Will this combo work for mid 13's??

[TDCRacing]

1999 gtp,hp tuners,3.2,wrapped crossover,ss p-log,ported rear stock mani,autolite 130's,drilled 160*,4'' jmb fwi,ported sc,ported throttlebody,and 1.9 modified stock rockers.


so will it


From my experience (no personal,just from reading/questions/knowing my car and how it acts) I belive i could run 13.5 at least but will still have some kr. Probably about 3 degrees max.This is the most that i would want to do to my car(as far as mods go) besids a short stack intercooler.Wich would then get rid of any kr.


And what is a hp estimate on this combo? 300?


Just wanted some ''previouse experience'' opinions

 

[fst]

if you're getting a max of 3* of KR, i'd pulley up and use the 3.4 instead and add timing. i ran a 13.6@102 with and b4 the 1.9 rockers with 20-24* of timing. grant it i used alky, but with the proper tune and fueling u can hit mid 13s with the 3.4 pulley and even use the AL104s instead of the AL103s

 

[TDCRacing]

ok cool thanks for the reply.you have a dhp tuner huh?


anybody else for some imput?

 

[Going Too Phast]

I don't have previous experience, but I have some input. Your planned mods is basically what I am going to end up with. I have a ported blower and TB sitting here waiting to go on. Anyway, I'd forget the 3.2 pulley. 3.3 will be really pushing it. I emailed Overkill and he suggested I go with a 3.3 first and check KR, then maybe go up to a 3.4. So I'll pass that along to you. To run a 3.2 safely you will probably need (1) intercooler, or (2) headers, or (3) a cam.

Get a 180* T-stat instead of the 160*. If you end up with 3* of timing retarded you will probably go slower than a 3.4 and no KR. :th_doh:

And like fst said, a rocker'd 3.4 GTP with the necessary supporting mods is usually good for 13.6 in the 1/4. I've seen a few people that have hit that exact ET. With the ported blower and TB you could probably knock off that extra tenth. That is just my opinion, so take it for what it is worth. :th_peaceout:

 

[UR LOSN]

heck, an Intake, 3.4 pulley, 1.9rr, PCM tune, PEM's, 3" DP....is good for a high 13....and you have more than that.

 

[TDCRacing]

Get a 180* T-stat instead of the 160*. If you end up with 3* of timing retarded you will probably go slower than a 3.4 and no KR. :th_doh:

:th_scratchhead:well i already ordered it along with everything else from zzp...explain to me why you would think a 180 would be better? i asked this question before and someone told me if i get a 160 it will not let my gtp go into closed loop thus dumping fuel and ignoring the 02 sensors...i know that most stock gtp's enter closed loop at about 60* ect temp...but any way a 160 should run at about 170-175 at highway speeds...it's hot here in georgia so the heater not being hot enough is not a problem


but yea i hear ya on the timing retard and the pulley and i do appreciate your advice/input

 

[IndeedSS]

:th_scratchhead:well i already ordered it along with everything else from zzp...explain to me why you would think a 180 would be better? i asked this question before and someone told me if i get a 160 it will not let my gtp go into closed loop thus dumping fuel and ignoring the 02 sensors...i know that most stock gtp's enter closed loop at about 60* ect temp...but any way a 160 should run at about 170-175 at highway speeds..

Ok I dug this up just for you. Read the links in the post. Hopwefully it will give you some helpful information.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/30916-post3.html

 

[archemedes]

:th_scratchhead:well i already ordered it along with everything else from zzp...explain to me why you would think a 180 would be better? i asked this question before and someone told me if i get a 160 it will not let my gtp go into closed loop thus dumping fuel and ignoring the 02 sensors...i know that most stock gtp's enter closed loop at about 60* ect temp...but any way a 160 should run at about 170-175 at highway speeds...it's hot here in georgia so the heater not being hot enough is not a problem


but yea i hear ya on the timing retard and the pulley and i do appreciate your advice/input

to get into closed loop the engine needs to be over 180* (the whole purpose of the 160 stat was to keep it in cold start mode) I am in south Alabama (read hot and humid especially compared to Atlanta I lived there) and have a 180 in mine and just barely touch 200 in traffic

 

[GTP SE]

You can do mid 13's with that set up easily. I don't think the 160* T stat is a necessity though.

