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Let there be LIGHT! (Morimoto projector retrofit)

I'm running the 35 watt. One of these is plenty bright to drive with at night. It took me a lot of time to get them to my perfectionist standard but Well worth my time.
 


I believe it was around that if you already got hids. I got the projectors and harness for 150. Mod time varies, it took me several hours and days to get these finished but I ran into some problems. I can try to help with any questions you got.

Low beam
Mobile Photobucket

High beam
Mobile Photobucket
 
Mobile URLs, yuck.
Here, I'll put your full-size pics up.
2011-01-06_17-12-16_919.jpg

2011-01-06_17-13-46_361.jpg
 


If you are planning on doing on this and you have oem replacement headlight get ready for a real trip getting the lens off, the sealant used on mine was like rubber cement. it took five hours for 2 people to paint the inside of mine.
im not sure if its only the brand i have, but beware...

my brand is TYC btw
 
If you are planning on doing on this and you have oem replacement headlight get ready for a real trip getting the lens off, the sealant used on mine was like rubber cement. it took five hours for 2 people to paint the inside of mine.
im not sure if its only the brand i have, but beware...

my brand is TYC btw

That's why you put them in the oven at 150 degrees for about 7-8 minutes and pull the lense right off!
 
That's why you put them in the oven at 150 degrees for about 7-8 minutes and pull the lense right off!
i know....
any more heat would melt the housing, what im sying is that the glue used on oem replacement ones is different.

my one gm original light was a breeze. the oem one was a *****
 
I put my OEMs (stockers) in the oven at 230*. Still took ****ing forever to get them apart. Seriously that black sealant is a *****, I'm thinking about getting rid of it altogether to make headlight modding easier on myself.
 


My oem replacent lights were Horrible to get apart. I had to put them in at 275 for ten minutes to get the adhesive to soften at all. The housing took that heat fine. I'm working on doing this retrofit now. I hit a few snags but the way I'm mounting them should look much more oem than the way it's done here, and I won't have to adjust to remove the cross beam. I'm just waiting for either a warm day, or to finally get my garage heated finally, plus a day off work for once. I'll post up a how to of how I did it and my results when im done.
 
So, if I already have a hi/lo 9007 kit, i can just buy a set of hi/lo h1 bulbs right? Or can I use a the 9007 in the Mori housing?
 
So, if I already have a hi/lo 9007 kit, i can just buy a set of hi/lo h1 bulbs right? Or can I use a the 9007 in the Mori housing?
No, if you're retrofitting, you only need a single xenon bulb. Projectors have a cutoff shield which moves to allow more light to shine for a high beam. the high beam kicks on from the wiring harness.




Op, how did you fit the mini gatlings? When I tried to fit mine, they didn't even come close to fitting. I had to cut them down and in the end they just ended up breaking because I cut too much off. Gonna use trimmed down e46 shrouds when it warms up and I get around to doing this.


has anyone found where I can get actual GM replacement lights? Since they will be much higher quality than aftermarket and easier to work with.


Edit: Ok I found genuine replacements on PFYC, but holy sh!t! They're $124 per side.
 


do you have pix of these lighting up the road? Also you said they have H1 bulbs, how do you have hi beams? arent the h1's low beams? Pix of hi and lows would be greatly appreciated. My high beams just straight up suck with my spyders.
 
do you have pix of these lighting up the road? Also you said they have H1 bulbs, how do you have hi beams? arent the h1's low beams? Pix of hi and lows would be greatly appreciated. My high beams just straight up suck with my spyders.

DSC00407.jpg


Bi-xenon uses H1 when you click brights on that shield on top of solenoid drops to change beam pattern
 
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