• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Two Morimoto projectors one cup...uh...I mean headlight...headlight

Back to halogen fogs??? i think you should get some 3000k HID's and have actual "fog" lights. I love mine and will definately keep them. Only anout $40 on ebay for ballasts and bulbs( work fine)
 


ya, thats what i am running currently(6 ballasts). I just like the option to have the actual (yellow) fog lights. I do get fog and snow quite often though and can put them to good use. Oh, well. Just my opinion. Your setup is still awesome
 
Will do, I'll have this set I'm working on done tomorrow. I'm going to be purchasing a better camera this 3.2 mp 1983 camera doesn't cut it when you're trying to get quality light shots.

I've got a picture of the hi beams on a building however the set the picture was taken from didn't have all the cross beam removed. Also the frosting on the 97-03 gp housings creates two bumps at the cutoff if you don't remove the cross beam and have the projectors basically pointing straight out of the headlight. The housing isn't tall enough when pointing in to clear the frost where the lense isn't clear.

I want to add this pic is with ddm 35 wt H1 bulbs. Morimoto bulbs are significantly better quality! My headlight adjusters on those brackets were also broken thanks to the body shop that put them in when I did the gtx hood.

DSC00430.jpg


Hi beams in my garage, garage is narrow so hard to get the full picture of how they'd look on the road. These are the only pics of bi-xenon output I have at the moment.
DSC00434.jpg
 
:th_stirthepot:Looks like a torchure chamber. Will be looking foward to your new pics.

it puts the lotion on its skin. LOL.............sorry
 
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Anyone else get sick of typing. My girlfriend says between this site and my ar-15 forums i don't pay enough attention to her. Oh well, just do what i enjoy. We need voice over IP to make it easier. Guess others could not follow it though.
 
zx7r4u2nv said:
Anyone else get sick of typing. My girlfriend says between this site and my ar-15 forums i don't pay enough attention to her. Oh well, just do what i enjoy. We need voice over IP to make it easier. Guess others could not follow it though.
Click to expand...

LOL, can you imagine what a nightmare voice over IP would be on this site?
 
cleangtp said:
Will do, I'll have this set I'm working on done tomorrow. I'm going to be purchasing a better camera this 3.2 mp 1983 camera doesn't cut it when you're trying to get quality light shots.

I've got a picture of the hi beams on a building however the set the picture was taken from didn't have all the cross beam removed. Also the frosting on the 97-03 gp housings creates two bumps at the cutoff if you don't remove the cross beam and have the projectors basically pointing straight out of the headlight. The housing isn't tall enough when pointing in to clear the frost where the lense isn't clear.

I want to add this pic is with ddm 35 wt H1 bulbs. Morimoto bulbs are significantly better quality! My headlight adjusters on those brackets were also broken thanks to the body shop that put them in when I did the gtx hood.

DSC00430.jpg


Hi beams in my garage, garage is narrow so hard to get the full picture of how they'd look on the road. These are the only pics of bi-xenon output I have at the moment.
DSC00434.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pics. I look forward to more highbeam pics.
 


So one of the most important things to keep in mind to keep these retros waterproof is to seal up the back. The lowbeam portion of the headlight gets saturated as water will seep in through the channels between the hood and fenders and it drains right on top of the lowbeam.

back2.jpg


rearseal3.jpg


rearseal2.jpg


rearseal1.jpg


Permasex.jpg


What I did was to wrap the back of the projector in foil duct tape to close the gap between the projector and the reflector. I then put the stock rubber grommet over this. I sealed this grommet into place using Permatex black silicone adhesive to make sure the grommets stay seated in their place. I put foil tape of the grommets just to keep them in place as the silicone dries. I took the tape off the grommets after 24 hours.

Now, in between the grommet and the back of the projector I put a generous layer of Permatex silicone as well. This completely seals of the back of the headlight from moisture and since the silicone is flexible it will allow the headlight to be adjusted vertically without breaking the adhesive.
 
RedDawnGXP said:
So one of the most important things to keep in mind to keep these retros waterproof is to seal up the back. The lowbeam portion of the headlight gets saturated as water will seep in through the channels between the hood and fenders and it drains right on top of the lowbeam.

back2.jpg


rearseal3.jpg


rearseal2.jpg


rearseal1.jpg


Permasex.jpg


What I did was to wrap the back of the projector in foil duct tape to close the gap between the projector and the reflector. I then put the stock rubber grommet over this. I sealed this grommet into place using Permatex black silicone adhesive to make sure the grommets stay seated in their place. I put foil tape of the grommets just to keep them in place as the silicone dries. I took the tape off the grommets after 24 hours.

Now, in between the grommet and the back of the projector I put a generous layer of Permatex silicone as well. This completely seals of the back of the headlight from moisture and since the silicone is flexible it will allow the headlight to be adjusted vertically without breaking the adhesive.
Click to expand...


You're right RTV or some type of sealant is must for the back of the headlight. I try to be careful and do a nice bead around any suspect areas.

I also use foil tape but only on the projector/shroud. After dremeling there's a pretty nice gap in shroud/projector top and bottom on 97-03 housings where a nasty light could escape filling the capsule with unwanted light.

I've had great luck with no moisture getting in my retrofits, the corners on the other hand have a little more chance of water getting in. They're constructed and sealed terrible. Sometimes after sealing the corners they still get moisture but never the headlight capsules. I think 04+ models have to be a little more careful about sealing the back of the lense because of the channel you spoke of earlier.

I know that when you complete a retro you feel damn good and it makes you want to find an excuse to drive your car. If the wife asks you to go get her a candy bar at 3am in the morning you will do it now :th_laugh-lol2::th_thumbsup-wink:
 


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