Wiper arm question.
- Thread starter Blue03GTP
- Start date
SyntheticShield
New member
They are splined on the motor side of the wiper. In some cases you can press the wiper arm back on there and tighten the nut down and be good to go. Last winter my passenger side wiper let go, I pulled the arm off, cleaned everything up and tightened it back down and its been good to go ever since. Of course I havent tried to move all the ice out of the way that I did that day either.
Now, if the splines on the motor side are ruined that may be a different story. But if the splines are good there then you can either get a new arm and press it on there or try your luck in putting the old one back on and see if it will hold.
Now, if the splines on the motor side are ruined that may be a different story. But if the splines are good there then you can either get a new arm and press it on there or try your luck in putting the old one back on and see if it will hold.
Toasty
New member
if your arm is stripped clean, there wont be enogh material there to make new splines against the shaft...
you're best off replacing with new. some auto parts stores may have them in stock, but dealer should be under $40.
SyntheticShield
New member
Not the arms themselves. The splines are on the stud/motor side. But keep in mind, mine did the same thing until I pulled the arm off and cleaned everything up and bolted it back down. Im not saying yours will work out the same but it cant hurt to try.
Toasty
New member
only other option would be to use some loctite and tighten it very very tightly, but if that works, it likely wont work for long. replacing the arm is just about the only viable fix.
archemedes
New member
except duct tape (sorry had to):th_biggrin2:
SyntheticShield
New member
Okay bud, you've forced my hand here.
The original post stated:
Are the wiper arms threaded?
I dont see whats so vague here, its a straight forward question, care to clarify what you find vague?
Next, it was stated:
My driver wiper arm is stripped clean and the motor has alot of good threads still on there but not good enough if I have to make the threads on a new one.
Again, the poster was very clear. The wiper arm itself is stripped, and in his next post in the thread stated the arm moved about freely. So again, if you could please clarify what you find vague about this I would appreciate it.
Toasty
New member
? that's not vauge in the slightest. (unless you dont know how these go together in the first place) there was also another thread quite similar to this a few weeks back.
the wiper shaft has splines, and has a slight cone shape/taper. the arm is a softer aluminum. the hole in the arm is similarly tapered/cone shaped, however is slightly smaller diameter than the splines on the shaft. when you put the arm on and tighten the bolt, the splines from the shaft press-fit splines into the arm. if and when the arm rotates on the shaft, the press-fit splines are stripped. in some cases (like SS's) he was able to remove the original arm, clean out the debris, and re-attach. In ths OP's case, he tried this, and there isnt enough material left in the arm for new press fit splines-- too much clearance between the two parts.
Next question please.
Toasty
New member
Reptile
Bastard
Also keep in mind...if the wiper arm has worked loose over time, the motor side could have chewed up the inside of the wiper arm. It isn't under much stress, but does require some kind of splined inard to bite on. If it's worn smoothe, then all the tightening in the world isn't going to fix the problem, and you'll end up snapping the stud off..which will create a huge problem resulting in you getting a new wiper transmission.
GR8racingfool
New member
Like said above, the stud the arm attaches to, that has a threaded top for the nut has the splines, and the arm its self is a softer material, and when the nut is tightened down, the arm is forced onto the tapered splined shaft and splines are created in the arm now. The nut crushes the two together, creating the splined joint.
If the arm becomes loose, and tightening doesn't fix it, then you will either need to shim the arm to the splined tapered shaft, or replace the arm all together. Or worse case, the motor assembly if the studs are stripped, but 9 times out of 10, the arm is what needs to be replaced.
ED would be you cheapest best bet if you cant get them locally at a good price. email ED at [email protected]
:th_thumbsup-wink:
~F~
If the arm becomes loose, and tightening doesn't fix it, then you will either need to shim the arm to the splined tapered shaft, or replace the arm all together. Or worse case, the motor assembly if the studs are stripped, but 9 times out of 10, the arm is what needs to be replaced.
ED would be you cheapest best bet if you cant get them locally at a good price. email ED at [email protected]
:th_thumbsup-wink:
~F~
archemedes
New member
the arms aren't that expensive new I thought
GR8racingfool
New member
Never looked myself for new, something like that I'll buy used, and powder coat them to make them look new. Besides what ED was charging me for my sets, it was for sure a savings vs. buying new.
~F~
~F~
archemedes
New member
wow I just checked and priced over $30 each new, used ones say $10 a pair would be perfect
Toasty
New member
arms from the dealer are under $40. aftermarket are less.
I'd be hesitant to buy used on these, though, since the material will be already crushed outward, may not last as long, but i suppose, depending on the price might be worth a shot.