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300+ hp?

Liquifire said:
you will have to have the pcm tuned for the new trans settings...also dont forget about the headers. You will need to get the extra air out before you put more air into it. So if you do everything all at once, it wont matter as you need to get it tuned anyway. I assume that you need a FMHE as well as pump for it, and all the gaskets and new fluids as well. Personally I would get the lower mileage trans if you cant afford to get one from TEP. and while the trans is out put a new filter on it before you install it. You may want to consider get the blower ported before you put it on there. This will improve flow, lower knock, and lower the temps which will all help you have a faster car in the end and make it easier to tune. Since you are running an IC you should port both the SC and the LIM for improved results.
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I keep changing my mind on what I want to do. I think I've gone back to the idea of changing the rockers/headers, instead of the cam. After researching it further, I can't afford it (with everything I wanted to do). So I have the headers aspect covered. I'm confused with what you mean by getting a new FMHE, pump, gaskets etc. Why will I need these? Sorry, I'm kinda new to this stuff. :(

Bio248 said:
just buy the diff from an HD trans and swap that in. you want the 3.29 gears from the non-hd trans.
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My current transmission has 200,000 km on it. Will it withstand the extra power with just replacing the current differential with the HD differential? What beneift is the 3.29 giving me? Wouldn't it be better to just buy an HD transmission with 1/4 of the kilometers that mine has?
 
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3.29s mean better acceleration for you, meaning you dont need as much power to go as fast.

it would be best if you would get a lower mileage transmission that is the same as yours stock so you dont really have to do any tuning work to make the car run and swap an hd diff in it. its probably cheaper than buying an hd transmission too.
 
Bio248 said:
3.29s mean better acceleration for you, meaning you dont need as much power to go as fast.

it would be best if you would get a lower mileage transmission that is the same as yours stock so you dont really have to do any tuning work to make the car run and swap an hd diff in it. its probably cheaper than buying an hd transmission too.
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That sounds good! I think I'll do that. :)
 
Bedwards said:
I keep changing my mind on what I want to do. I think I've gone back to the idea of changing the rockers/headers, instead of the cam. After researching it further, I can't afford it (with everything I wanted to do). So I have the headers aspect covered. I'm confused with what you mean by getting a new FMHE, pump, gaskets etc. Why will I need these? Sorry, I'm kinda new to this stuff. :(
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FMHE=front mount heat exchanger, the pump to circulate the fluid from the heat exchanger to your intercooler(this is all what keeps your incoming air temps down). gaskets as you will be tearing into your motor, so you will need new gaskets to replace the stock ones after you tear into it. You will need new oil, engine coolant, and tranny fluid if you are doing anything with the trans. I hope that covers it. If not, let me know and I can explain a little further if necessary.
 
Liquifire said:
FMHE=front mount heat exchanger, the pump to circulate the fluid from the heat exchanger to your intercooler(this is all what keeps your incoming air temps down). gaskets as you will be tearing into your motor, so you will need new gaskets to replace the stock ones after you tear into it. You will need new oil, engine coolant, and tranny fluid if you are doing anything with the trans. I hope that covers it. If not, let me know and I can explain a little further if necessary.
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That makes sense! Thank you.
 
One last question about the transmission... If I upgrade to the HD version, what else should I be replacing in the transmission to withstand the extra power? Here's what I have in mind so far (Milzy Motorsports):

-HD Differential
-HD Differential Cover
-Differential Cover Seal
-HD Output Shaft
-Sun gear
-Torrington Bearing
-Differential Shim
-GTP axle
 
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you can still trash an HD setup if you drive your car like an asshole. the only transmissions youll most likely not have problems with (for a good while, at least) are built transmissions and the only person we recommened around here is dave at TEP.
 
Okay so I contacted Ed Morad about a top swap kit. He has everything I need, but he told me I need a wiring upgrade to add the plug for the boost bypass valve and the MAP sensor (the plug is different). And then he said in 2001, GM changed the injectors on the NA motors and they are no longer the same style as the GTP's. So apparently I need 6 injector pigtails that I will need to splice into my harness. He said the other option is to swap in a whole GTP harness which gets much more expensive. I'm kind of confused about this... Is this really necessary? I didn't see it in the top swap sticky. Thanks guys.
 
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buy the l67 swap kit from ZZP. you only need the MAP converter. the BBV can be left vacuum controlled and work better than it does stock so long as you tune around it so it doesnt cut fuel under torque management. i thought the injector plugs were the same in all 97-03?

you dont need the whole harness, its a waste.
 
Just get the GTP fuel rail with injectors and find these parts or get a local junker to find them for you. It will be cheaper. Morad increases prices because he's the only one specialized in the 3800
 


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That's an 00 SE running an 01 L67 with stock L36 harness. Stock MAP sensor as well....
 
Haven't had any issues so far. No check engine codes and car runs just fine. Been running it this way for about 5K miles
 
Had a friend tune it for me. I'm completely tuning illiterate. He too was running a topswap with an L36 map sensor
 


This is what Ed Morad quoted me:

1. $650 for the hard parts of the kit
2. $235 for GM gaskets and torque to yeild bolts
3. $50 for the plug and play wiring harness up grade and the 6 injector
pigtails that you will need to splice into your harness
4. $150 for a plug and play PCM

So I shouldn't order # 3? Instead, get ZZP's L67 swap kit? Will that be absolutely everything I need?
 
dont need the PCM, tune your l36 pcm.

and yes, get the swap kit for the MAP converter. leave the BBV vacuum controlled. read the top swap thread about this.
 
You know what? **** it. I'm going to turbo the *****! I know it'll be expensive, but I'll work at it slowly. I have the car paid off (20 year old student), and I've put a lot of money into it already (fixing parts). I might as well keep it and get what I can out of it. I'm curious though, what modifications could I run on my N/A engine that would be beneficial to a turbo setup? I have a powerlog and downpipe on the way. Could an HV3 insert work with both? I'll wait on the cam or rockers, because I know there are ones made specifically for turbo. If you guys have any ideas or comments, please let me know!
 
HV3 is only for the N/A aplications, it doesnt do crap when your car is boosted.

Im keeping my car N/A and so far have powerlog and downpipe on the wishlist. HV3 after that and MAYBE a camshaft. Im really mechanicly stupid so Im getting difficulty of instalation into consideration, since cam and rockers Id bring to the shop.

If i was going turbo id personally go with Cartuning Performance Turbo kit, advertised 350hp to the crank bone stock. But its pricey, maybe even a bit overpricey (4000 with the IC!)
 
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