• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

What are these lines? Transmission? Power steering?

Drive XR7

Drive XR7

New member
I am addressing a few leaks on my 01 GTP. I know it has a power steering leak, because the pump whines loudly and I have to top it off often. I'm not sure if this is a power steering line, or a transmission line. I checked both today, and found both to be low.

It's a red fluid that is leaking from this spot, doesn't smell like anything particular. I am using Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, which is also red. The Dextron is also red, so I'm not sure what kind of line this is. It leaves a sizable puddle, as you can see from these pics. This was after sitting for only 10-15 mins or so. These lines are located at the front of the car, underneath the cooling fans. They are rusty, and I've tried to illuminate them as best I could with a flashlight so you can see. You can also see clearly how the air dam is cover with this fluid as it leaks quickly.

They are illuminated, rusty:
20151010_154232_zpsjta21yum.jpg


Notice the puddle that has formed after only 15 mins:
20151010_154244_001_zpsd9t7rsmf.jpg
 


ACDELCO 10330106 Upper/Return
ACDELCO 10330105 Lower/Supply

Should only need a 13mm socket (support strap holds lines to the transmission) and a pick of some sort (to remove the retaining clips from the fittings). Wouldn't hurt to have a drain pan handy either.
 


Personally without looking at it I couldn't say. Yes its a line. Does it have all the bends in the right places not sure you need to look at it really closely to make sure.
 
Edit never mind other Brandon beat me to it
Did my post confuse you? BLAME AUTOCORRECT!
 
Last edited:
Drive XR7 said:
Awesome! Thank you!

Found this. Looks like all I need: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsX9ciELVLE
Click to expand...

No problem. Yeah, it's not difficult. Some suggestions...
1.) Have a magnet of some sort ON the clip as you remove it. I've done this every time I pull one of those, and have yet to lose one.
2.) Cut the old line in the rubber section before removing it. It's junk anyway. The full length line is going to want to hang up on it's way out and dribble fluid all over the place. Why fight it?
3.) Put the clip in the empty fitting, THEN push the line in. That way you don't have to try to hold with one hand while fighting to put the clip in with the other.
 


Drive XR7 said:
For anyone else that stumbles upon this, here are the links:

Outlet line: http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10330106-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B001UEB2WK
Inlet line: http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10330105-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0031I4WBQ
Connector: http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-60...tor-Truck/dp/B000CIR1R0/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_z

I bought a few connectors in case I break or lose the old ones during removal.
Click to expand...

You don't need new "connectors." FYI, the feed and return fittings are different.
 
ericspecullaas said:
You need some very expensive tools to remove them lines. Each one costs 100 bucks. You will need pipe wrenches to remove them
Click to expand...


im just not sure wtf your talking about here. theres no expensive tools needed.

id hit a junk yard for a new one.

or fix yours with a compression fitting, cut the line where its bad out, join the two sides with the compression fitting.
 
Going to have to respectfully disagree with Scotty. Anything you find in a junkyard will likely be as bad as what you have now. If you do decide to do the repair thing, I wouldn't use compression fittings. The integrity of those lines is already questionable due to the rust. Probably be better to completely cut out the steel section and replace with rubber line and barb fittings. Double hose clamped. Food for thought, a busted cooler line could cost you a transmission. Is that where you want to scrimp?
 
rubber line is worse then a compression fitting.

had a car burn up in my driveway from a rubber hose on a trans line. ill never use them. compression fittings? those have never failed me.

theres no real pressure in a trans line either. but there is heat. heat kills the rubber lines. even reinforced rubber hose will fail someday.

in his pic you can see the S curve part is the leak. cut that part out. add a new piece of line with compression fittings. or get a flair tool and flare and union them back together, still way cheaper then a 100 a line new.

and im sure you could just put straight pipe in to replace it too.
 


id rather have my car back working the next day, by mid morning its done and ready to take me to work on monday morning.

hell if it was mine it would be patched up already lol and the repair would be posted in the what you do to your car thread. lol i, like most only have one car.
 
I have a few cars, only drive GP if I'm by myself (without my family), and its a crappy day.

I bought new from Amazon, minus the connectors per the recommendation from Brandon. The lines are cheap enough to just buy new, $37-$40 each.
 
Replaced the lines today. I nearly lost one of the E rings when trying to put it back on upper radiator fitting. It fell but didn't hit the ground, landed on some plastic. By sheer luck I swabbed around with a magnetic telescoping tool and found it. Phew!

It took about 2 hours to remove and replace both, taking my time because I have not done this job before. The hardest part was wrestling the old lines loose once I got the fittings off. Another challenging part was actually finding the flared end of the E ring with the pick. Sometimes it was facing away from me. I bought a pick set from Autozone, used more than a few of the picks. I also soaked the fittings in PB Blaster to loosen them up. Another good tip from Brandon was to install the E ring FIRST, then push the new line in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top