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swap l67 for l32?

once you spin a bearing or anything on the bottom end is consistently knocking then the motor is done. you need a rebuild or a new short block.
 


Update! pulled the pan today. turns out my bearings are fine. pulled some caps an checked um. prob is actually the chain tensioner!
 
Speedemongtp, just a quick ressurection of your thread here. I was reading about your early concerns that the knock you were hearing, (which would disappear under load) turned out to be the chain tensioner (I assume you mean't the timing chain tensioner, right?). That said, is it possible the particular knocking sound (that your car was making) may have sounded, to someone else with a "less trained ear" (like myself), like perhaps a LOUD lifter tick, from the TOP? IDK Thoughts?
 
Well actually this is a very old thread that was not actually updated at all. My problem was actually a spun main bearing. Yes i was referring to the timing chain tensioner and yes it was broken and worn down however it was not the real problem. Your problem though sounds like something else. It may be a bearing, lifter, injector, or even an exhaust leak. Without hearing what your hearing its hard to be able to know what direction to send you. Your best bet is find someone in your area who would be able to tell or post a high sound quality video on here so that myself and others can hear it and send you in the right direction.
 
Thanks Speedemongtp I will take your advice and get it checked furthur. Sorry, for the post in the old thread but it really sounded pertainent.
 


I am running an L32 in my 98 GTP and love it. Got it for $1100 from Morad with 70,xxx on it, no complaints. If I had more money I would've gone L26 build but money was indeed an issue.
 
Why would an L26 be MORE of a cost issue than an L32? L26 was built specifically for NA 3800 V6, wasn't it? I would have thought it would be the other way around. Am I missing something? Not trying to be a pain. Don't get me wrong, I am glad it is working out for you and that you are happy with the results. Just asking.
 
The L26 should have been cheaper than a L32...especially if you paid $1,100...I'd hope it was fully assembled. The L26 would have made way more power...but would have REQUIRED headers and a custom tune.
 
If I would've got the L26 it would have been cheaper for the motor but I'm not going to stick an N/A in my car, I would've top swapped it which alone would make it more than my L32 cost and would've also required what blue said thus making it well more expensive.

Yes it was full assembled.
 
Thanks Blue & Fottballplaya, I appreciate the explaination, sorry to be a pain, just wanted to get it straight in my head, got it. Again thanks guys.
 


footballplaya3k said:
If I would've got the L26 it would have been cheaper for the motor but I'm not going to stick an N/A in my car, I would've top swapped it which alone would make it more than my L32 cost and would've also required what blue said thus making it well more expensive.

Yes it was full assembled.
Click to expand...

If you know how to shop...I could have a top swapped and cammed for INSTALLED for $1,100. Granted the work is done in house...so we don't pay other people for labor. So...I'd say...

$300 for L26/L36 short block
$200-ish for a used cam
$220 for Speed Daddy headers
And another $200 for the blower and all the other top swap crap from a junkyard....and maybe another $100 for gaskets and fluids...but I'm still under $1,100...not by much...but you get the idea. It's doable...and makes TONS more power.
 
Morad FTL (sorry, more than one bad experience buying from him)

Bought my L32 out of an 06 GT with 60k for $900 w/ 1 year waranty through a local salvage yard. Been checking around lately just for curiosity sake, seeing L32's going for as cheap as $600 with low miles. So, that being said, there's no real bang for your buck loss going either way. It's just how much work you want to put into it, L32 is drop in aside from an adapter plate for the TB and fuel rails. L36/L26 top swapped will more than likely cost more to start you up with FI, but will have more power per pulley size based on compression so it's really win/win. Either route you take, if you plan on modding, you're going to be forking a hefty amount of change
 
Morad is good for small things but, when it comes to motors/top end parts...no thanks. I paid 1,100 for a genV top swap kit, parts were in good shape but, i wouldn't do that again. LKQ or a local junk yard.
 
Ya LKQ is who i used to use for local stuff. I forgot completely about them... Thanks 99prixGT i need to call those guys up...
 
yeah, LKQ FTMFW! Helps that they have locations all over the country and can ship them to a closer location to you with no extra charge
 


I'm not saying I got a good deal or anything but I am happy with my Gen V. I would've loved to do that blue but I was just trying to get it done ASAP. And no way in hell would I attempt a cam install lol.
 
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