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Lawngoose's Replacement Engine Advice/Question Thread

Lawngoose

Lawngoose

New member
So, I spun a bearing on my L67...and need a replacement engine on a budget. <800 if possible.

Some of the knowledgeable guys on here recommended me to check out L26's since the rods are better..etc.

Questions that have come to mind.

  • Would my s1x cam/105# be ok for this application?
  • Should I buy a complete block? w/heads, etc... or just the actual block... and swap my stuff over? Everything swap over fine?

Any insight and removal advice is appreciated!
 


If your heads are fine...which...if you spun a rod bearing you should be...I'd try and find a L32...and toss your heads with the #105's on it. Or a L67...up to you. L26 is higher compression so your going to need to go way higher on the pulley size...you'd be lucky if you got away with a 3.5" on that setup.

As for removal...one thing to keep in mind...pay attention to the knock sensors because it is pretty easy to rip those wires clean out. Also...if you've never had the transmission out...have fun with the b1tch bolt...I'd go through the passenger side wheel well with a good 2 feet of extensions.
 
bluegtp91 said:
If your heads are fine...which...if you spun a rod bearing you should be...I'd try and find a L32...and toss your heads with the #105's on it. Or a L67...up to you. L26 is higher compression so your going to need to go way higher on the pulley size...you'd be lucky if you got away with a 3.5" on that setup.

As for removal...one thing to keep in mind...pay attention to the knock sensors because it is pretty easy to rip those wires clean out. Also...if you've never had the transmission out...have fun with the b1tch bolt...I'd go through the passenger side wheel well with a good 2 feet of extensions.
Click to expand...

I have pulled the engine and tranny out of the top. We left the ***** bolt out last go around. I found a complete 70k L26 shipped for 500. L32 and L67's seem to have higher miles and cost more.

Part of me is thinking to just reuse my headers and throw the s/c on it. As much as I want to reuse my cam and springs... I might just sell them.
 
what is with this crazy throwing of the bearings?

I vote n/a block + headers + blower. it'll be quite a bit slower but it'd still be decently quickish.
 


You dont need to spin the blower as fast to make the same amount of power on a higher compression build(less heat at the outlet, more efficient on the m90). Look at all the faster m90 cars.....there almost all high compression builds. A 3.5 pulley is making about what a gtp makes on a 3.3 3.2 setup. So keep that in mind as you do your Supporting mods setup. Also the higher compression engines (atleast on mine) prefers more timing then boost.


Get the block if there willing to just sell the block. Slap your cam and heads and blower on. Start with a 3.6 pulley and work your way down as fit.
 
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Yep you need to run your old motors heads and LIM and Blower. Cant use the l26's because of the reasons Matt's outlined
 
Matt outlined something right? Huh...lol

Anyways...yes...I'd grab the L26...you've just gotta compinsate for the higher compression...meaning headers are a must...and while your blower is off if you haven't done it I'd port it and the TB too. I'd start on a stock sized pulley and go down from there but I don't see any issue with you running a 3.5" with a cam and headers.
 


I THINK...since its a L26 your supposed to use the L26 flexplate since they are balanced differently...but I'm not 100% sure...
 


no, you need to use the flex plate that matches up to your transmission. so youd have to reuse your flex plate.
 
Talked with Dave @ TEP. The L26 flywheel will work for my existing TQ converter. However, I do have an extra N/A TQ converter that came with my tranny last January.

So far I need the following:
- Head Gaskets (most likely the GM ones)
- Lim Gasket? (Maybe...mine has like 10k on it)
- 3.6 Pulley
- Flexplate bolts

So all in all, I should have the engine removed by this weeked. And I am hoping to have the replacement in by the following week. Really depends on work and if I can get some extra bodies around to help. I would rather take longer getting it right...then having to do it over.

Thx everyone for your replies and support!
 
I would get a whole engine gasket hit and replace them all. Nothings worse than having a leaky engine. Also you need head bolts or studs, new rocker bolts if you do not have reusable ones,flex plate bolts, crank bolt, cam bolt. coolant extra oil to flush it out new plugs.
 
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