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has anyone put speakers in the side paneling by the back seats?

mikefeelsgood

mikefeelsgood

New member
I have a '95 GP and just put in a factory monsoon head unit. I have alpine 6x9's in the deck and am getting ready to replace the door speakers, most likely with infinity reference series. The monsoon was powering a 10(or 8, I can't remember now)speaker setup with power to spare, so I figured I'd make mine at least a 6 and add something like 6 1/2" rounds in the wall panels in the back seat area. Has anyone done anything like this? Thanks
 


infinity reference = GOOD CHOICE. i have those for all 4 speakers. i didn't add any speakers to my whip though.
 
Thanks. I still have the factory door speakers in for now and they're kind of crackeling. The alpines are actually hitting harder than my friends camaro that has 2 10's in the back(his crappy sealed box is why, but it sounds good). How is the bass with your infinity setup in the doors? And did you use the factory 5 1/4" size? My friend suggested the reference series to compliment the low range bias of my type s's. He said they were more mid to high range speakers. I'm planning on no subs at all, and even if I add the 2 by the back seats, you won't be able to see them. Everything looks stock now, and that's how I plan to keep it.
 
Well Aplines are ok, the reference series I know little about. I personally went with Memphis Audio M Class speakers, both the 6.5in and 6x9s. Your factory speaker locations will always look stock given how they are hidden behind the door panels and rear deck cover, so no worries on messing that up :)

But you are right, you want more high end (trebble) and mid range bass for the fronts and leave the bass in the back. That way you get a nice all around sound from them.

You will probably have to do a little dremeling of the speaker holder, if they are anything like the 97-03 GPs. There will be a plastic holder that contains the factory 5in speaker. You will need to carefully dremel it out to mate with the larger 6.5in speaker, but its not a hard task to pull off and still keep things custom :)
 
im trying to figure out some good in cabin possiblities for sub's.. the trunk works great, but doesnt put the sound where I am lol...
 
Mad Monkey said:
im trying to figure out some good in cabin possiblities for sub's.. the trunk works great, but doesnt put the sound where I am lol...
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sounds like you need some more bass/subwoofers my friend.

Im running a rear fire setup and its brain rattlingly loud, but then again i am running a Fi BTL on somewhere around 1KW so its not exactly your standard setup.
 


You want subs in the cabin? I would think you'd have to be making a pretty decent sacrifice of some sort. Unless you could put them under the seats, but of course they'd have to be shallows. Or in custom boxes where the rear passengers' feet would go. That would kick ass =D
 
i was actually thinking maybe like make a box that goes over the tunnel in the rear between the 2 passenger seats, id doubt id be carrying 3 peple back there often enuff to cause a problem...
 
that would work, but wouldnt the box be too small? i dont know what size/how many subs you want to run tho. from what ive read about the subwoofers that i own at least, they recommend about 1 cubic foot of air space per speaker in the box. heres an idea, make a box that sits where the rear passengers feet would go, with the speaker pointing up, and a vent that points forward under the front seats =D people could even still put their feet down if you put a guard over the speakers
 
my other idea will be to do 2 directed subs in the trunk, aimed at the rear seats, but not the passthru, i wanna keep that available etc. would allow some good movement thru the seats.. maybe a couple of 10's or 12's...

if i was gonna do the incabin style i was thinking a nice 8"... depending on how the box is made i could get the cubic feet...

but audio is a way's off yet from whats on plan for the car.. ive got aftermarket HU and speakers for now, subs/amps later... body work first lol
 
I hear ya on that one. The want for more audio is there, but the funds are needed elsewhere :P
My body is perfect besides the clear coat on the front bumper and spoiler. But the suspension is shot. I got the car from a nice old guy who was the original owner. He took great care of it but drove by ear, which is a bad choice for someone whose deaf! He must have thought it was a tank because he ran over everything :P
 


take a look at my album.. mine is your typical 99 SE canadian winter driven, mechanically taken care of but not visually...im repainting the whole car
 
if you install two subs in the trunk face them towards the rear, speaker manufacturers design their speakers to install this way + the bass is amplified as it reflects off of the rear of the car and drives forward. Trust me.
 
