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How do you get the crank pulley/harmonic balancer off???

comongoose

comongoose

New member
I'm trying to pull the crank pulley off to get it on my l26. After breaking 2 sockets and one heavy duty wrench,I heated the lock bolt with a torch to finally get it off. Now, how do I slide the pulley off. I just picked up a pulley puller kit from harbor freight, and there is no thread to lock the three bolts into. I am almost certain the three jaw puller type won't work as there is probably no clearance behind it. Am i missing something or over looking something here? Also since i heated the bolt up and I also teared up some of the rubber on the cover, is it going to be okay to re-use the pulley or will i need a new one now? Thanks in advance.
 


You will need a puller. Do not use the JAW type. Use the bolt type.



You will need to take the crank bolt out. The go to lowes or home depo and buy 3 M6 - 1.00 75mm bolts and some washers to fit those bolts. Then make sure that the puller's main bolt goes all the way inside of the crank and does not hit the threads. Usually the main bolt size for the pulley is smaller than the inside dia of the female crank bolt hole.


Some pullers have a cone shaped peice that goes on the end of the main bolt for the pulley. If you can take that off then you could more than likley do it like i stated above. If not you'll have to put a deep socket where the crank bolt goes.


Then all you do is thread those three bolts through the slots in the ballancer. The washers are to prevent the head of the bolt from going through the slots in the puller. Usually the head is about the same size as the slots and when you're trying to pull it they will slip through.


If you need anything else just let me know.
 
The rubber that is in the middle of a ballancer is used to dampen crankshaft vibrations. If there is a BIG chunk out of it then I would recomend replacing it. If it's just scratched up or scared up then it should be ok to re-use.
 
Thanks TDC, you rock and your an insomniac like me! I wish GM didn't go so sketch with no real threads, I feel like its not suppose to go through those slots. BTW if you are bored and have any input on my last question I put on the bad compression thread I would be glad to hear your input. Thanks again.
 
I'm also trying to remove the harmonic balancer. Crank bolt is out. I'm using the bolt type puller, with grade 8.8 metric bolts.

Problem is that one of the bolts eventually gets pulled out. The threads on the engine are fine, just the bolts threads get busted.

The GM manual does not have a good picture. You're saying to remove the cone from the top of the puller and feed it all the way through?
Why exactly?

Thanks for any help.


TDCRacing said:
You will need a puller. Do not use the JAW type. Use the bolt type.



You will need to take the crank bolt out. The go to lowes or home depo and buy 3 M6 - 1.00 75mm bolts and some washers to fit those bolts. Then make sure that the puller's main bolt goes all the way inside of the crank and does not hit the threads. Usually the main bolt size for the pulley is smaller than the inside dia of the female crank bolt hole.


Some pullers have a cone shaped peice that goes on the end of the main bolt for the pulley. If you can take that off then you could more than likley do it like i stated above. If not you'll have to put a deep socket where the crank bolt goes.


Then all you do is thread those three bolts through the slots in the ballancer. The washers are to prevent the head of the bolt from going through the slots in the puller. Usually the head is about the same size as the slots and when you're trying to pull it they will slip through.


If you need anything else just let me know.
Click to expand...
 
put something over the threads of the puller otherwise youll screw up your crank bolt threads. i usually take the small 3/8" socket extension and throw it in there to stop the puller from going into it. has worked multiple times flawlessly.
 


dRomeo521 said:
I'm also trying to remove the harmonic balancer. Crank bolt is out. I'm using the bolt type puller, with grade 8.8 metric bolts.

Problem is that one of the bolts eventually gets pulled out. The threads on the engine are fine, just the bolts threads get busted.

The GM manual does not have a good picture. You're saying to remove the cone from the top of the puller and feed it all the way through?
Why exactly?

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...


Are you sure you're using the correct size and thread pitch bolts? Just make sure you thread them all the way in with a ratchet or wrench.


What take the cone off? 2 possible reasons but only one likley one.


If you don't take the cone off then it will not go past the harmonic ballancer (In other words it won't go past where the crank bolt head holds the ballancer on the crank. Make sense?) and you won't be able to pull the ballancer. Because you will be pulling against itself.


Or you will mess the threads up inside of the crank if the cone is small enough.



Just make sure the bolt bottoms out inside the crank and that it does not catch any of the threads.
 
I used the Harbor Freight puller to get the balancer off. Just like TDC said, get some M6 bolts from Lowe's with some washers so the bolt head doesn't slip through the puller slots. Put a 3/8" extension into the crank bolt hole to keep the puller bolt from bottoming out. It will come off no problem.

Here's a pic after I pulled the balancer.
BalancerOut.jpg
 
M6 x 1.0 bolts I believe will work but they still are not the correct size. The actual size of the threads is 1/4-28. Not such a standard bolt thread but thats what it is and I think they need to be 3-1/2" long or thereabouts.
 
SyntheticShield said:
M6 x 1.0 bolts I believe will work but they still are not the correct size. The actual size of the threads is 1/4-28. Not such a standard bolt thread but thats what it is and I think they need to be 3-1/2" long or thereabouts.
Click to expand...

this man is correct. i have these bolts hanging out with my puller at home.
 
Well last night when i was going to sleep I realized that I was just pulling the puller against itself. It looked like the balancer would slip over, obviously i was wrong. But anyways. Thanks for all the replies and help. I'm sure it'll come right off now.

I've been using M6x1.0 bolts. I have 1/4-28's layin around the garage that I could use if that's the actual size.

The reason im taking off the balancer is so that i can take the front of the engine off. The engine is making a really loud noise, like something is banging around in there. The car runs fine, just extremely noisey. But I can search the forums for any similar problems, or start a new thread.

Thanks for the all the help.





TDCRacing said:
Are you sure you're using the correct size and thread pitch bolts? Just make sure you thread them all the way in with a ratchet or wrench.


What take the cone off? 2 possible reasons but only one likley one.


If you don't take the cone off then it will not go past the harmonic ballancer (In other words it won't go past where the crank bolt head holds the ballancer on the crank. Make sense?) and you won't be able to pull the ballancer. Because you will be pulling against itself.


Or you will mess the threads up inside of the crank if the cone is small enough.



Just make sure the bolt bottoms out inside the crank and that it does not catch any of the threads.
Click to expand...
 


Good idea to take the cover off and peek inside. It's possible that the tensioner broke and the metal part is banging against the timing chain. That is somewhat of a common problem, and if not fixed, could lead to a broken timing chain.

I just checked mine after 150,000 miles and found a nice chip in the tensioner. The missing chip was in the oil pan.

TensionerWear.jpg
 
I used the above methods to pull my balancer. Worked great. Syth is right on the bolts, and the ones I used are 3.5" long. Make sure you thread them in good and even. I pulled one out because it wasn't in far enough and they weren't even. Also make sure you use some washers or you will gouge the puller you're using with the bolt heads. My washers looked like BlackGS's when I was done, so if I had to do it again I'd triple stack some washers for strength or find some Grade 8 washers.

Once it starts pulling it's easy after that. I lol'd when I looked in my haynes and it said it should pull off by hand. I don't want to meet that guy in a dark alley. :eek:
 


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