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Boost Controller

minichopper6hp said:
that dyno has really nothing to do with the subject at hand, we are talking about a cobalt, not an m5 with windspeed sensors. Fact of the matter is, it has a crappy fmhe and heat soaks relatively easy.
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<<sigh>> I do fans, heat exchangers, and vapor-compression cycle cooling systems for a living. Obviously you know more about all of this than I do, and we all know what they say about arguing over the internet...

I would still like to know the specs of this 100+ MPH fan, though.
 


Ok, so maybe not 100 mph. Dynos suck anyways my point originally of this thread was about boost controller, dont know how it got to this.
 
so lets hear it for the padres? lol. yea i spent a lot of time reading your pic and notes, and that is cool. so this solenoid you speak of, its adjustable for your boost you want? if so, that is awesome.
 
so, you want to limit boost, in order to what...limit your possibility of detonation?

So, in limiting this boost, you're going to heat the air up by putting it through the blower, then bypass it to be heated up again, with the idea that this will be helpful in reducing knock from too much boost?

Do you see the relatively major flaw in your logic?

To the second issue. If you're not running the intercooler coolant all the time, and then jab the throttle, you have to then completely evacuate all the engine-temp coolant, AND bring the core itself back down to temperature before you ever even begin cooling the intake charge, which is being further heated by the blower. You're going to have an awfully hard time controlling burst knock with such a silly setup, and are going to have to employ one hell of a fat AE table to keep it from popping pistons on downshifts.

I can appreciate trying to be innovative, but stuff like this has been done the exact same way with excellent results for going on ten years for a pretty good reason. It's simple, and it works better than anything else. Put the right size pulley on, and keep the pump running, or you're going to be heat soaking the hell out of everything, and killing the performance of your intercooler.
 
lageR said:
so, you want to limit boost, in order to what...limit your possibility of detonation?

So, in limiting this boost, you're going to heat the air up by putting it through the blower, then bypass it to be heated up again, with the idea that this will be helpful in reducing knock from too much boost?

Do you see the relatively major flaw in your logic?

To the second issue. If you're not running the intercooler coolant all the time, and then jab the throttle, you have to then completely evacuate all the engine-temp coolant, AND bring the core itself back down to temperature before you ever even begin cooling the intake charge, which is being further heated by the blower. You're going to have an awfully hard time controlling burst knock with such a silly setup, and are going to have to employ one hell of a fat AE table to keep it from popping pistons on downshifts.

I can appreciate trying to be innovative, but stuff like this has been done the exact same way with excellent results for going on ten years for a pretty good reason. It's simple, and it works better than anything else. Put the right size pulley on, and keep the pump running, or you're going to be heat soaking the hell out of everything, and killing the performance of your intercooler.
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I agree.

Its not like you're driving some hardcore potential race car that'll gain a lot of MPG by doing this. You won't gain anything there, all you get in return is a car that gets the same MPG that is quite a bit slower. Why have a car second slower when you can have it a second faster without any other effects? Just being honest man...
 
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First, air is only heated b/c its compressed. That being said, if its not compressed and just recycled, its not reheated. Second, this was meant to be a stoplight setup, as in im running low boost and want to race someone, so i flip the intercooler on, let it circulate for a couple of seconds, the boost is now raised. It does work, has worked, and is used on many turbo setups as well. I will not be using it now though as im going the turbo route myself.
 


minichopper6hp said:
First, air is only heated b/c its compressed. That being said, if its not compressed and just recycled, its not reheated. Second, this was meant to be a stoplight setup, as in im running low boost and want to race someone, so i flip the intercooler on, let it circulate for a couple of seconds, the boost is now raised. It does work, has worked, and is used on many turbo setups as well. I will not be using it now though as im going the turbo route myself.
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ONLY heated because it's compressed?

