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Starting Problems

S

SahotaGTP

New member
Hey everyone this is my first time posting on these boards.
I own a 1998 GTP and i bought it last summer, after i bought it i noticed that when you start it the car doesn't start right away but will take a good 3-4 secs to start but within 15 minutes of driving it around it will start normally. The wierd thing is that once in a while on a cold morning it will start normally.
Just wondering if anyone could please help me with this problem before i go out blowing money on it trying to get it fixed.
Thanks
 


SahotaGTP said:
Hey everyone this is my first time posting on these boards.
I own a 1998 GTP and i bought it last summer, after i bought it i noticed that when you start it the car doesn't start right away but will take a good 3-4 secs to start but within 15 minutes of driving it around it will start normally. The wierd thing is that once in a while on a cold morning it will start normally.
Just wondering if anyone could please help me with this problem before i go out blowing money on it trying to get it fixed.
Thanks
Click to expand...

That could be any number of things. Perhaps a general tune-up may help.

new plugs and plug wires, clean the MAF and IAC, new fuel and air filter.

Welcome to the forum.btw
 
Welcome to the community.

I would add to what Indeed posted that you check all the main electrical leads from the battery as well as check the battery out. Look for any corrosion and such around the connecting points. As well I would even go to Autozone and have them hook up their battery and alternator tester (can be done in the vehicle) and see what they have to say.

Maybe even replace the fuel filter. I have YET to buy a used car that had anything other than the OEM factory fuel filter on it. Seem people dont give that item much thought.

Let us know what all you do so we can kinda check them off mentally and continue to help out if any of these things dont do the trick. But I would be in agreement with Indeed with just the information you gave us, its probably in need of a very good tune up.
 
new spark plugs, wires, check the coil packs for corrosion....that in itself can take it a while to start.

fuel filter

battery

battery terminals

all the listed in the above posts are really good ideas.
 
You make a very good point about the corrosion on the coil packs. I posed this question once in the other forum as to why this seemed to happen. My #3 coil pack terminal was heavily corroded when I bought the car, my boss's 3800 Bonneville had a heavily corroded terminal #1. A co-worker of mine with an L67 Regal had a corroded terminal #3. And in my search for information on this it seems the #1 and #3 terminals are the ones that seem to alway be corroded.
 
SyntheticShield said:
You make a very good point about the corrosion on the coil packs. I posed this question once in the other forum as to why this seemed to happen. My #3 coil pack terminal was heavily corroded when I bought the car, my boss's 3800 Bonneville had a heavily corroded terminal #1. A co-worker of mine with an L67 Regal had a corroded terminal #3. And in my search for information on this it seems the #1 and #3 terminals are the ones that seem to alway be corroded.
Click to expand...

i'd be surprised if some times #5 wasnt corroded also. I think it may have to do with which direction the current flow is on that particular terminal. (hoping that doesnt confuse anyone!)
 


UR LOSN said:
now your talking Quantum physics!!!!!! polarity.....
Click to expand...

Shows what you know, he wasnt talking about Quantum Physics, he was talking about the space time continuum. :D



Toasty, I used to work in electronic repair, component level even so you're speaking my language. Im sure UR LOSN can hang with us for a minute, LOL. (Just ribbin' ya, you're a pretty smart guy in my book)

I am curious though as to how you would come up with that idea (just kinda thinking out loud here). I know current has to flow positive to negative or negative to positive depending on your perspective, but with a spark plug, it shouldnt go back through the coils because the engine block would be the ground, plus there is no return path to the coils, at least through th spark plug anyway.

Now, having thought that out load, heres another proposition. We all (I assume we all do anyway) use anti-seize on the threads of the plugs. Could this be posing a problem withe current flow through the block? Maybe this is why some dont see any noticeable gains from ignition mods?

You know what Toasty, we may need to start a new thread so we dont hijack the guys search for help.
 
