smokingjoe
New member
is there an easy way to disable lockup function of the torque converter?
maybe somthing with brake switch.
maybe somthing with brake switch.
disable lockup 1999 regal gs
- Thread starter smokingjoe
- Start date
Trannyman95
Transmission Expert
There are ways to do this but without a tuner you are going to throw trouble codes and some of them will cause the trans to go into limp mode and have max line pressure. Why would you want to dissable TCC?
19SE92
New member
To the orginaly poster. If you have no tuner there is a plug in the front of the trans near the top of the case on the side were the exhaust cross over is it should be a round plug plugging into the trans pull it and lock up is shut down and no codes will be tripped. Because tkere will be no power going to the tcc switch.
19SE92
New member
To the orginaly poster. If you have no tuner there is a plug in the front of the trans near the top of the case on the side were the exhaust cross over is it should be a round plug plugging into the trans pull it and lock up is shut down and no codes will be tripped. Because tkere will be no power going to the tcc switch. thats the cheap way to do it if your in a fix...
Trannyman95
Transmission Expert
What are you talking about????
Above is the ONLY connector that goes inside a 4T65E and clearly if you disconnect this you lose everything, and it WILL throw codes, OBD2 systems throw codes for ANY transmission electrical problem. If the TCC switch in the transmission doesnt switch when the solenoid is commanded a code throws. If the solenoid isnt hooked up a voltage or short to ground code throws. When TCC slippage is over 250rpm for a certain time when commanded a code throws.
Above is the ONLY connector that goes inside a 4T65E and clearly if you disconnect this you lose everything, and it WILL throw codes, OBD2 systems throw codes for ANY transmission electrical problem. If the TCC switch in the transmission doesnt switch when the solenoid is commanded a code throws. If the solenoid isnt hooked up a voltage or short to ground code throws. When TCC slippage is over 250rpm for a certain time when commanded a code throws.
Toasty
New member
what in the world are you talking about? if you unplug that round plug, the trans wont do jack! you need to watch what you are telling people, man
look at the connector list in that... you are confused my friend!
Attachments
smokingjoe
New member
i have a shift kit and trans interceptor to increase line pressure, and when ever it goes in to lockup there is an annoying jarring type shudder, but i am very pleased with the rest of the shifts.
i am not worried about gas mileage.
thanks trannyman in advance
Joe Gancos
i am not worried about gas mileage.
thanks trannyman in advance
Joe Gancos
smokingjoe
New member
i have been running this set up for 4 years, i just dont like the lockup even when new.
SyntheticShield
New member
I REALLY try to be patient with people, particularly in this kind of environment where you have the multitude of backgrounds, personalities and so forth. And I try to play nice. I even try to put myself in the other persons shoes hoping to see things from a perspective I may give little consideration to.
But dude, Ive tried to look at it from different angles trying to figure out WHY in the world you would tell someone to disconnect the ONLY electrical plug to an ELECTRONICALLY controlled transmission. A transmission that DEPENDS on signals from the pcm to work properly as a complete system, not just TCC Lockup.
I dont know exactly what thought process you used, but it was a run away train that derailed in a metropolitan area and I certainly would appreciate if you would give serious thought to what you are about to post with respect to such advice.
I'll stop there because I am just about to boil over and I prefer to refrain from making you target practice.
Zef_66
New member
This is auctually quite common from what I have heard. My tranny did it to me when I started changing stuff, increasing line pressure, shift kit, etc. But I solved it by changing the shift points, and lock up points in my trans. And it does not do it anymore.
But I must caution you. Making your tranny not go into lockup can be very bad for your tranny. If you drive like this for any amount of time, your tranny temps will increase A LOT and it will not shift right. On top of this, the increased heat generated can cause the fluid to degrade at an increased rate and cause permanent damage to your transmission. This can happen just if you are driving it easy and not even beating on it. Just think what would happen if you start to drive aggressively. For these reasons, this kind of change is not recommended by anyone.
Trannyman95
Transmission Expert
What Zef said is 100% correct. If it is all in town driving then its not really going to make much of a difference, but highway driving is not going to be that good on the trans or fluid as locking up the converter gets rid of the converter slippage which creates heat, not to mention the few mpg you will lose. Out of curiousity have you tried unplugging the Intercepter yet???? I would try that. I have one here that the output transistor that controls the lockup solenoid was burned up and I can see that causing a lot of grief on the circuit and possibly causing what you have going on. Also there is a delay control for TCC in that box, have you tried adjusting that?
shaferz
New member
Zef_66
New member
FWIW, I kinda think I know where he is getting this info from. On my 440-T4, which was NOT electrically controlled, but rather vacuum controlled, I could pull the wiring plug on the front of the trans and disable lockup without any problems. So if his name is correct, he may be able to do the same on his 1992. But there is no way you can do this on a 97+ GP.
