down battery a alternator should go full field trying to charge the battery.
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I see... I'll check it out tomorrow. In other news, I think I'm gonna do my tune-up tomorrow if my dad is up to it...
 


yeah, drive to work tomorrow. if no change definitely replace that alternator. and why can't you do the tune-up without dad? lol.

and what all are you gonna tune up?
 
brandonl2000 said:
yeah, drive to work tomorrow. if no change definitely replace that alternator. and why can't you do the tune-up without dad? lol.

and what all are you gonna tune up?
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Well... I'm 16... and have never used a jack, which I need to get the fuel filter. And I don't really know anything about changing plugs or wires, plus my dad likes to help with these things. Those are the only things I'm doing I think, I already changed the air filter, and doesn't need an oil change for another month or so, might do that early if I have the money cuz I don't know if the oil sticker is lying. Anything I'm missing? I don't have enough for a pan drop or anything else really.
 
dont know if you have a battery charger, if so you may want to put it on overnight so you dont get stuck anywhere till the alt is changed. even when you know you got a battery problem, they still die fast, and unexpected.

try not to use the a/c, radio, (headlights if at night, like dont drive after dark lol), daytime running lights will kill it fast too.
 
scottydoggs said:
dont know if you have a battery charger, if so you may want to put it on overnight so you dont get stuck anywhere till the alt is changed. even when you know you got a battery problem, they still die fast, and unexpected.

try not to use the a/c, radio, (headlights if at night, like dont drive after dark lol), daytime running lights will kill it fast too.
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I turned everything off as much as possible, I won't even use my windows tomorrow.
 
Hippo Machine said:
Well... I'm 16... and have never used a jack, which I need to get the fuel filter. And I don't really know anything about changing plugs or wires, plus my dad likes to help with these things. Those are the only things I'm doing I think, I already changed the air filter, and doesn't need an oil change for another month or so, might do that early if I have the money cuz I don't know if the oil sticker is lying. Anything I'm missing? I don't have enough for a pan drop or anything else really.
Click to expand...

yeah, i hear ya on the pan drop, ****'s expensive. i need one myself.

but i understand, i was once in your shoes. but just start with smaller stuff and learn as you go. before you know it, you'll be taking it all apart lolz.

but as far as a tune up, plugs and wire are important, fuel filter, air filter (already done), and i'd do the pcv valve as well, which is an easy thing to do as well. :) and just as a heads up, back plugs are a b*tch, take the front motor mounts loose and rock her forward say with a ratchet strap so you have more room.
 


brandonl2000 said:
but as far as a tune up, plugs and wire are important, fuel filter, air filter (already done), and i'd do the pcv valve as well, which is an easy thing to do as well. :) and just as a heads up, back plugs are a b*tch, take the front motor mounts loose and rock her forward say with a ratchet strap so you have more room.
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Thanks. Noob question... PCV Valve?
 
a PCV valve is a ventilation system for exhaust gases that sneak into the crank case, basically. if you're looking at your engine from the front, it will be on the passenger size, near the top of the UIM (black snail looking thing). overtime they can get a little clogged and prevent MPGs and if bad enough can cause minor oil leaks. it's like what, $3 for a new pcv valve??

and as far as coolant, just pop off the lower radiator hose, drain it out, and just flush it with water, and when you're comfortable with it, just put your coolant back in :)

but if you're really concerned, it's okay to get the whole block flushed out professionally, it can never hurt. but i understand you're short on cash (like me) so i figured i'd give you the DIY option.
 
pcv has nothing to do with exhaust. It takes fumes from teh crank case and recirculates
them into the intake to be burned.

you where thinking egr which is used to lower combustion temps to reduce nox emissions.
 
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