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How To: Install 1.8 Roller Rockers on L67

Mitchstrp

Mitchstrp

New member
Tools you will need:
7mm
8mm
10mm
13mm
15mm
Hex socket
engine assembly lube
torque wrench
roller rockers
valve cover gaskets
install kit

Pop your hood, this is what you should see.

first things first, disconnect the battery and remove all both the belts.
photo-6.jpg


second remove the ICM wire harness (under the coil packs) then start removing the s/c tensioner and idler pulley.
build1.jpg

After removing tensioner pulley there should be a long stud
then above the tensioner there is a stud that has a ground on it, its the ICM ground, remove the stud.
Then remove the stud where the tensioner pulley was.
Next there is a stud that is held in by a 15 mm and you will need a very deep well socket it is located in between the tensioner and idler pulley.
Once you have that last stud out. the entire bracket will just pull right out. Now you can access the front valve cover.
Remove the bolts and gromets and pull out the valve cover.
You should now be looking at something like this.
photo-5.jpg

Now with your 10mm remove all the old rockers and pushrods and the pedistal.
Now install your Yella Terra (or other brand) pedistal with the logo facing you.
Put the black spacers in place (they insert in the pedistal) then put the push rod where you removed the previous one then with the round side down place the rocker on the spacer and put a comp cam bolt in the rocker and hand tighten, once hand tightened adjust the rocker so that the roller tip is perfectly sitting on the spring and that the pushrod is under the proper side of the rocker.
Do this for all the rockers and make sure that before you install the pushrods and roller rockers that they are well lubed with some engine assembly lube or soak them over night in cam assembly lube.
When your done with the front this is what it should look like.
photo-4.jpg


Now onto the back! :)

First ratchet the motor forward.
Then remove the rear engine pull bracket with a 13 mm its only two bolts. After that remove the alternator bracket also a 13 mm i believe.
Now your ready to get dirty. lol.
Take off all the bolts and grommets then start remove the old rockers and pushrods, do the back just like you did the front.
Thats all there is to it.

final steps:
Torque all of rocker bolts to 25 ft lbs then assemble just as you took apart. After you have reinstalled everything you can top off the front valve cover with a little oil.

build2.jpg


When you start the car you may get a low oil light but it should go off after a minute or so.

If I missed anything feel free to let me know and ill add it.
Hopes this helps
 
Last edited by a moderator:


It's an expression...

meaning...

I'm not sure why you have a low oil light...because 99% of the time when the dummy light comes on...the motor = no good.
 


thanks for the writeup! Rockers will be my next upgrade and this has come up helpful. Sometimes these step by step tutorials with pictures are hard to find. thanks!
 
no problem its not hard at all. once you get the covers off its very easy to figure out and they come with directions they suck but they do come with directions lol
 
Nice write up.. Only comment I have is that I'd never suggest putting on a valve train mod of any sort w/o changing springs. That's me though.
 
1.8 is for the stock springs, you can even go up to 1.84:th_sign-noway: on the stock springs any higher and youll have valve floating if your shift points are above 6000 IIRC but mines a daily driver and didnt really want to go full out, just lookin for a little bit a fun even if the gains are noticable.
 


nope, go to zzp or wbody store and the most the stock springs can hold are the 1.84 roller rockers and 1.9 causes valve floating on the stock springs.
 
shifting over 6k, but with that being said, i would upgrade them no matter what if i was going to do 1.9 just because if you do get a tune where your shift points are 6200 youll have to go back in and add springs, and since your already in there why not drop them in, its not too hard.
 


Right.. you "can" use stock springs on a lot of things. Basically if coil bind isn't an issue and you don't float, then it's considered a "can do". I'm more on the side of safety when I say...I wouldn't. ZZP says the VS (valvetrain safe) cam is fine with stock springs. Yet a lot of guys I've known have broken springs with it, without going crazy on shift points. ZZP will always say installer error when anything breaks.

Springs are cheap insurance against dropping a valve.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Right.. you "can" use stock springs on a lot of things. Basically if coil bind isn't an issue and you don't float, then it's considered a "can do". I'm more on the side of safety when I say...I wouldn't. ZZP says the VS (valvetrain safe) cam is fine with stock springs. Yet a lot of guys I've known have broken springs with it, without going crazy on shift points. ZZP will always say installer error when anything breaks.

Springs are cheap insurance against dropping a valve.
Click to expand...


very very true and enlighting. Ive heard all about broken springs and read about valve floating, the only thing with me is, mines a DD, when i did my install it was 20 degrees outside so i didnt feel like pulling the entire SC and LIM so i could change the springs so i decided with the 1.8's, plus if a spring does fail i will do a full replacement build, but i agree with you 100 percent on you should upgrade springs its deffantly a good idea just gives you something to not have to worry about.
 
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