Stuff just gets easier after awhile I reckon. Prime example: Backtrack here and see how long it took to mount the driver's door. I had this one hung on new hinges by lunch today starting from scratch! I even made the latch pillar patch and have it sorta tacked in. Its fun work if you don't mind sparks and most of it is done using just a handful of tools.
Rinse, repeat:
That pic shows something learned at practice. When you trim the pockets, the nut plate retainer falls off. So I tacked it farther back.
Yeah that door isn't shut because my pillar patch for the new striker is tacked but not yet trimmed. This door doesn't have the same gap problem as bad but has one or two different areas of conflict. I won't bore you with abundant details on this side but will show any gap fixes. As you see, I left the old hinges hanging and just sawzall'ed the pillar wood and metal all at once so I could say I had this door on by lunch.
If theres a juicy cut of meat in this thread, its the next three paragraphs-
My tube assembly only needed one cut and re-tack and its all good so far. The hinge pockets are 15 3/4" apart on the brace and if you're doing this at home, cut right through the outer screw hole on the old lower hinge mount, and put the upper tube's outer top corner pointing at that screw by the marked silver box in the pic. Stay just inside the skin's edge.
Rotate hinge assembly until lower hinge pin nut is 1/8" from the quarter skin and almost against the inner pillar, and top hinge allows full closing. Leave just enough room for lower pin removal. You'll have one bolt hole left on the wood bracket inside the quarter and the upper hinge pin goes behind that. The upper tube will be recessed slightly from the face of the pillar and the tube brace and tubes will be tilted outward at the top. Tack tubes then hold door up and mark hinge location for pocket cutouts.
Mount the pockets only about as deep as the hinge is thick. It doesn't have to be flush with the door shell and the limiting factor is the window travel. Keep the nut plate backside even with the window track and it should clear although its possible channel trimming may be necessary. Bolts should be trimmed to a length as to be flush with the nut plate backside when installed. Simple, really!