SyntheticShield said:
Shows what you know, he wasnt talking about Quantum Physics, he was talking about the space time continuum. :D



Toasty, I used to work in electronic repair, component level even so you're speaking my language. Im sure UR LOSN can hang with us for a minute, LOL. (Just ribbin' ya, you're a pretty smart guy in my book)

I am curious though as to how you would come up with that idea (just kinda thinking out loud here). I know current has to flow positive to negative or negative to positive depending on your perspective, but with a spark plug, it shouldnt go back through the coils because the engine block would be the ground, plus there is no return path to the coils, at least through th spark plug anyway.

Now, having thought that out load, heres another proposition. We all (I assume we all do anyway) use anti-seize on the threads of the plugs. Could this be posing a problem withe current flow through the block? Maybe this is why some dont see any noticeable gains from ignition mods?

You know what Toasty, we may need to start a new thread so we dont hijack the guys search for help.
Click to expand...


let me dig up the info i'm referencing, and I'll start a new post....

new thread here
http://www.grandprixforums.net/f18/diagnosing-corrosion-on-coil-pack-terminals-1334.html#post16980
 
Last edited:
surprised no one mentioned it, but i would put my money on the FPR leaking. pull the vacum line off, and see if you smell/see fuel. i bet you will. it starts fine on a cold morning, because the fuel in the vacumn line evaporated.
 


another thing, could possibly related to what phat_ridegt said. when you start the car, do you turn the key and wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to prime? if you havent been, try it and see if it makes a difference. if the FPR (Fuel pressure regulator-- little silver canister type thing on the front fuel line rail with a vac line on it) does have a leak, you might miss it. if the fuel pump is able to push the air out of the fuel line at start up, you'd likely not notice. but as far as the fuel present in the vac line, i agree. the regulator is controlled by a vaccum line and a diaphragm in the regulator. it's not uncommon for the diaphragm to get a tear/hole in it thus releasing fuel pressure, and in some cases, allowing fuel to get into the vaccum line... which messes with the operation of the regulator. --now depending on how long this has gone, how many miles are on the car, and how hard the fuel pump has been working, after changing the fuel pressure regulator (assuming that's the problem) it might actually be harder to start if the fuel pump has been weakened.... replacement of that MIGHT be required.
 
thanks so much for all the help so far.
i am going to take my car in tommorrow to get it checked out.
in regards to toasty when i turn the keys to start it will take 3-4 seconds to start. this has gone on since i bought the car, but not sure how long the previous owner had the problem going on for since he didn't mention the problem and i had to find out over the next couple of days myself. the car has 200,000kms on it.
 
SahotaGTP said:
thanks so much for all the help so far.
i am going to take my car in tommorrow to get it checked out.
in regards to toasty when i turn the keys to start it will take 3-4 seconds to start. this has gone on since i bought the car, but not sure how long the previous owner had the problem going on for since he didn't mention the problem and i had to find out over the next couple of days myself. the car has 200,000kms on it.
Click to expand...


what i meant, was this... when you start the car, turn the key to the "run" position... you should hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds, then stop. start car after this... see if it still takes your normal few more seconds to start, or if it pops right off
 
When you say it won't start do you mean it turns over but no start or it does not turn over for 3-4 seconds?

If it is not turning over I have no suggestion.
If it is turning over check that the realy for the fuel pump is pulling in when you turn the key. Normally you can turn off ALL your accessories, radio, fan, etc. turn the key and hear the fuel pump run for about 5 seconds, this primes the fuel system if pressure has fallen while sitting with the engine stopped say overnight or all day while at work. The relay is normally held in with oil pressure while running. If you don't hear the pump while testing you can either put a gauge on the fuel test fitting on top of the engine in the back or check if the fuel relay is the same as the air conditioning or wiper relay and swap it out to test it and then buy another one if it is bad, they used to be about $12 at Auto Zone. I have had 3 go out on me, 2 on GPs and 1 on a Caprice. You may look at changing out your pressure regulator too as it may be leaking back. Hope this helps.
 
hey guys thanks for all the help so far.
i checked my fpr vaccum and surprisingly it isnt leaking.
to answer the last poster it turns over for 3-4 seconds and then starts.
the mechanic is now saying it could the camshaft sensor
any ideas on this
thanks
 


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