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major power windows problem

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doughboy0032

New member
Hi guys. I have this power window problem I just encountered. One day my widows would not go up or down. I checked the fuse/relay and it was blazing hot. I replaced that...no luck. I then go to get a new power window control and installed that and still no fix. I got it to work only when the lock out switch is on, however no one else can operate their own windows. Occasionally it will work for a few minutes with the l/o on but not for long. I don't have any ideas on what the issue is or a fix. Any ideas or comments.
 


doughboy0032 said:
Hi guys. I have this power window problem I just encountered. One day my widows would not go up or down. I checked the fuse/relay and it was blazing hot. I replaced that...no luck. I then go to get a new power window control and installed that and still no fix. I got it to work only when the lock out switch is on, however no one else can operate their own windows. Occasionally it will work for a few minutes with the l/o on but not for long. I don't have any ideas on what the issue is or a fix. Any ideas or comments.
Click to expand...


just ran into almost the same problem with my regal, all 3 pass doors window switched were dead, the driver side master switches worked all the windows just fine, tuned out the lock out switch was dead.

apparently the child locks switch controls the power to all the passenger doors windows.
 
I tried another master switch and it was the same way. If its quiet enough you can hear the relay trip and the wires get warm instantly. When it actually rolls up for a split second its super super slow. Then when you turn on the window locks every window rolls up but of course only from the drivers side.
 
The slow motion of the window could be due to an aging/tired/defective motor, or it could be due to friction in the regulator mechanism and/or the glass guides. The heat is being generated because the excess friction is "over-loading" the motor. In turn, that will cause the thermal overload protection (on the motor) to trip and the motor won't resume operation until it cools down enough to reset the thermal protection device.

By "power window control", do you mean you replaced the complete motor/cable/guide assembly? If so, it is possible that the glass alignment or guides are not properly set, or the vertical guide is not properly aligned to the glass motion, causing too much drag on the glass.You need to find the cause of that friction and eliminate it. It could be due to any portion of the glass lift and guide system, including the door header seals, guide channel(s) or the alignment of the lift guide to the glass.

As for the electrical part of your question; attached is a scan of the power window wiring diagram from the FSM.
Power to all passenger position windows from the lock-out switch. If the windows all work, but ONLY from the driver's position, you probably have a bad lock-out switch OR an open circuit in the 12V feed. (Dark blue wire, Pin D on the Master (Driver's) switch).
Based on your comments regarding the lock-out switch, I think everything is working properly (electrically), but something is interfering with the glass motion.
HTH
JoeT


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The slow motion happens when the lockout switch(button) is in the unlock position. Before the wires and the relay gets hot, the windows window only on the drivers side will roll up but very very slow and only about 3-4 inches then the relay trips. It then will cycle on and off until I put the lockout switch(button) back into the locked position. Then all the windows move normal speed and and no heating of the wires. Only problem because the switch is locked no one but the driver side controls will work.
I tried a different window switch module(the one that controls all 4 windows and the lock out and it was the exact same issue. All windows work from drivers side switch with lock out on however none of the other doors can use their own controls. As u turn it off the drivers window only will move for a split few seconds and slow and then the wires get hot then the relay starts tripping.
 


Maybe try a new motor maybe its getting caught up on the inside and causing a short I dunno just another sugestion I actually have a couple motors for sale let me know
 
doughboy,
Got it!. If the motion is smooth when the lockout is on, then there is probably no problem in the motors or mechanisms.
I'd be looking for a bad connection or a badly frayed wire in the harness between the driver's door switch and the rest of the switches. I don't think you will find any ground problems because the ground locations/wires are common whether you are using the Master switch or the door switches.
Pay particular attention to the areas where the harness passes from the driver's door into the body and the splices, located under the carpet.

If you've got an infrared thermometer,you can scan along the harnesses and the connections to find any hot spots.
Good luck!
 
I'm having somewhat of a similar problem,my rear passenger window will not go down, using that switch, but the drivers rear works fine,if I use the main switch,it will go down with no problems,then if I use the switch on the rear door it goes right up with no problem,the main switch and that rear switch have been replaced.Any suggestions?
 
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