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wheel bearing

M

mosley

New member
my wheel bearing went from good to bad over night now you can hear a loud grinding sound from the left front one i have never done a front wheel bearing and i was wondering what all i will need is there any thing certain i need to remember and where to get the cheapest wheel bearing
 


mosley said:
my wheel bearing went from good to bad over night now you can hear a loud grinding sound from the left front one i have never done a front wheel bearing and i was wondering what all i will need is there any thing certain i need to remember and where to get the cheapest wheel bearing
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rockauto.com

nothing special. take the brakes off. 4 bolts behind the nuckle and your axle nut. easy enought to change
 
Don't go cheap, you will end up paying for it in the end. These cars love wheel bearings, i'm on my 3rd one on one side so far.
 
I just replaced one last month at a shop. I tried to do it myself but I couldnt get the axle nut off. The socket was 20-25 bucks (1 1/8 1 1/4 cant remeber) and i stood/bounced/jumped on it with a 2 foot 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (20 bucks) and it didnt budge. Unless you have air tools i would have a shop do it. They charged 65 bucks for labor (so really just 20 bucks more than the tools you need), its done right and torqued ( i watched them), and with a 1 year warranty. Cant beat that. And if you want to save 20 bucks just dont go to Mc-D two times this month and you just saved it. Im all about "do it yourself" but some things are just worth the little extra.
 
The correct socket is a 36mm if stock, 34mm if aftermarket typically. Then you'll need a 1/2" (not a 13mm) and a little persuasion. It's not too bad unless they fight light Shaggy's. Then you might pop the ball joint and pull the axle to get a better shot at it.
 


FormulaW66 said:
I just replaced one last month at a shop. I tried to do it myself but I couldnt get the axle nut off. The socket was 20-25 bucks (1 1/8 1 1/4 cant remeber) and i stood/bounced/jumped on it with a 2 foot 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (20 bucks) and it didnt budge. Unless you have air tools i would have a shop do it. They charged 65 bucks for labor (so really just 20 bucks more than the tools you need), its done right and torqued ( i watched them), and with a 1 year warranty. Cant beat that. And if you want to save 20 bucks just dont go to Mc-D two times this month and you just saved it. Im all about "do it yourself" but some things are just worth the little extra.
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i did one on a 97 explorer with a basic set of tools(others were at work) and a 1 1/4 socket and a piece of pipe. it can be done and is easy to do. you just needed a longer breaker bar.
 
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