jfhghs said:
if you install two subs in the trunk face them towards the rear, speaker manufacturers design their speakers to install this way + the bass is amplified as it reflects off of the rear of the car and drives forward. Trust me.
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exactly, theres a reason this is the common setup, it works, unless your going for high SPL numbers on the mic, then you want to seal off the cabin and wall the woofers in the back seat area, but for daily bumping you want then facing the back against the front seats.
 
good to know...i guess ive just heard too many douchebags with crappy rattly trunks lol

when it comes time agian for audio i will go standard set up..
 
Mad Monkey said:
good to know...i guess ive just heard too many douchebags with crappy rattly trunks lol

when it comes time agian for audio i will go standard set up..
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i had the same thought, faced my Type R sub and port forward with the seats folded down thinking my trunk wouldnt rattle, since all the air is moving forward, nope, still had mad rattles. and with my FI BTL, its about to fly off, but ya knwo what, it sounds oh so good, and painfully loud inside, so i just let it pound.

the only way to alleviate the trunk rattling is to add weight [dynomat, bedliner, etc] or something like damplifier mats to absorb the energy.

and ya, your trunk might rattle, and people might hate, but you wont hear the haters over your BA subs, just let the haters hate.
 


As far as running 6 speakers in the cabin, it's a waste of time. Instead of wasting money on a third pair of speakers, get a good set of components for the front doors and a good powerful amp to run them off of. The less speakers, the better the sound.

If you figure out any ideas for cabin subs let me know... I've been looking to do the same thing.
 
NO GUYS!

DO THIS:

Build a fourth order bandpass box and vent it into the cabin. Done.

OR

Install something like

these Creative Sound - Product Details

In the door panels in MDF boxes and another pair in the rear deck where the 6x9's are but again, real boxes or go home.

The solution is never the trunk. A wall is nice sound wise, kinda destroys the point of rear seats...
 
Mad Monkey said:
im trying to figure out some good in cabin possiblities for sub's.. the trunk works great, but doesnt put the sound where I am lol...
Click to expand...


Location isn't the issue. It's speaker design. I use a subwoofer in my trunk and everybody looks around trying to find it up front. They seem to think I've hidden it ;) The other issue behind localization is vibrations. Some people go as far as placing sound deadener on the underside of floor mats to prevent localization through vibration. I believe a 20hz wave is 54 feet long or something rather. Everything it hits on the way out tells us where its at. Dampen that out!

Installation is key to success. Good audio isn't the product of spending money, just making good choices based on goals. Purchase speakers based on needs, not reputations or bragging rights. Every speaker is different.

EDIT: I only use 300watts. Theory states that 600watts = 3db gain. Research shows that 3db is noticeable to our ears but isn't perceived as much louder; 10db gain is perceived as twice the volume. 1watt sensitivity is what you want to look for when trying to get LOUD. You don't necessarily need 1.2 jigawatts :>
 
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I800C0LLECT said:
Location isn't the issue. It's speaker design. I use a subwoofer in my trunk and everybody looks around trying to find it up front. They seem to think I've hidden it ;) The other issue behind localization is vibrations. Some people go as far as placing sound deadener on the underside of floor mats to prevent localization through vibration. I believe a 20hz wave is 54 feet long or something rather. Everything it hits on the way out tells us where its at. Dampen that out!

Installation is key to success. Good audio isn't the product of spending money, just making good choices based on goals. Purchase speakers based on needs, not reputations or bragging rights. Every speaker is different.

EDIT: I only use 300watts. Theory states that 600watts = 3db gain. Research shows that 3db is noticeable to our ears but isn't perceived as much louder; 10db gain is perceived as twice the volume. 1watt sensitivity is what you want to look for when trying to get LOUD. You don't necessarily need 1.2 jigawatts :>
Click to expand...

~2.81 V is what sensitivity should be measured at, its more comparable across different impedance drivers.
 
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