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my scan



What was the temp out side when you took this? I am having the same problem as well but it only does it when it is 85* +.
 
that doesnt look false, but it doesnt look like something to really worry about either. to me it seems like you havent pushed out the limits on the transmission stuff yet so its still pulling timing to save the transmission around shifts. you only went WOT for like 5 seconds and it was a 4-2 downshift.

for a real scan: stop. slowly accelerate, ease into the throttle little by little until you go WOT, DO NOT LET IT SHIFT INTO SECOND UNTIL YOU ARE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR. go all the way through second gear, let if shift into third, then back out of the pedal. this will give us a more lengthy overall scan of what your car is doing.
 
From my tuning experience... gradually go into wot... the reason is b/c you want to make sure your fuel trims are right before hitting PE. Overall your fuel trims look good..but you need to post a longer scan.
 
ok, ill get a better scan today. I don't understand why but, sometimes when easing into the throttle to get a long second gear scan, going wot, my ltft goes to -11.5 and stft at 0?

to shawn- it was around 67*last night when i did this scan.
 


99prixgt said:
ok, ill get a better scan today. I don't understand why but, sometimes when easing into the throttle to get a long second gear scan, going wot, my ltft goes to -11.5 and stft at 0?

to shawn- it was around 67*last night when i did this scan.
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The main overall idea of maf tuning is to see what your LTFT's are before hitting PE (locking in at 0 on WOT). The last value you see before the trims go to 0 is actually what your running...so its not 0...but it says it. I dont even look at STFT's.
 
Lawngoose said:
The main overall idea of maf tuning is to see what your LTFT's are before hitting PE (locking in at 0 on WOT). The last value you see before the trims go to 0 is actually what your running...so its not 0...but it says it. I dont even look at STFT's.
Click to expand...

ok, so the last value before pe mode, whats a good value? do i want it to be close to 0 or as close to 0 as possible?

when i get my w/b hooked up, hopefully next week or so, would i even have to look at ltft?
 
99prixgt said:
ok, so the last value before pe mode, whats a good value? do i want it to be close to 0 or as close to 0 as possible?

when i get my w/b hooked up, hopefully next week or so, would i even have to look at ltft?
Click to expand...

You want it to be -1 (slightly rich)...I dunno about the w/b tuning process...since I dont have one yet.
 
actually, ive heard you should have it at +1 or so because you dont want the car to be pulling fuel when youre hard on the throttle, but you want it to be adding fuel just in case.
 


honestly the scan looks pretty good. you might be running a tad bit rich, but you might also need that in order to run knock free. the only point which you actually knock is when it shifts from 2-3, which i think to be torque management. the car will pull a little timing to save the transmission at shifts unless you push the thresholds way out to make it not do that.

try leaning it out so youre seeing a little lower o2s (980 seems high considering i liked to see 940 with my car). then see what the car is doing.
 
Bio248 said:
honestly the scan looks pretty good. you might be running a tad bit rich, but you might also need that in order to run knock free. the only point which you actually knock is when it shifts from 2-3, which i think to be torque management. the car will pull a little timing to save the transmission at shifts unless you push the thresholds way out to make it not do that.

try leaning it out so youre seeing a little lower o2s (980 seems high considering i liked to see 940 with my car). then see what the car is doing.
Click to expand...

ill give that a shot, i thought 980 was too high. I was adding to the "base PE" table with powertuner. Is their a better way to lean out the 02's?
 
You want cruise LFT's Between +3 and -3 during cruise. During deceleration the car will lean and depending on mods it can well out of the plus 3 range. Some cars will max 16.4 on deceleration(not a vac leak) this will not throw off the Enrichment locking. Loooking at your scan the 02's are kinda rich and timing is horrible. Low timing will result is High exhaust temps and can damage the engine quickly on long WOT pulls. You appear to be running to small a pulley. Fat 02's low timing and still getting some KR. I dont know your mods. If you are l36 compression ive found that less boost and more timing is the ticket for those setups where as lowercompressions like boost and can get away with the lower timings. If your not running ATLEAST 16 degrees you need to pulley up. FWIW I run a 3.4 on high compression with 19WOT timing and no knock with 02's in the 915 range(intercooled). Also invest in a Wideband it will make life easier. The easiest way to adjust fuel tims is by adjusting the maf Hz in the Maff table
 
okay, i did a scan with my aem w/b. Leaning into the throttle i found i was getting 17.x+ a/f, and hitting 10.5 wot. I decided my tune was soo far off, that i started from scratch. I now have a stock 99 gtp bin with zzp's LQ4 maf table, and 04 gtp gfs table. My a/f is now reading 11.7 wot and pretty consistent 14-15 range cruising and 14.6-14.8 idle, which is a big improvement from before. The cars 02's are around 920-940 range but im getting a good amount of knock, going wot i hit most of 7*. The car is commanding quite a bit of timing, im going to try and lower parts of the gfs table and see what happens. Is their an easy way to know what mg's wot is?

also car seems to be misfiring alot at idle, should i move to 104's? what should they be gapped at?
 


Id stick with 103's. If your lowering timing you need to go to the last row in the table and make adjustments there.
 
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