• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

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    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

FS: DHP Tuning Setup (Laptop, DHP, PLX WB O2)

TommyGloves

TommyGloves

New member
I'm selling one of my tuning setups. Selling as a package. Invest in yourself...become a 3800 tuning god!

You just need a good OBDII port, install the WB in your DP and 12v power and ground for the PLX wideband!

This is all setup and ready to go!

Dell Inspiron 700m Laptop
------------------------------
* Replaced LCD last year with a Dell replacement
* Newer, genuine Dell 8-cell battery (Battery is still healthy...see pic)
* Genuine Dell AC Adapter
* Fresh Windows 7 Pro - Minimal software installed on top.
* 2GB RAM, 2.0ghz M CPU, Wifi, DVD Burner
* I've pre-installed all the DHP, UVScan 2 and 3, Tiny Tuner Suite, etc.
* All drivers installed and tuning software setup out of the box
* Everything works and it's in great shape

DHP PowrTuner AVT-841
----------------------------------------------------
* Keyspan adapter included
* Pre-wired A/D Inputs (1: PLX WB O2, 2: PLX NB O2, 3: Open pigtail for a 3rd sensor or signal wire. I ran an Autometer fuel pressure sender.)

PLX SM-AFR (Gen II)
-----------------------
* Like New Bosch Wideband O2 sensor (has ~1,000 miles on it)
* Just need to connect 12v power and ground
* Modified to allow a direct, digital serial communication (works with a special version of UVScan II installed on the laptop. It's the serial cable coming out of the PLX. Connects to a USB port on the laptop . https://forum.efilive.com/showthrea...Serial-upgrade&p=129268&viewfull=1#post129268)
* Includes the blue USB to Serial adapter pictured as well

I'll include a Windows 7 Pro Recovery CD and backup CD of the tuner software.

Package Price: $500 picked up in Palatine, IL. UPS/FedEx Shipping, Insurance and 3% Paypal are extra.

Shipping from Palatine, IL

PM or post with questions. Not looking to part this out at this time. Thanks for looking!





 
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Noob question, I assume you have to add another O2 bung for the wideband? Or can you remove pre-cat O2 and insert wideband just for tuning?

Rick
GTPMayhem
 
you can add a bung or delete the rear o2 and put the wb there. you need the other o2 all the time.

and do you have a gauge for the wb or is it for direct hook up to the laptop? curious about the cable off the plx box there. how does that work? im still trying to get mine to read right on a scan.
 
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Scottydoggs said:
you can add a bung or delete the rear o2 and put the wb there. you need the other o2 all the time.

and do you have a gauge for the wb or is it for direct hook up to the laptop? curious about the cable off the plx box there. how does that work? im still trying to get mine to read right on a scan.
Click to expand...


if it is like my wideband, on my wideband there is a serial output/input cable so if plx has software, you can see what the gauge is reading on your computer. on mine, you can also program the gauge itself, like speed up or slow down the data rate, or change the colors that the gauge shows. the serial output is really only useful for programming because you can't incorporate any other data to display with it.
 
Scottydoggs said:
do you have a gauge for the wb or is it for direct hook up to the laptop? curious about the cable off the plx box there. how does that work? im still trying to get mine to read right on a scan.
Click to expand...

I do not have a the gauge, I just had the serial cable connected to the laptop via usb. Steven Chesser had made a version that allowed the direct serial connection with UVScanII back in the day. It worked much like the direct connection he did with the Innovate WBs. That's what's installed on the laptop.

I believe the guage you are talking about hooks into the headphone-style port on the PLX box. This is also a serial style communications. It just sends the AFR data bits to the guage for display.
 
is there a schematic to make that cable? looks simple enough, just need to know what wires to tie together from the plug there to the serial cable.
 
Scottydoggs said:
is there a schematic to make that cable? looks simple enough, just need to know what wires to tie together from the plug there to the serial cable.
Click to expand...

Scottydoggs said:
is there a schematic to make that cable? looks simple enough, just need to know what wires to tie together from the plug there to the serial cable.
Click to expand...

Its in this thread somewhere...lol..start on Page 9: https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?7726-PLX-SM-AFR-Serial-upgrade
You're just tapping power, ground and signal. I can open the box and take a pic on where I hooked it up.

This looks like it might work (its a later post in that thread): http://www.ebay.com/itm/200983912175?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Here's pics of the modification. Feel free to move all of this to a new thread.





The zip tie is for strain relief on the cable inside the enclosure.


 


So the community DB is full. I shared a folder/file with the Community DB from my DB. You can find the PLX version (UVSCAN2.0-61209A-DirectPLXSMAFR.zip) under the Share section. (https://www.dropbox.com/share)

You'll need to go to the Setup menu tab in UV to tell it what com port the PLX is hooked up too. The PLX Direct PID is under the Fake PID -> PLX AFR WIDEBAND DIRECT. It's hard-coded to 14.7 AFR scale.
 


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