 

[Ron Vogel]

Skip the ported SC, and put the money into a tire. I think you'll need some higher octane to keep any sort of decent timing though.

 

[TDCRacing]

Skip the ported SC, and put the money into a tire. I think you'll need some higher octane to keep any sort of decent timing though.

:th_scratchhead:Were you refering to race gas when you said higher octane? What kind of tires you recomend?

 

[Ron Vogel]

:th_scratchhead:Were you refering to race gas when you said higher octane? What kind of tires you recomend?

BFG DR's will work well at your power level, QTP's will dead hook for you.

Yes, race gas and 17-19 degrees of timing. On premium, you'll prbably be stuck at stock timing or less.

 

[Iron Indian]

Lose the 3.25 and pulley up to a 3.4, unless your planning on running race gas. Also a tire upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea. Without traction you won't go anywhere, trust me.

 

[TDCRacing]

Lose the 3.25 and pulley up to a 3.4, unless your planning on running race gas. Also a tire upgrade wouldn't be a bad idea. Without traction you won't go anywhere, trust me.

I still have the 3.8 stock on there right now. Just finished the install of my ss plog and my 160 T-stat and also the solid polly upper motor mounts. Yeah i did go ahead and put the 160 in there for now.I have not checked it with my hpt scanner but i know for a fact it is running above 170 right now.What i will probably do is set my fan turn on/off temps to a 180 t-stat setting to help out untill the next time i order from zzp so i can get the 180.

 

[TDCRacing]

BFG DR's will work well at your power level, QTP's will dead hook for you.

Yes, race gas and 17-19 degrees of timing. On premium, you'll prbably be stuck at stock timing or less.

ok just checking lol...hey do you happen to have any personal experience with these tires? i know the bfg's are real good at the track as far as hookin up.but how are they on the street as far as tread wear for a fairly aggressive driver? how many miles do you think?


Do you know What the stock timing is?

 

[monte0]

you should have no issue getting mid 13's....I've managed to get 13.9 (see signature\/ ) out of a stock pulley, 3.29's and larger 72mm TB. Stock everything else....just some good old tuning.

 

[TDCRacing]

you should have no issue getting mid 13's....I've managed to get 13.9 (see signature\/ ) out of a stock pulley, 3.29's and larger 72mm TB. Stock everything else....just some good old tuning.

Not bad at all:th_thumbsup-wink: hey do you have any suggestions on tuning for timing? i know when you lets say advance timing across the whole board it's not a good way of doing things.so do you have any tips?

 

[monte0]

well, are you tuned to the point you see no kr? if your seeing kr, any added timing will actually make more kr. what are you seeing timing wise at WOT?

 

[TDCRacing]

the scan i did after my plog and 160 t-stat i saw 1* of kr with many wot runs and also on downshifts ect. That one degree of kr showed up 1 time in the scan other than that it was non existant. Looked like at wot i was not over 17* but usually was at 16-16.5* im new at this so work with me.I'm going to the track tomorrow so any help would be appreciated.

 

[Ron Vogel]

ok just checking lol...hey do you happen to have any personal experience with these tires? i know the bfg's are real good at the track as far as hookin up.but how are they on the street as far as tread wear for a fairly aggressive driver? how many miles do you think?


Do you know What the stock timing is?

Stock timing is 15. The BFG's are pretty streetable for a DR, the Nitto's are probably more streetable, but don't hook as well. I was able to get consistant low 1.8 short times on the BFG's, and 1.7's on the QTP's. Where the DR's really shine are after you get out of the hole up to the top of first.