Toasty
New member
that's what we're getting at. the topic clearly states the op has a 99 MY. 99 MY GS=L67=4T65E-HD --- these are facts. and immediately he says unplug the connector and it will do what you want. obviously he doesnt really have any clue about these transmissions. It'd be one thing if he asks if it has a separate electrical plug, or asks specifically which trans it is...
i'm sure he knows stuff about the gen 1 cars. that's fine. but to assume that one knows about all transmissions in these late model W body cars too... sorry, charlie. do your homework.
Zef_66
New member
You and I understand this. But it was never stated. So for the sake of someone coming in here and seeing up tearing apart this guy, I was giving the reason. For others benefit, not your toasty. :th_winking:
smokingjoe
New member
the interceptor i have only has an external adjustment for line pressure, i heard the older ones had it for both line pressure and tcc, unless under the box cover the pot for adjustment is still there.
SyntheticShield
New member
they are calling it all sorts of things and hiding it all sorts of places now days aren't they :th_laugh-lol2:
Sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread but I couldnt resist.
I know that this is a very old thread, but perhaps someone in the know will breeze back thru anyway. I am currently looking for a way to - temporarily - disable TCC lock up on a 2000 Olds Silhouette (4T65E).
Mine is basically dropping in and out. At higher speeds (70 mph hi-way) its mostly unnoticeable unless you watch the tach. At 45-60 or so it gives a pretty bad stammer.
I've had it to a shop but just my luck the real trans tech wasn't there the day I brought it in. Of course, no one mentioned this minor fact to me even though I was bringing it for a trans scan! I can't stand this logic that scanners can just handle it independently of expertise. I learned nothing on my first trip.
Anyway, I am going to get it back to a shop but its not easy for me to have a day when I can just leave it all day (every shop requires it) - its major family logistics & time engineering. I'm looking at about a week from now.
In the meantime the van is fine, including all gear/shifts other than the lock up problem, and it needs to be used for normal family stuff. There's the wife's 30 mi round trip to work (rural hi-way and suburb/city style roads) and the running around of kids to here and there.
I just cringe thinking about this happening and the additional damage. It might turn out to be a catastrophic problem - or I might turn it into one just by driving it.
Anyway, I thought that pulling the TCC switch wire from the brake switch (purple from PCM) would do it since it would break the circuit continuity - which is what the brake switch does - but I was apparently wrong about that since it didn't seem to make a bit of difference.
If whatever can be done triggers limp mode, then I'll just undo it.
It makes no sense to me that there is no easy way to just turn the dumb thing off. This thing was equipped with air shocks and trailer wiring for pete's sake. How about a nice little O/D off button?
If anyone comes through and can help I'd be much obliged.
Mine is basically dropping in and out. At higher speeds (70 mph hi-way) its mostly unnoticeable unless you watch the tach. At 45-60 or so it gives a pretty bad stammer.
I've had it to a shop but just my luck the real trans tech wasn't there the day I brought it in. Of course, no one mentioned this minor fact to me even though I was bringing it for a trans scan! I can't stand this logic that scanners can just handle it independently of expertise. I learned nothing on my first trip.
Anyway, I am going to get it back to a shop but its not easy for me to have a day when I can just leave it all day (every shop requires it) - its major family logistics & time engineering. I'm looking at about a week from now.
In the meantime the van is fine, including all gear/shifts other than the lock up problem, and it needs to be used for normal family stuff. There's the wife's 30 mi round trip to work (rural hi-way and suburb/city style roads) and the running around of kids to here and there.
I just cringe thinking about this happening and the additional damage. It might turn out to be a catastrophic problem - or I might turn it into one just by driving it.
Anyway, I thought that pulling the TCC switch wire from the brake switch (purple from PCM) would do it since it would break the circuit continuity - which is what the brake switch does - but I was apparently wrong about that since it didn't seem to make a bit of difference.
If whatever can be done triggers limp mode, then I'll just undo it.
It makes no sense to me that there is no easy way to just turn the dumb thing off. This thing was equipped with air shocks and trailer wiring for pete's sake. How about a nice little O/D off button?
If anyone comes through and can help I'd be much obliged.