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Just to confirm the pulley size with my current growing list of junk

ls6velless454

ls6velless454

New member
So I have some work cut out for me. Ever since I became a member on this wonderful site, (and since I got my car). I kept a mental grocery list of parts to get for my car over winter time, and so far I have a decent amount and it is still growing. First and foremost I already read the sticky at least four times about safely modding your 3800............I just want a little bit of closure from the actual members (blue, bio, etc......) Here the list I have so far.
Autolite 104's (might switch to NGK because I like the brand)
180 thermostat from Advance Auto Parts
DHP PCM
Gen V S/C with H bar removed LIM (still need to find out which TB LS1 or N*)
Possibly getting a Extreme Energy Comp Cam (still need supporting valve train, or I may sell to get a XP)
Currently in the process of collect the parts for a FWI
Still haven't decided on the headers yet I really want SLP for the name, but might settle for Speed daddy or SSAC idk
Aeroforce Intercepter

I basically wanted to go from bone stock which I am now, and just do everything at the same time since it will be easier that way. So here's my question what pulley what you run with this setup. I know your going to tell me to scan for KR, but I wanted to check with you guys on which pulley size you think would be safe for this potential finished setup. All feedback is appreciated. :th_thumbsup-wink: I'm assuming between a 3.3 or 3.25 possibly a little smaller? Gentlemen let me know what you think about my setup suggestions on what to buy next etc.
 


no fenderwell intake, go open cone. speed daddy headers are fine, i have them and im 100% satisfied.
 
ls6velless454 said:
Autolite 104's (might switch to NGK because I like the brand)

good choice. gap them in the .055" area to stat.

180 thermostat from Advance Auto Parts

not really necessary, but if you want.

DHP PCM

good choice again, but if youre going much farther than bolt ons and a ~3.4 ish pulley then youll want to consider buying a tuner. it will save you time and money in the long run.

Gen V S/C with H bar removed LIM (still need to find out which TB LS1 or N*)

the genV is also optional for you unless you want to run a pretty serious setup. since youre contemplating a cam then it might be a good choice for you.

Possibly getting a Extreme Energy Comp Cam (still need supporting valve train, or I may sell to get a XP)

here is the deal. that cam was probably one of the first cams produced for the series II 3800 as a blower cam. it is better than stock, but for your money there are other BETTER choices out there. i would suggest a VS cam if you want to stay on stock valve springs. i would suggest an s1x if you want to stay on stock heads with bigger springs. i would not be able to suggest a cam if youre going to modify the heads because i dont know what you want out of the car.

Currently in the process of collect the parts for a FWI

with a cam setup its just easier, quicker, and better to go with an open cone or some form of a short ram. either way you want 4" tubing and as straight as possible.

Still haven't decided on the headers yet I really want SLP for the name, but might settle for Speed daddy or SSAC idk

honestly, SLP are the same as SSAC, but SSAC are cheaper and more readily available. if youre risky, you might consider a set of the speed daddy headers. either way, its up to you, but headers are headers for these cars. none crack or break, but they all have their faults.

Aeroforce Intercepter

again, this is a good choice to have for scanning. you will probably want a LOGGING tool at some point and an aeroforce does not do that. just keep that in mind.
Click to expand...

see above. done.
 


180 thermostat from Advance Auto Parts

not really necessary, but if you want.

I was under the impression the car runs cooler which reduces KR I was just following the same guide other people where with the 180

Possibly getting a Extreme Energy Comp Cam (still need supporting valve train, or I may sell to get a XP)

here is the deal. that cam was probably one of the first cams produced for the series II 3800 as a blower cam. it is better than stock, but for your money there are other BETTER choices out there. i would suggest a VS cam if you want to stay on stock valve springs. i would suggest an s1x if you want to stay on stock heads with bigger springs. i would not be able to suggest a cam if youre going to modify the heads because i dont know what you want out of the car.

As far as money I will be getting the cam for less than half price if you think that's worth it

Currently in the process of collect the parts for a FWI
with a cam setup its just easier, quicker, and better to go with an open cone or some form of a short ram. either way you want 4" tubing and as straight as possible.

I was also under the impression that you HAVE to run a FWI or some sort of sealed air intake because of heat soak in the engine bay, which will cause higher inlet temps into the super charger. I thought you would run an open cone only if you where intercooled.

 
keeping the car running cool is only a help when youre pushing the car hard for a long period of time. if you do long WOT runs then a thermostat will help you. however, it really doesnt make the car run any better as far as KR goes.

if you can get the cam cheap, more power to you.

once you start dropping pulleys the intake stops mattering as much. the ability to flow is more important than keeping the air coming through the intake cool. therefore heat soak should never be an issue for you.
 
I was also going to get the inlet ported on the gen v, but I guess that's unnecessary considering I'm not going intercooled, and it's not known for additional gains. So let me get this straight 3.3 pulley or 3.25, and with these mods where do you think the car should be sitting as far as whp and in the quarter. My guess with whp is around 230-250 whp, and the quarter some where in the mid-to-high 13's. If I'm not going to get 13's after this setup than I may not even want to consider it. As far the PCM I now the DHP is "locked", but I was under the impression it can be tuned with a DHP tuner?
 
with a cam setup and ~3.25 pulley you should be pushing about 260 whp or a little more. hopefully with that and a good driver you can run low 13s, high 12s.

youll for sure hit 13s unless you fall asleep at the wheel.
 


Bio248 said:
good choice again, but if youre going much farther than bolt ons and a ~3.4 ish pulley then youll want to consider buying a tuner. it will save you time and money in the long run.
Click to expand...

Can he run that setup fine with the DHP? I'm going for a similar setup (XP and 3.4") and was going to get the DHP PCM to run for a while. I know a custom tune is best but will it be fine?
 
I'm going to go ahead and assume it will be ok, but will not be at optimum level. For the sheer fact that the cam is going to change the way the car runs, and the computer will not compensate for that entirely. To be honest I don't know if you should beat on a cammed car without a tune even if you have an aftermarket PCM all these factors are going to change the way the engine behaves, but I guess we will have to wait and see what the other guys think.
 
the off the shelf tune WILL NOT like a cam. you are for sure going to need a custom tune to your mods.
 


The extreme energy cam is an OK cam it gives a nice broad tourqe range but falls off on the top end their are better cams to be sure but for a DD it wouldn't be a bad choice ,going with a genv is always a good idea but unlesss you are going to IC removing the H bar is a waste of time ,I would say with a modular pulley setup start with a 3.4" to be on the safe side and go from there ,don't forget a new timing chain and tensioner and I believe if you are not going to IC some type of CAI would be a benefit just keep the tubing large 3 1/2" or 4" and limit the bends also use as large a K&N filter that you can fit in there .
 
chico said:
The extreme energy cam is an OK cam it gives a nice broad tourqe range but falls off on the top end their are better cams to be sure but for a DD it wouldn't be a bad choice ,going with a genv is always a good idea but unlesss you are going to IC removing the H bar is a waste of time ,I would say with a modular pulley setup start with a 3.4" to be on the safe side and go from there ,don't forget a new timing chain and tensioner and I believe if you are not going to IC some type of CAI would be a benefit just keep the tubing large 3 1/2" or 4" and limit the bends also use as large a K&N filter that you can fit in there .
Click to expand...

Once you are in the 3.4 gen v or 3.2 gen III range open cone is the best. I would also run a dry flow filter. Not K&N
 
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