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Chipped pistons options

Bio248 said:
thats crazy that this happened stock in such an extreme way.
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That is why I'm so pissed/confused and utterly dissapointed about the whole ordeal.
blowfishRus6 said:
hone it, put some new pistons in it, gap the rings bigger. should run for a long time then.
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Cylinder walls have ZERO ridge and look good,gotta find pistons,then proper ring gap and maybe headers to help with the heat issues. If this car had a 5spd I'd buy it back from her and build it.
 


after doing all that work i would want to keep it.

ive been looking around for the stock ring gap then what others have made it bigger too but not much luck yet.
 
blowfishRus6 said:
after doing all that work i would want to keep it.

ive been looking around for the stock ring gap then what others have made it bigger too but not much luck yet.
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I might just go to the local dealer and ask them. They have a good service department so I figured I'd pick there brains. Wish I could find out if L67 pistons will work in this thing. I can't find L32's anywhere and all the motors I find are either super high mileage or they want $1500+ for one with lower mileage. Morad has nothing also.
 
When I trashed my stock pistons, I looked for the cause. Turned out the stock ring "end gap" was too tight even as checked on used stock rings. When the rings get hot under heavy use, they expand. In my case to the point of closing the gap from expansion. When this happens a lot of drag occurs against the cylinder wall. This drag then is also pressure in the ring grove of the piston. Stock pistons are short on the deminsion from top ring grove to the top of piston. This is the part that most frequently breaks/chips as the rings drag on them. You would have to install new rings and gap them at .020 to .023" to stop this end gap lock up.

I got this from another forum,so I'm still gonna find out what stock Gm recommendation is from the dealer and see what the difference is. Now to find out about L67 pistons.
 
Sorry about the coating answer...you said what was the difference and that really is it...the coating. AFAIK everything is the same...I think even the pins are identical too. IMO, only thing I would put any money into is the rod bearings and the rods themselves. That is just me though...I'd get some powdered rods and Clevite Bearings...that way when you rebuild it...it'll be stronger...you'll have less a chance of this happening IMO. Also, I'd get a 3" Downpipe for it...you can get them catted too...but after seeing this...I'd want the thing to breathe...and since you have the engine out...it'll be easy as hell to do. Plus, better performance when you need it and better MPG's to boot.
 
yea man find out what gm says. if its .15 or so i would deff run it at .20

i was talking to a guy that runs spray with his set up and they say you need to gap the rings even bigger with spray also. he said the only draw back was oil blow by past the rings and you might burn some oil. he said with his large ring gap he has not burned any oil that he can notice. so i would not be afraid to go a little big.
 


I'm thinking about just getting some L67 pistons,reusing the rods,new rod/main bearings,maybe some gasket matching...maybe,ebay headers and re-ring/hone. I think then It would be much better then factory and have some safety factor too. Thanks for the replies everything is coming together in my head now
 
Thinkmoto said:
I'm thinking about just getting some L67 pistons,reusing the rods,new rod/main bearings,maybe some gasket matching...maybe,ebay headers and re-ring/hone. I think then It would be much better then factory and have some safety factor too. Thanks for the replies everything is coming together in my head now
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L67 pistons work fine in an L32. New bearings and you should be good to go.
 
Gas mileage and not having to spend money on another rebuild sound like good excuses to me...just tell her the exhaust is broken and that is how much the new stuff costs.
 


bluegtp91 said:
Gas mileage and not having to spend money on another rebuild sound like good excuses to me...just tell her the exhaust is broken and that is how much the new stuff costs.
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True true, wish I could just get the car back for myself. It would be nice to recoup something from the divorce:(
 
Thinkmoto said:
True true, wish I could just get the car back for myself. It would be nice to recoup something from the divorce:(
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Why do you want to build up the car for an ex anyway? Just fix it back to running condition. If it happens again, let her on her own.
 
Zef_66 said:
Why do you want to build up the car for an ex anyway? Just fix it back to running condition. If it happens again, let her on her own.
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It sounds F'd up but i told her I'd fix it for her if she paid for parts. When we going through everything I bought her a car so she had something. The car didn't even make it til the final divorce date. I'm not building it in my eyes,just making it reliable again.

Anyone got some L67 pistons they'd part with? Please
 
I got some L36's w/ rods...but then you would for SURE need headers because of the higher compression.
 


Zef_66 said:
I have two, if that helps.

Does Ed Morad have any pistons?

Well, I do have a set of 6 TRW pistons that you can put on your old rods in my FS thread.
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I'm waiting on a response from Morad,last time I checked they had a 150kmile block but no pistons/rods. Are those TRW's a direct fit? You said they are for a GN?
I have my ex convinced I can make the car reliable,so she'll keep it now. So, I'm seriously looking guys.
 
Zef_66 said:
I have two, if that helps.

Does Ed Morad have any pistons?

Well, I do have a set of 6 TRW pistons that you can put on your old rods in my FS thread.
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USED to...pretty sure he stopped yanking sh!t apart and just selling stuff as a whole now that he really has moved on to bigger and better things.
 
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