I've had the prototype version of the stainless Speed Daddy headers (SLP clone... previously called SSAC, DPP, etc.) since 2006, and couldn't be happier for spending under $200. Dyno tested with my XP/GenV/L36 block setup with a 25whp gain and ran down to 12.7 @ 111mph in street trim that year.
Speed Daddy Pro-Tips:
- Use the Torca-style clamps, and leave the flanges loose while you connect the crossover, starting with the rear header first.
- Replace the flex pipe with a ZZP one right away, and have a good welder use stainless TIG method to swap it, if you can. I actually moved the v-band clamp up to the collector, and the flex on the downpipe side of the v-band.
- wipe down before start so grime doesn't make them ugly, and re-wipe when cold occasionally to keep shiny (same for any bare Stainless header)
ZZP's are beautiful, but you'll pay 2-3x the price to have them, and they're inventory is a bit slower to restock lately. The diameter is a bit bigger, but only a big cam, 11sec/400+whp car is going to notice a tangible benefit (If I was putting my MP112 setup back in a GP/Regal/etc., I might go for them as I chased 11's/10's with it... otherwise I'd get SpeedDaddy's again in a heartbeat.)
I'd avoid mild steel ones, even coated, if possible. Coating is a nice bonus on stainless, as SLP, TOG, and some others may have offered years ago
All headers will require some tweaking of the trans dipstick, and all but ZZP's may require giving some firewall/swaybar clearance for the O2 sensor.