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New Project: 1989 Fullsize V10/K5 Blazer

RivMan said:
Good looking truck! I've got a 1990 K5 that's my current project. I also love the older 73-79 front ends, but the 89-91 one has grown on me.

I'm working on a full convertible swap for mine, and planning on a 5.3 swap in the future.

SilverLake.jpg


-Rob
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That's a nice K5 you have there yourself! And thanks! I honestly don't wanna do a 5.3 swap, I'm just gonna run 350 or 400 SBC and go on, I love my carburetors.
 


Retarded the timing, once I did my mark moved down where I could see it, didn't matter though cause there isn't a timing mark.. I went by ear and how it ran on idle and under load, loads better however there is a flat spot on take off, I'm thinking after it gets new plugs/wires/cap and rotor Friday I'll adjust the Air/Fuel another 1/2 turn on the screws and try that.
 
Turned the Air/Fuel screws out another 1/2 turn, so they are both out 2 turns. Tried the 4x4 for the first time today, hubs lock in, transfer case goes to 4H, when trying to shift into 4L it doesn't go past 4H, it's like it hits a brick wall, so that's a clue as to something being ****ed up in the case.

I gave Bill Young at Young's Differential in Tulsa, OK a call, he's been in business 40 some odd years and after I told him what I had and walked him through on what I did, he walked me through on a few other things to check as well, determined something, possibly the chain or the shift fork inserts, are messed up in the case not allowing it to shift, so from there I have the option of taking it off and taking it to him and having him crack it open and give her a looking over and fixing what ever is wrong, or I can buy the rebuild kit from American Powertrain Warehouse along with the chain and just go through everything myself, the chain is $85 and the kit is $79.
 


GooberDoggs said:
at a full stop put the truck tranny in N then shift to 4L. most wont go into low moving, or out of low moving.
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I shifted the t-case stopped in park and neutral, backed it up, stopped, tried again, no shifting into N or 4L.

Called Bill Young back, he's almost certain the slider and the low range fork is messed up in the case, said pending if it's been run out of oil and how much wear it has he could have me OTD around $300.
 
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or just check the fluid and drive on, cause 4 low is almost worthless unless pulling stumps.

its been years since i had a truck with locking hubs, but iirc the drive shaft turns when the hubs are locked still. when the hubs are un locked the wheels spins free of the rear, as long as the trucks in 2 hi the front drive shaft should not move when the hubs are unlocked unless its in 4wd.


all these new trucks today that whole front axle and the drive shaft spin all the time. talk about parasitic loss. and thats because you cant unlock the hubs no more.
 
GooberDoggs said:
or just check the fluid and drive on, cause 4 low is almost worthless unless pulling stumps.

its been years since i had a truck with locking hubs, but iirc the drive shaft turns when the hubs are locked still. when the hubs are un locked the wheels spins free of the rear, as long as the trucks in 2 hi the front drive shaft should not move when the hubs are unlocked unless its in 4wd.


all these new trucks today that whole front axle and the drive shaft spin all the time. talk about parasitic loss. and thats because you cant unlock the hubs no more.
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Driveshaft should lock and spin in 4H or 4L whether the hubs are engaged or not, I thought it didn't til I just tried it and discovered it did, so that means when the hubs are unlocked, the shaft locks in, but the shifter won't shift past 4H cause the stupid little crappy fork in there for low range is bad.. It doesn't spin in 2H like you mentioned, even with the hubs engaged.

I'm afraid if I don't fix it, the damned thing will just blow apart on me... course if that was gonna happen I'd have figured it already would have.. I'll do a fluid change and check it all out though when I do the trans flush and filter change.
 
The drive shaft should spin if the hubs are engaged, even if the transfer case is in 2H. Something is goin on there...
 
the syncros go bad inside too. my brothers would not stay in 4wd, you had to hold the shiftier or it would slide out.

my brothers 85. i liked this truck new 350 crate engine, frame off resto bed from tx cab from who knows where doors too, new tail gate and all new front clip and hood. and a paint job that cost 5 grand. then he tossed a pair of dana's under it. it sat for a few years and he sold it last year.

its that gm orange on the gto's iirc

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he picked this up too, 87 burban iirc. fixed it up some got it painted, it also started to sit, so it got sold off like 5 years ago for about 5 grand iirc.

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Dumb question, but did the shifter move left to right when attempting to go to N/4lo? There's a step in the shifter gate that you have to slide the shifter to the right and down to hit those gears. I had a buddy that couldn't hit N/4lo and there was something jamming up that linkage.

-Rob
 
Booba5185 said:
The drive shaft should spin if the hubs are engaged, even if the transfer case is in 2H. Something is goin on there...
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It's just like a rear shaft Booba, it shouldn't move with the transfer case in 4WD, that means that the transfer case is transferring the power to the front shaft, thus spinning the front axles with the hubs locked in. Once in 2H the front shaft will spin. That's how you determine if you're hubs are bad, put it in 2H and lock them in, spin the shaft and you should hear them engage.

RivMan said:
Dumb question, but did the shifter move left to right when attempting to go to N/4lo? There's a step in the shifter gate that you have to slide the shifter to the right and down to hit those gears. I had a buddy that couldn't hit N/4lo and there was something jamming up that linkage.

-Rob
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Rob, I moved the shifter to the right after the 4H shift, it was still like hitting a wall, just wouldn't move down at all after 4H.
 


Anybody got any ideas on what the chromed piece is on the back of this Edelbrock 1805 Carburetor? I'm thinking it's a setup to run the primaries with the secondaries like how Holley has some of their carbs.. I'm thinking it's giving me too much fuel, I had to kick my RPM's down a bit, advance my timing and mess with air/fuel to get a flat spot out of the carb and it was dieseling like no other again! Intake has an oil leak too, thinking that may have a factor in the dieseling, it's sucking air along with leaking oil.

20150820_124357_zpskmw2ugx9.jpg


It seems to have stopped doing it as bad. I'm gonna eventually get a 1405 for it and get rid of this POS 1805, I believe this setup at the moment is too much carburetor for this engine.

Side note, it doesn't have TBI heads, the heads aren't centerbolt valve cover heads, they are regular 1959-1986 SBC Valve Covers, which means I'm gonna buy the Black Crinkle finish Edelbrock's for it at work.
 
Looks like I'm gonna pull the carb off, rebuild it, rid it of the dual flow BS and seal up my intake and such while everything is off.
 
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