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Serpentine/Tensioner Pulley/T-Stat HELP

Jcal1120

Jcal1120

New member
Long story short, I guess I had a shotty tensioner pulley and it basically freyed my serpentine to crap and it snapped. Now, I drove and pulled over many times to keep the car cool enough to get home.

So, got a new belt and pulley, got all of that put back together. Looks and sounds good aside from the burning fluids I spilled, but after about 10 minutes, my fan kicked in, which it usually didn't because my car never gets that hot, and the temp gauge neared the red zone on the gauge cluster.

Basically, what should I look for to see where the engine wouldn't be getting coolant from? My reservoir is at a good level, hoses look good, no leaks, so why would it be overheating now? Maybe a bad thermostat?

It is an 04 GT 3.8L
 


Likely because the car got hotter than usual from driving without a waterpump to circulate the coolant, the hot coolant may have melted and distorted the wax pellet that basically controls the opening and closeing of the thermostat. I would replace the thermostat and see if that solves your problem. In anycase, when a vehicle gets hotter than it usually does for longer than a couple of minutes, I like to replace the t-stat.


Jay
 


So, if you live in an area where you get snow, and NEED the heat, like me, you might want to run with the 180.

Jay
 
if you go to a cooler one you will need to get the PCM programmed to turn the fan on sooner.. with out getting that reset it wont matter if you go lower or go stock.
 
Thanks Jay for the help, pretty basic stuff, but I'm just getting into all this for the first time.

Two more questions then, now that means that the fan will kick in at a cooler temp as well if it gets hot enough? Because I hate hearing that damn thing...

And better to roll with the 180 or a 195? I do live in MN, so quite snowy and cold.
 


Ballin00gtp said:
if you go to a cooler one you will need to get the PCM programmed to turn the fan on sooner.. with out getting that reset it wont matter if you go lower or go stock.
Click to expand...

Right, sorry. I forgot we are dealing with electronic fans here....Im used to my Viscous (fluid fan) on my 4.3L. We can change the t-stat without an issue.
Sorry for the mis-information.


Jay
 
Get a stock 195 degree. Even with my mods, I run a 195 in the winter and a 180 in the summer. If you run a 160, prepare for rapid carbon build up.
 


We've got an issue...

TStat fixed the overheating problem, drove my car for the first time today since all this, and tranny is being a red headed step child.

Really hard shifts, and almost wants to skip going into second half the time unless I lay back on the gas around the time I know it should shift. What would be causing this? Maybe from my engine getting so hot, it burned some tranny fluid and it's screwing with it? Ideas anyone?
 
On start-up I get this nasty whirring and grinding noise coming from the engine compartment. It's hard to pinpoint the noise but it's obviously something with bearings going bad. I'm not sure if it's the water pump, the A/C belt tensioner pulley, accessory belt tensioner pulley or steering pump or possibly the alternator. It kinda sounds like it's coming from the alternator but I don't think those make this type of noise when going bad and I have not had any power issues. Any thoughts on what is the likely culprit of this noise? Without an educated guess, I was thinking about going through a process of elimination by first replacing both tensioner pulley and the belts.
 
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