stock pulley 99% of time, 3.4 for 2 track days per year?

[hockeymaniak88]

Ok here's the deal. Just picked up a 98 GTP with 15k miles. I'm installing a K&N intake only. and I'm getting the Quickchange pulley system from pfyc. I'm getting the 3.8(stock) and 3.4 pulleys.

What i want to do is run the 3.8 with the K&N 99% of the time for daily driving. I only go to the track maybe 1-2 times per year which is when I plan on using the 3.4. Will it be safe to run the 3.4 with only a K&N for about 4 runs 1-2 times per year? (Keep in mind i'm not even going to drive to/from the track with the 3.4 on)

I had lengthy talks with ZZP, 3800 performance, and PFYC and they all said it's "absolutely not an issue". What do you guys think?

 

[kingd44]

i can tell u nobody on this site is going to agree with that.........more supporting mods are needed to drop pulley sizes

 

[Rather B Blown]

yeah man, you should get more supporting mods before dropping, even if it is for a short time. i doubt you'll run any faster with the 3.4 anyway with all the KR you'd have. Just what i think.

 

[dmoney01]

i have a 3.4, k&n intake, u bend delete, res delete, colder plugs,180stat, gator back belt, poly motor mounts, and my car runs just fine but everyone on here says that i need to change the pulley and get more mods for some reason and i dont believe that is true. were i got my pulley it said the mods needed for each size and for a 3.4 the mods were colder plugs, colder stat, gator belt, and intake and minor exaust work if you wanted but everyone on here says i need to put the stock pulley back on and dont get why

 

[TDCRacing]

Yeah well next time you talk with them you ask them if they are going to buy you a new engine when that one blows up.


If you don't mind send me all of those emails I would really appreciate it.

[email protected]



Anyway I can promise you that you will end up hurting you're engine by doing that. Who ever you talked to you can say that I said they are full of dog ****.


Bottom line is no one can tell you what you can/can't run with out scanning. but I can promise you you will have quite a bit of of KR doing what these jack asses say.

 

[TDCRacing]

i have a 3.4, k&n intake, u bend delete, res delete, colder plugs,180stat, gator back belt, poly motor mounts, and my car runs just fine but everyone on here says that i need to change the pulley and get more mods for some reason and i dont believe that is true. were i got my pulley it said the mods needed for each size and for a 3.4 the mods were colder plugs, colder stat, gator belt, and intake and minor exaust work if you wanted but everyone on here says i need to put the stock pulley back on and dont get why

Have you scanned you're car?? You can not feel KR enless it is in the 10 plus range.

And FYI a resignator deleate,gatorback belt,poly mounts and a 180 stat has nothing to do with what size pulley you can run.



People can say what ever they want to make you buy what they have. No two cars act even close to the same.

 

[Bio248]

i will agree that you can do that and ill stand by it. you wont knock enough to blow anything up, but the car wont be as fast as it could be. it will be faster than with the stock pulley, but not by a ton. the car will whine a bit more, thats fun.

there is absolutely no reason you cant buy a $150 downpipe with your pulley system just to be a little safer and faster though. if you have enough money for a pulley and to go to the track then you should heavily consider modding more intelligently. ZZP has a fantastic "stage 1" package for sale now that is not only easy to install, but cheaper than buying it in pieces unless you get used parts.

 

[TDCRacing]

I just DO NOT understand WHY our vendors would give this kind of info to the Grand prix community.

It is FAR from the RIGHT way to go about doing this.

 

[Bio248]

yes, yes it is, but the fact is that there are plenty of people out there who will take the easy, cheap way out of it in order to make it faster. it can be done, but it is not the correct way to do it.

these cars really haven't been into as much as people think. look at people like mark tischler who have been making retarded fast 3800s forever. the bottom end can be built, the heads can be made amazingly better than even the stage 3 vendor heads, etc. the main thing that the vendors out there are good for are intercoolers and cams, but even those could be possibly made better.

to the OP: do it if you want, but you really should look into other stuff to add with it to make the best of the pulley. it is not just about making more boost.

 

[TDCRacing]

Yeah. On another note I saw a set of ticshler heads for sale the other day. MAN did they look amazing. I did not know who he was untill you mentioned his name in the post.

 

[Iron Indian]

What i want to do is run the 3.8 with the K&N 99% of the time for daily driving. I only go to the track maybe 1-2 times per year which is when I plan on using the 3.4. Will it be safe to run the 3.4 with only a K&N for about 4 runs 1-2 times per year? (Keep in mind i'm not even going to drive to/from the track with the 3.4 on)

So you want a slower car and harm your motor? Sound like you should stay far far away from pullies dude.

A CAI and a 3.4" with no other mods will run slower and have a **** ton of KR. I've already tested this theory on my black car years ago to see what I would get. The car was exactly 1 sec slower w/ the same 60ft. This was of course on pump gas. I had to prove to a few idiots that Pulley doesn't = instant HP.

Again people, whats the obsession with getting a damn pulley for a first mod? I don't get it? I just posted this same **** a few days ago. Who gives a ****? It ain't gonna get you laid.

The ONLY way with just a CAI you'll be able to run a smaller pulley safely is if you have unleaded race fuel, not sure what octane, but you'll need it to kill the 15 degrees of KR you'll have as it sits (I bet its getting 5 degrees of KR as it sits now anyway). Octane level you'd have to play with. Is this worth it? No and I'd doubt you'd be much faster either.

