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Any advice removing old harmonic balancer?

99prixgt

99prixgt

club of used to own a gp
Well, as soon as i get a nice day, i am going to start on my car. I figured for now i can at least swap the L36 harmonic balancer for the L67 one. Any advice when doing this swap, so i don't break a bolt and be in a world of sh&$?
Thanks in advance
 


You will need a puller. Do not use the JAW type. Use the bolt type.



You will need to take the crank bolt out. The go to lowes or home depo and buy 3 M6 - 1.00 75mm bolts and some washers to fit those bolts. Then make sure that the puller's main bolt goes all the way inside of the crank and does not hit the threads. Usually the main bolt size for the pulley is smaller than the inside dia of the female crank bolt hole.


Some pullers have a cone shaped peice that goes on the end of the main bolt for the pulley. If you can take that off then you could more than likley do it like i stated above. If not you'll have to put a deep socket where the crank bolt goes.


Then all you do is thread those three bolts through the slots in the ballancer. The washers are to prevent the head of the bolt from going through the slots in the puller. Usually the head is about the same size as the slots and when you're trying to pull it they will slip through.


If you need anything else just let me know buddy.
 
if you have never taken off the bolt in the crank, there is an easy way... take a 15/16 1/2 inch drive socket and ratchet and put it on the crank bolt and rest it on the cradle facing forward in the ratchet reverse mode, then disable the ignition system, and bump over the engine with the starter. It will easily loosen the bolt for you. Just DO NOT FORGET TO DISABLE THE IGNITION SYSTEM OR IT WILL START THE MOTOR AND YOU WILL BE SCREWED. that works for me....


Logan
 
minichopper6hp said:
if you have never taken off the bolt in the crank, there is an easy way... take a 15/16 1/2 inch drive socket and ratchet and put it on the crank bolt and rest it on the cradle facing forward in the ratchet reverse mode, then disable the ignition system, and bump over the engine with the starter.
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A very respected member here did me a write up on removing the balancer, and this was at the top of his "things not to do" list.

It took me a while to impact it out, but it did finally come out. I used three Grade 8 bolts like TDC suggested to you with some washers. If I had to do it again I would get Grade 8 washers or triple stack the washers since they got pretty bent up. Make sure all three are threaded in evenly so it pulls evenly.

Oh, and use a 1/4" drive deep socket as a spacer to protect the crank threads. Small enough to go in all the way, but large enough to not play.
 
i bought a generic puller from autozone, but i used different bolts (w/washers) to line it up. worked great. use a small 3/8" extension to keep the thread in the inside alive.

you have to use a puller to pull it off, but to push it on use an impact with the right bolt and be done with it.
 


look, i cant tell you what to do or not to do with your car, im just telling you an easy way that someone wrote about and i used it for myself also, worked great, no harm done.
 
Scimmia said:
Just curious, why's that? Many well respected people have suggested doing this very thing, too.
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I don't have the PM anymore, and I'm not going to call him out on it in case it causes any issues here. I personally don't see it as a good idea either when some vice grips on the flex plate and a break bar will do the trick fine. I had to bust out the bigger impact, but I just impacted mine out.
 
Once you have the bolt off you can remove the balancer easy (as long as your not trying to save the old one) I just give it a wack with a BFH and it pops off nice and easy.
 


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