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L/F wheel bearing GP 2008

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ibra0078

New member
Going to try to tackle changing the wheel bearing on the driverside in my GP 2008 as it's making noise. Right one was already replaced few months ago from at local garage as it was way to cold outside for me to do it. Anyways it looks straight forward however any useful tips People might have? Any special tools I need to take out the wheel hub? Is the axel nut socket size 34 or 36? What are the torque specifications for the wheel hub bolts and the axel nut. Thanks

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No special tools, unless you don't have the tools listed below.

13mm socket
15mm socket
19mm socket
Ratchet
breaker bar or air gun
Coat hanger or something to hang the caliper on the spring
Hammer (3lb+ preferrable)
Jack
Jack stand
Torque wrench if you want to be precise. I always gunned the axle nut back on and didn't have troubles.

Axle nut if stock should be a 34mm. A lot of replacement axles come with a 36mm.
 
Thanks, would you know the torque specifications for the axel nut and wheel hub nuts when putting them back on

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wheel bearing you buy likely has a scrap of paper with what it wants.

There's a torque spec thread in the How to Section. I think FiveFingerDeathPunch posted it or in it. I wouldn't know those specs.. you won't get a good straight shot at the bearing bolts, so tight works and the the axle nut is another nice and tight will work fine...there is a spec though.
 


118 lbs is correct. If you can fit your axle nut thru the wheel center cap, it's easier to torque with the wheel attached and on the ground. And if you haven't bought the bearing yet, I would recommend Moog.
 
You can also have a helper standing on the brakes, jam a little something in the rotor fin up against the caliper bracket. It all works.
 
To crack the hub nut, put the spare tire on, lower the car back to the ground, and have at her. I cheated with a 5" roof rack bar. LOL

Wheel_Bearing_003.JPG
 
i used to be able to the spare tire trick, but the spare dont fit over f body brakes.

now i drop a screw driver in the fin of the rotor. bent the last one good lol
 
I've thought about doing it that way. I went uber lazy and bought one of these instead. LOL

Tools_002.JPG



Will be changing the right front bearing AGAIN in a few weeks. Must be the 4th time in about 6 years.
 


i got two warranties out of one bought hub, one was defective, the other one well i gave em my old pass side hub lol aka free hub.
 
Applying the Brakes Is a good idea, thanks changing it tonight will let you guys know how it goes. The torque​ specs for the wheel hub 3 bolts seems to be 96ft. Does that look accurate?

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Well the wheel hub was so rusted and it took some force to get it out. I had to use heat to loosen the bolts. I tried to use the pulley to push back the axel but it did not want to move at all. Stupid me I forgot to put back the axel nut and hammer that but instead I hammered and hammered the axel shaft itself and now the few first threads are pretty much dented and it's Impossible to get the axel nut back on. Any tricks I can do as I really don't want to get this towed
672f393b3cd4e3b4290e41e96f0755eb.jpg
ea23e147c7fc2ce29d0f7035ebe83a66.jpg


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Your fcked is the correct answer. You can either A buy a new axle, or B buy the tool that will shave off the end of the axle and your nut will go back on. Google it and find what it is, you did the damage so time to do your homework
 
You might be able to get away with using a grinder and smoothing the first threads out so you can get the threads started. It'd be a challenge, but it's already f*cked anyway. I guess it's a learning lesson for you, best of luck.
 
A file or dremel may restore the threads. Being that those threads aren't really necessary, you could grind the first 2-3 thread down until you can get the nut started.
 
It was taking way to long using a dremel so I decided to replace the axel shaft. Replaced it within few minutes and put everything back together and all is good. Thanks everybody for all your help, I guess you live you learn.

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