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SS M90 Kit... PCM?

QwikGT said:
i ran the single belt for a year and never had any slip. i changed to the dual belt set up when i swapped in my L32. you can email Ed Morad and tell him you want the GTP pulley set up and theyll send you everything. make sure you get a new crank bolt from the dealer
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No slip hey? Good to know! Hmmmm, I'll try it out with a single belt for a while and if I begin to notice any belt slip, I'll be sure to go to a dual belt setup. Thanks everyone!

Now... Just about that PCM. I emailed Intense and told them my situation. Hopefully he'll get back to me soon.
 


QuikGT, what did you end up doing about the cold start idle problem? I was reading one guy who did the following:

"I bought a vacuum T and attached it to the vacuum port on the lower intake right below the supercharger snout. Previously, only the fuel pressure regulator had been connected there. I connected the fuel pressure regulator to one side of the T and the MAP sensor to the other. I capped off the open vacuum line from the throttle body."

He said that solved the problem for him. I'm not sure about this though... What do you guys think?
 
i had my car tuned to fix the problem. as for the vacuum lines, ill have to look at my car because i cant remember off hand. keep the single belt for now, no need to go spending money for nothing
 
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kfish said:
i got some proof, of what a zzp pcm will do. let me find the pic.
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lol once again, just put up a photo of a chipped piston and blame it on the pcm. Tell me what was your timing advanced too and what were you seeing for knock retard when that blew, and the a/f ratio when it happened. Also a list of mods and what you requested done in the pcm as far as timing or mods you said you had done when the vendor sold it to you? People blame it on the vendor pcm that they bought it from but do not even realize what they are getting. One of the first things anyone should get for their cars when modding is a scan guage and learn what their car is actually doing, then buy mods.
 


FoSHO99 said:
lol once again, just put up a photo of a chipped piston and blame it on the pcm. Tell me what was your timing advanced too and what were you seeing for knock retard when that blew, and the a/f ratio when it happened. Also a list of mods and what you requested done in the pcm as far as timing or mods you said you had done when the vendor sold it to you? People blame it on the vendor pcm that they bought it from but do not even realize what they are getting. One of the first things anyone should get for their cars when modding is a scan guage and learn what their car is actually doing, then buy mods.
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I agree 100% People spend money on "go fast" parts but think $200 for a decent scan guage is too much.
 
ok, i requested a top swap tune from zzp. pretty sure the fueling and timing was SET BY THEM. And i had 0kr when it blew thank you. So now is it still my fault?

And no, i don't have a scan gauge. but i keep my $500 scan tool on the passenger seat. good enough? plus i can actually log what the cars doing unlike the aeroforce.
 
kfish said:
ok, i requested a top swap tune from zzp. pretty sure the fueling and timing was SET BY THEM. And i had 0kr when it blew thank you. So now is it still my fault?

And no, i don't have a scan gauge. but i keep my $500 scan tool on the passenger seat. good enough? plus i can actually log what the cars doing unlike the aeroforce.
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So if you had 0kr when you chipped a piston and a $500 scan tool in the passenger seat, where is the log? That would tell us everything we need to know. You answered half my questions and still don't know what exactly caused your chipped piston. If any vendor really made a canned tune for a high compression boosted setup to run 0 knock, id be surprised as hell. Things don't add up, but we can all admit we've been young and stupid with our setups before. How else would we learn? I still think zzp has a very nice tune for these basic setup cars, any moderate mods your just pushing your luck not getting a local custom tune.
 
the chipped piston is the car going lean, i vote for vacuum leak somewhere near the vicinity of the cylinder. you say you did a top swap, something couldnt have sealed enough, maybe a LIM gasket or the blower gasket. wasnt enough of a leak to cause a rough idle but just enough to have the cylinder suck in enough air and not enough fuel. i say post the log and lets see what happened.
 
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