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inner tie rods

G

grreed

New member
Has anyone repaced inner tie rods on a 1999 GP?
I have replaced both ball joints, driver side outer tie rod, both front wheel hub assy's, sway bar and sway bar links, now I need to change the passenger side inner tie rod. Can it be replaced while on the car or do you have to remove the steeering assembly? My Haynes book says nothing about the inner tie rod.

Thanks in advance.
 


You're confusing yourself. The car only has two tie rods. One on each side. But, each tie rod does have an outer tie rod end, and an inner tie rod end.

The inner tie rod ends require special tools to replace as they're deep inside the steering rack. Not something a shade tree mechanic will want to do lightly. With all the labor involved, I would just order a used rack from Ed Morad and go from there.
 
Yeah, I have the tool to pull off the inner tie rod ends and I can only say you dont want to attempt it without it. With it, its a piece of cake.

You can replace it on the car, you would need to disconnect the outer tie rode end and then remove the outter tie rod end form the inner tie rod and then use the special tool to undo the inner rod. You would also have to take off the boot that protects the inner tie rod connection and those use clamps like those on the CV joints. Putting a set back on will be no easy chore with the limited space, so when I did mine I just use regular worm gear clamps. You could probably get away with zip ties, but I wont say that for certain.

Its really simple if you have the tool to do it. The tie rod tool is nothing more than a super long deep socket. Mine has different bits I can use to accommodate different sized tie rod connections.
 
it is a snap with the proper tool, and if you put a used rack on replace the inner tie rods always, to me ti's like using a used set of brakes of unknown origin not worth my life for a couple bucks (not to mention shop labor would be about the same as buying a rack)
 
I have done the inner tie rods a couple times. And yeah, they are not hard to do. But they do require the correct tools. I just "rented" mine from the local Autozone store. I had to pay full price, took them home and used them, then they let you return them for full money back. Nice deal.

But Scotty has it right on. Everything I wanted to say and perfect! :th_thumbsup-wink:
 


I have seen the tool, bear with me here a little, does this tool just remove the tie rod from the inner tie rod end or does it remove the tie rod end from the rack?
 
Hey thanks. I went to Autozone and they showed me the inner tie rod and the replacement tool. I can now see what I dealing with. I think I'll replace it either Thur, or Fri.
 
Everything went good after Autozone got me the right tool. I did mess up the large band for the boot, but a hose clamp worked fine. I also had to replace the outer tie rod end. The bolt had a hex head on the end that broke my 8mm socket and then stripped out. Had to cut it off. This sure was better than having to take the whole rack out.

Thanks again!!
 


grreed said:
Everything went good after Autozone got me the right tool. I did mess up the large band for the boot, but a hose clamp worked fine. I also had to replace the outer tie rod end. The bolt had a hex head on the end that broke my 8mm socket and then stripped out. Had to cut it off. This sure was better than having to take the whole rack out.

Thanks again!!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the post and comments. I am going to try and do mine this weekend. What was the 8mm socket for? Any other "special" tools needed? I am also doing my ball joint, control arm bushing and sway bar (if I can find one!!).
 
Thats good news to hear.

Always helps to see the replacement part, and the special tool needed before you start the job, that way you can see whats going to go where and what or how it comes out of your car.

Visual aid FTW!

~F~
 
I have a couple questions.... I looked at the Moog part today at Oreillys. It said something needed to be measured with a feeler gauge, I see no mention of that here, is that true? Also, I assume a back up wrench will be needed when tightening the new part into the rack, how tight does it need to me? IIRC, Moog said 70 ftlbs...
 
Also, is there any pin holding in the inner tie rod? Does Blue locktite need to be used when installing it in the rack or will antiseeze do? (I put antiseeze on every bolt I take out no matter what)..........
 
Iron Indian said:
Also, is there any pin holding in the inner tie rod? Does Blue locktite need to be used when installing it in the rack or will antiseeze do? (I put antiseeze on every bolt I take out no matter what)..........
Click to expand...

I just did this a few days ago, no pin holding the inner tie rod on the rack. I also didn't use any locktite or anti seize where the inner tie rod bolts to the rack. When I took the old ones off no evidence of any corrision, there is also a white plastic cap covering the knuckle.

Now I did use anti seize where the outer screws onto the inner... I had to cut both the outers off, pretty sure these had been on the car since new.

And yes the tool makes life so much easier. With the boots (Moog) they came with plastic ties, didn't use the metal bands.
 


BlownBigBlock said:
I just did this a few days ago, no pin holding the inner tie rod on the rack. I also didn't use any locktite or anti seize where the inner tie rod bolts to the rack. When I took the old ones off no evidence of any corrision, there is also a white plastic cap covering the knuckle.

Now I did use anti seize where the outer screws onto the inner... I had to cut both the outers off, pretty sure these had been on the car since new.

And yes the tool makes life so much easier. With the boots (Moog) they came with plastic ties, didn't use the metal bands.
Click to expand...


This white plastic cap, its on a knuckle, Which one? is it at the joint? Do you reuse it?

Thanks...
 
Iron Indian said:
This white plastic cap, its on a knuckle, Which one? is it at the joint? Do you reuse it?

Thanks...
Click to expand...

Shawn, the white cap covered the area where the tool would slide over, it's about 1.5 inches long, when you remove the rubber boot you'll see it.

I just took a screw driver and lightly tapped it back (slides back towards the rack). You then see the machined part that the tool would slide over, after replacing the inner tie rod I just slide the cap back over it again.

Once you get the rubber boot off, it will become alot more easier to see what I'm referring to.
 
BlownBigBlock said:
Shawn, the white cap covered the area where the tool would slide over, it's about 1.5 inches long, when you remove the rubber boot you'll see it.

I just took a screw driver and lightly tapped it back (slides back towards the rack). You then see the machined part that the tool would slide over, after replacing the inner tie rod I just slide the cap back over it again.

Once you get the rubber boot off, it will become alot more easier to see what I'm referring to.
Click to expand...


I assume you need a back up wrench right? Did you need to measure anything with a feeler gauge?
 
Iron Indian said:
I assume you need a back up wrench right? Did you need to measure anything with a feeler gauge?
Click to expand...

What is this back up wrench you refer to??? :th_scratchhead: To put the inner tie rod back on you use the same tool you used to remove it. And I didn't use
any feeler gauge for anything.

With the variances between manufactures, I just went stop to stop on the steering wheel, set it at halfway and put everything back together.

I'll adjust it closer when it comes time for the alignment.
 
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