Explain to me why there is then, published adiabatic efficiency data for these blowers? I think I know what you were trying to say, but it came out incorrect. Any air that goes through the blower, in recirc or boost, is being heated, that's a fact. If you're making boost, whilst bleeding it off and then recirculating it to the blower's inlet, you're going to be heating the **** out of it, and ending up in the same place.

It's a terrible idea, and isn't done on roots blowers for a reason

As for the intercooler idea, it's simply a silly idea, with no real point, and obvious detrimental side effects. I don't see the draw...
 
Take your negativity over to clubgp, its not needed or wanted over here. This was my little project and it works fine, and if you don't want to use it. This was meant to save ic pump life.
 
minichopper6hp said:
Would there be an effective way to make a boost controller using the bbv to limit the boost of the supercharger? I would like to put on my 3.0 pulley and retain the current 10 psi. Reason is that i dont want to have to keep swapping pulleys everytime i want to change boost level. Also would be good b/c im going to have my intercooler on a switch, with a switch that i could up the boost when the ic is running only. Today i put a restrictor inline with a hose going from the lim to the bottom of the bbv where the factory solenoid was. I originally was running 10 psi, and now am running 4 psi as an experiment. I think that we could adapt the adjustable boost controller like they use on the turbo wastegate. Any ideas?

Logan

boost.jpg
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logan,

what about putting in this solenoid (it works better than GM or using an EGR solenoid)

Perrin Performance - Boost Control Solenoid

and control it with this inside the car? its not cheap, but its not expensive like other units...

Dejon Tool BstC Electronic Boost Controller for the Mitsubishi Eclipse - DSMtuners.com

it would be able to do any boost you dial it in to...as long as you have better map and what not to support it. what do you all think? would it work?
 
Logan,

I know you said you're going turbo instead, and that you were interested in adjustable boost control, but here's what I'm considering on my H-body (I do not know if W-body wiring is the same):

The only function of Pin 2 (18AWG brn/wht) on the clear connector of the Brake Control Module is to illuminate the "Traction OFF" bulb in the dash when Traction Control (TC) is switched off. Probing it, I found it sends 9-10v to the bulb at key-on / no run (probably more when running), plenty enough to trigger a solenoid or relay.

I'm thinking of tapping into that wire to control the Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) and to switch a relay for the IC pump.

That way I'll have two driving modes:
1) "Wife mode": TC on / IC pump off / restricted boost (default mode at start-up, BTW)
2) "Man mode": TC off / IC pump on / unrestricted boost (must be driver-selected)

As another poster said, there is some concern that endlessly recirculating the boost may cause runaway intake air overheating. I'm planning to rig some sort of temp sender into the LIM to check for that (and also to test the IC's function). If that becomes a problem, then I guess it's back to the drawing board :th_laugh-lol2:
 


I see what your saying. As far as the recirculated heat, thats all speculation. I doubt it would be significant giving the fact your intercooled anyways. Not to mention, if the blower is not creating boost, which is caused by a restriction, i.e.: boost bypass closed, there is no way extra heat is generated. I know people say that the heat is generated by the air passing over the rotors, but that just isnt true. It is caused by the blower actually creating boost, which if you restrict it to 5 psi lets say, its only going to create that much heat regardless of the pulley size.
 
yeah logan, go turbo ;) i know how to make a homemade boost controller for 12 bucks and some change lol. my new toy is a 94 tsi awd...that is where i have been guys, sorry. trying to figure out crap of why its not making boost, plates/reg, and what not. but yes, i have been doing lots of reading on boost controllers lately..some of its boring. but this, logan, is interesting. cheap way to auto config from drivers seat. even see people run two of these, on a three way switch so you get say, 7 psi with one on, and 14 psi with both on...but hey, its all gravy!!
 
Yea thats what i was gonna do with my turbo daytona but never got around to it. Just used a grainger valve to control my boost.
 


well, i figured out what was making me not boost...
DSCN1780.jpg

aint that awesome? trying to take it apart, and snapped off two bolts in manifold to housing. hello benzene torch and pb blaster soak...
 
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