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Voltage issues



J57ltr said:
What year is your car? 04+ the voltage varies between 12.5-15.5V depending on conditions.

Jeff
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Yes but when I had it tested they said that it seemed like a bad voltage regulator and mines an 06 he said that from 05-start of 07 those parts are bad.

it just fluctuates more then it should imo
 
Trust me it's normal. It will start out at about 14.6 after starting the car and if you get out on the freeway it will drop to 12.5 then after about 20-30 minutes of driving it will jump to 13.8 for about 5 minutes then back down to 12.5. When you have the lights on it will hold 13.8. There is a current sensor on the negative battery cable that calculates load and will adjust the the output accordingly. The testers at most parts stores are not capable of giving the alternator a PWM signal nor the ability to use the sense wire correctly.
i literally logged hours upon hours of driving proving this and we also had an entire discussion about this not long ago. Booba also had an article that described exactly what I am saying related to GM charging strategy. It even monitors the battery when parked overnight to determine part of the strategy.

Jeff
 
It is giving me issues though Jeff, I have a 1200w rms sound system and when I played it originally lets say at 13v the sensor would see the load and rise up to 15 this is all fine and dandy until when the bass hits my dic would dim and it would read 14.6 then 15.2 and such and it would be much slower to react so sometimes it would look like 15.6 because the second part (.6) hadn't caught up to where it would go (.0) then I got system charging failure


I have the old sensor that was superseded thats why I'm asking
 


You can get the new part number sensor if you like, but you really need is more battery. Use the largest one that you can physically fit into the tray and another one in the rear.

please list Exactly what you have. Down to the model number. Also drivers and configuration (2 ohm, 4 ohm stereo, mono etc.)

that other guy moved his battery to the trunk so all bets are off.

Jeff
 
I have a soundqubed 1200 class D running at one ohm and a PPI bk520. 4 running all 4 ch at 4 ohms so at my peak I'd draw 1500w but music is dynamic and that rarely happens what I find weird is how its high voltage not low if I was running low on power typically voltage reflects that but mine pooped out at 15v
 
That's because the current draw from your audio system is dynamic, that by the time it reacts, the draw has passed, or the draw is so inconsistent that the system just jacks up the output to compensate. The system is supposed to respond to changes over time. System accessories in the car are constant draw devices, fans, and PCM components (ignition, injectors etc.) are fairly low draw devices that the system can easily handle things like high power stereos are intermittent and the charging system wasn't designed for it. I would recommend that you run another battery for the stereo, that way you increase the capacity, slightly isolate the main system and probably allow for better control over the voltage. I haven't done a large system in a GP or any of the other GM products with this system. However my system I am working on now will consist of a Hi Fonics Zues series 7 and an A/D/S PH15 (unless I change my mind) so when I get that in it should have an even higher draw than your system since I'm using Class A/B amps and are much less efficient than your Class D. I already have planned on running a second battery anyway since I was aware this may be a problem. I typically do not run a isolator I usually use a contactor to cut power from the rear battery when not in use. Also allow you to jump yourself without having to do anything.

Jeff
 


Good luck and keep us posted.

Jeff


Well, I like to be thorough when it comes to explaining things. It helps people understand what, when and why. Still think it's going to need another battery.
 
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