Mod properly or don't mod at all. Unless you like you're **** not to work properly...

 

[TDCRacing]

So you want a slower car and harm your motor? Sound like you should stay far far away from pullies dude.

A CAI and a 3.4" with no other mods will run slower and have a **** ton of KR. I've already tested this theory on my black car years ago to see what I would get. The car was exactly 1 sec slower w/ the same 60ft. This was of course on pump gas. I had to prove to a few idiots that Pulley doesn't = instant HP.

Again people, whats the obsession with getting a damn pulley for a first mod? I don't get it? I just posted this same **** a few days ago. Who gives a ****? It ain't gonna get you laid.

The ONLY way with just a CAI you'll be able to run a smaller pulley safely is if you have unleaded race fuel, not sure what octane, but you'll need it to kill the 15 degrees of KR you'll have as it sits (I bet its getting 5 degrees of KR as it sits now anyway). Octane level you'd have to play with. Is this worth it? No and I'd doubt you'd be much faster either.

Mod properly or don't mod at all. Unless you like you're **** not to work properly...

Agree 100%. I saw you're post about it BTW

 

[blueguy]

i have a 3.4, k&n intake, u bend delete, res delete, colder plugs,180stat, gator back belt, poly motor mounts, and my car runs just fine but everyone on here says that i need to change the pulley and get more mods for some reason and i dont believe that is true. were i got my pulley it said the mods needed for each size and for a 3.4 the mods were colder plugs, colder stat, gator belt, and intake and minor exaust work if you wanted but everyone on here says i need to put the stock pulley back on and dont get why

Just catching this thread...and honestly it is guys like you that tell poor guys like him that it isn't going to hurt...btw I love how you add "resonator delete, gatorback belts, and poly mounts" as KR fighting mods LOL That one got me...you don't even have a tune chief...

a 3.4" is GOING to harm that car...we know what were talking about...thanks for the input though:th_angry2:

I highly doubt he wants to install another motor or even got slower if it doesn't blow up...I'd like to say that I learned the hard way about a year ago or so when I shot a piston into the oil pan...why you ask?

I HAD A 3.4" PULLEY WITH WAY MORE MODS!! ROCKERS, PCM, PEM's, Ported TB/SC, etc...AND I STILL BLEW IT UP.

*end rant*

Honestly...like Shawn says...get...

180*/160* T-Stat
PCM (DHP, Overkill, Intense...NOT ZZP)
Autolite 104's/NGK TR55's
3" DP (cat or not up to you)
U-Bend Delete
THEN MAYBE drop to the 3.4"/3.5" with a tuner/scanner...

Hopefully you take the advice we are giving you...sure would hate to see a GTP go boom:th_lipssealed2:

 

[blueguy]

I just DO NOT understand WHY our vendors would give this kind of info to the Grand prix community.

It is FAR from the RIGHT way to go about doing this.

Anything now-a-days to make a quick buck, even if it hurts the customer...they don't give a rats ass

ZZP = 48th Street Corner Whore...

 

[blowfishRus6]

i dont even see why people include intake either as a supporting mod. intake crames more air into your engine. you knock because theres to much hot air in the motor, so lets drop pullies, add more hot air to the motor, then add an intake with that to add even more air into the motor???

EXHAUST mods should be first priority!! gotta get the hot air out, not craming more air into the motor.

its like a fat kid eating scarfing down cake with his butt hole sewed up, the ****er is going to explode sooner or later.

 

[blowfishRus6]

atleast get a p-log and downpipe. and even then i would run race gas to menimize knock. if not then the smaller pulley is worthless.

knock pulls timing to help save the motor, pulled timing = SLOW car.

 

[Sabrewings]

i have a 3.4, k&n intake, u bend delete, res delete, colder plugs,180stat, gator back belt, poly motor mounts, and my car runs just fine but everyone on here says that i need to change the pulley and get more mods for some reason and i dont believe that is true. were i got my pulley it said the mods needed for each size and for a 3.4 the mods were colder plugs, colder stat, gator belt, and intake and minor exaust work if you wanted but everyone on here says i need to put the stock pulley back on and dont get why

Have your car scanned for knock. You'd probably reconsider if you could see what your engine is going through every day.

 

[Scimmia]

I just DO NOT understand WHY our vendors would give this kind of info to the Grand prix community.

It is FAR from the RIGHT way to go about doing this.

It's just old info. Intake/ubend delete then dropping to a 3.4" pulley used to be common, a little bit of KR was considered acceptable.

Of course, CGP had thread after thread of people popping pistons back then; what a shock.

 

[TDCRacing]

It's just old info. Intake/ubend delete then dropping to a 3.4" pulley used to be common, a little bit of KR was considered acceptable.

Of course, CGP had thread after thread of people popping pistons back then; what a shock.

Yeah. I know it's general. But these guys not knowing anything about these cars think this is exactly what they need, And buy it. I thought that too myself. I started asking questions and became informed very quickly. Thanks god.


I actually almost bought a ZZP pcm.

 

[Bio248]

you will not blow up your car with a 3.4. i have been running untuned with my 3.4 for almost two years with around 5-6* of knock. i beat on it daily and it just takes it as it comes. maybe im lucky, but i dont think a 3.4 is a big enough step for it to matter. hell, SLP put a 3.5 on some GTXs with just an intake and some rockers. that has got to tell you something.