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Valve cover gaskets

Joe m

Joe m

New member
Hello, i need to do the valce cover gaskets on my 99 gtp. Iv never worked on one of these cars and would like a quick run through of what all i need to remove to get to both valve covers easily. Any info would be nice thanks.
 


Below is the GM service manual procedures. I just did this job, the rear is tight. I did not remove the belt tensioner, just loosened it up and worked around it, again, it is tight back there. You can, or will find short cuts too.



Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement Left Front

Removal Procedure

  1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.

    Remove the engine lift bracket from the exhaust manifold studs. <LI type=1>Remove the fuel injector sight shield. Refer to Fuel Injector Sight Shield Replacement . <LI type=1>Remove the right engine mount strut bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Bracket Replacement . <LI type=1>Disconnect the left spark plug wires. Refer to Spark Plug Wire Harness Replacement in Engine Electrical. <LI type=1>Remove the left spark plug wire cover from the left valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Spark Plug Wire Harness Replacement in Engine Electrical.
    <LI type=1>Remove the left valve rocker arm cover bolts.
    Important

    If the valve rocker arm cover adheres to the cylinder head, remove the valve rocker arm cover by bumping the end of the valve rocker arm cover with palm of hand or with a soft rubber mallet.

    <LI type=1>Remove the left valve rocker arm cover. <LI type=1>Remove the left valve rocker arm cover gasket. <LI type=1>Clean the sealing surface on the cylinder head and the valve rocker arm cover with a degreaser.
  2. Clean the valve rocker arm cover bolts of all thread locking adhesive.
For installation...

Tighten the valve rocker arm cover bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
 
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Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement Right Rear

Removal Procedure

  1. isconnect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical. Remove the fuel injector sight shield. Refer to Fuel Injector Sight Shield Replacement . Remove the generator. Refer to Generator Replacement in Engine Electrical. Remove the tensioner bracket. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement . Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement . Rotate the engine for access. Remove the right spark plug wires. Refer to Spark Plug Wire Harness Replacement in Engine Electrical. Remove the EVAP purge solenoid and the brace. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Valve Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.8L.

    Remove the fuel injector sight shield bracket.
    Remove the right valve rocker arm cover bolts.
    Important

    If the valve rocker arm cover adheres to the cylinder head, remove the valve rocker arm cover by bumping the end of the valve rocker arm cover with the palm of your hand or a soft rubber mallet.

    Remove the right valve rocker arm cover.Remove the right valve rocker arm cover gasket. Clean the sealing surface on the cylinder head and the valve rocker arm cover with a degreaser.
  2. Clean the valve rocker arm cover bolts of all thread locking adhesive.
 
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awesome thanks!! even though the links dont work it gives me more of a idea what i need to do. Im more of a truck guy iv built custom 4x4 trucks and 350s. So switching to my new gtp is a big learning experince.
 
What lock tight should i be using? Im assuming the blue stuff will work just fine for these?
 
You should be fine if you have that backgound for this job! Yeah I knew the links would not work. And honestly, my bolts were not very tight when I removed them, I did not see any loc tight on the bolts, so I did not use any when I put it back together.

This is what the service manual states. Apply thread lock compound GM P/N 1234593 or equivalent to the valve rocker arm cover bolt threads.
 
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sweet much. yea i have background with this stuff. But never on cars iv always been a truck guy. so i will print off your directions and go figure it out thanks again!
 
toolguy said:
I used to write GM service manuals and know there are errors, this is one of those cases obviously.
Click to expand...

As long as you weren't part of the 97 Bonneville FSM's we can still be friends. If you were part of that debacle where page one stated the manual was partially rewritten with broken and missing pieces.... I'm going to have to give you bad and incorrect advice as often as possible. :th_devil:
 
BillBoost37 said:
As long as you weren't part of the 97 Bonneville FSM's we can still be friends. If you were part of that debacle where page one stated the manual was partially rewritten with broken and missing pieces.... I'm going to have to give you bad and incorrect advice as often as possible. :th_devil:
Click to expand...


LOL!!! That WAS before my time! But I did know at that time, there were some huge issues with the Service Manuals, or Circus manuals as many called them, due to the errors!

If I remember right, 98 or 99, or both Cavalier/Sunfire, had issues too. I was working on those cars after that time, as well as Camaro and Firebird HVAC.
 


welp. i got my rear valve colver gasket replaced. wasnt to hard. Although i did end up breaking both plastic water elbows and 3 vacuum lines. Im not exactly sure what the vacuum lines go to besids the one that connects to the steel bracket above the rear valve cover. So before i put the alternator and its bracket back on i want to see if i can replace those lines.
 
yeah, my dad had to take his '00 GT to the dealership 3X's before they finally fixed it right. Thank god it was under warrenty, the bill was like $3,000 bucks!!!
 
Yeah the coolant elbows, running from the tensioner are a real stupid design if you ask me! I did not remove the tensioner, just loosen it up and that gave me clearance to remove and install the rear cover. I did not break the elbows when I did that, although I thought at least one would snap. Now that I look back, I am going to repalce both this weekend, just so they do not break on me while out of town and who knows, possibly I stressed the plastic from what I did. For $5 in parts, it is worth the 30 minutes or less to replace both now.

The vac lines I saw were going to, or coming off the intake manifold. One small, and one larger, going to the brake boster. I replaced the intake when I did the valve cover gaskets, so I had it all apart when I did it.
 
Yea the elbows are poorly setup. And my vac lines that i broke one coming off the evap headed to the passenger side. One is coming off of the T on the manifold under the S/C, And the other comes off the top of the TB i believe and heads towards the passenger side then goes down into a wiring harness.
 


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