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6* of kr still

blknbstd

blknbstd

New member
I just got my plog in an still see a peak of 6*kr and 2-3* at part throttle, and its about 89 out right now at 7pm what could i do to lessen this i have a 3.6 i wanna install but would rather fix my kr first. i have 605's in could i do 104s without the pulley? or give me some ideas.. Once i save up im gonna do water/meth but it not in the budget yet

MODS:::: PLOG & rear pem, 3in dp highflow cat, 3in catback, a k&n cai and 605's
 


Clean your MAF and throttlebody. Not kidding. Was seeing 2-3* flash knock on a gtp before the MAF was cleaned, and it went away. Oh, and make sure you've got those manifolds tightened down well and you have no vacuum leaks.

DO NOT add the pulley before you've got everything straightened out.
 


SlowNA06 said:
It's not worth it to pay for a tune before dropping the pulley.
Click to expand...

Who says? I've tuned completely stock cars and had some very happy owners afterwards. There are differences from paying for a 1.0 pcm or mail order tune and getting a custom tune.
 
He's got the pulley in hand and intends to pulley-down. I'd do a tune with the pulley, but it's probably a good idea to figure out what's borked before increasing boost.
 
A tune is hands down the best thing for these cars.

I don't know why people would want to figure out the 6* of KR first before doing ANYTHING...even if the pulley drop was in mind...tossing on that 3.6" with a few degrees of KR left over...it'll be slower than the stock pullied car with all of the KR fixed...especially after 60 MPH.
 
Ok, so one im gonna check on the false knock issue tomorrow, i have rotated my factory mounts and have shorter dog bones. Any pics on where to look or mainly what to look for?

Also i just cleaned the maf an throttlebody before the plog.. I have factory wires is that an issue there.? I dont have any misfires tho..

could it be a vac leak, i see no lines broken but ive heard the bypass can cause this..
 
bluegtp91 said:
A tune is hands down the best thing for these cars.

I don't know why people would want to figure out the 6* of KR first before doing ANYTHING...even if the pulley drop was in mind...tossing on that 3.6" with a few degrees of KR left over...it'll be slower than the stock pullied car with all of the KR fixed...especially after 60 MPH.
Click to expand...

Thats why id like to at least pin point where and why i have this much kr, the factory kr should be gone by now with wat ive done on the 3.8 pulley, at least id hope it would
 


Like I said, you can keep chasing this knock around or get it tuned out, you've done the basic stuff that should decrease knock, but there are a few things in the stock pcm that may be causing this knock as well as adjusting the maf table for your flow mods. Most stock cars have 6*+ of knock and after a basic tune without changing pulleys or doing anything at all physically with the car you can add another 2* over stock timing safely without knock.

Some things you can't fix with just a wrench on a fuel injected car, if anything for now, i would unplug the battery to get your fuel trims to reset then check again after a day or after the fuel trims are re-learned which may take an hour and multiple restarts.
 
Ok, i did remove the battery and the Kr is not as bad it mainly part throttle kr and only 1-3* of kr at wot... but here as of now outside temp is 100 so thats not helping and last night i went out side of town and temps were around 75 it barely had kr at wot and pull better than before.!
 
How many miles are on your spark plugs? If they're coppers, they're only good for 15,000 miles, tops, before you're likely to get problems.
 


If you like to change sparkplugs, use coppers. If you dread it, use iridiums.

Did you take your front plugs out before swapping the manifold? It's possible you cracked a plug.
 
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