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Drivers Side CV removal from tranny question

S

sparty

New member
I knew my drivers side ball joint was getting bad after 255,000 miles but I of course didn't expect it to pop out of the socket.. :) Saturday it did, made a horrendous noise and scared all the nice people eating outdoors, but even more concerning was that the inner cv joint separated (the tripod came out of the cup going into the tranny) and the boot broke clean off.

So I figure might at well put a new drivers side CV axle in, but wanted to check on getting the drivers side inner cv cup out of the tranny. I have a slide hammer from AutoZone and I got the little U shapped end attachment.. Any pins that have to come out first, or just pop it out with the slide hammer? Is that it for removal, just pop it out?

How about re-inserting back drivers side inner CV into the tranny - any tips or watch outs?

Also I thought I read some tranny fluid will come out - should I be concerned with a lot of fluid coming out?

Car is a 1998 Grand Prix Gt... The tranny is a relatively new rebuilt from Triple Edge performance - tranny has performed awesome - highly recommend them.

-Rob
 


once the car is jacked up so its higher on the side your working, very little to nothing will come out.

to get the part left in the tranny out, push it in first, then pop it with the slide hammer. theres a clip inside that you need to pop past, if your on the clip when you hit it with the slide hammer it will not come out. so push it in off the clip, you'll feel it move in and out, then pop it hard.
 
Thanks! Since the ball joint popped out of the control arm I had to have it towed to home. Then I had the tow driver use the scissors to drop it right on top of my two jack stands in my garage:)

Really appreciate the suggestions though - will definitely follow your suggested technique.. I read the write up in the FAQ but this wasn't there. Also in the write up they acknowledge some may not like prying on the tranny.. a yeah - I don't want to pry on the tranny - so I'm hoping the right way with the slide hammer will pop it out..

THANKS!
 
most of use wedge a pry bar between the axle end and the tranny, and hold on to your hat. KICK THE SNOT OUT THE PRY BAR LOL it works well. have not heard of any one breaking the trans case.


oh when re installing it, you line just push it in till it clicks, then try to pull it back out, if its locked in your set. you can pop the tie rod end too to turn the knuckle further so the end of the new axle can fit to the hub.

that axle nut. if you dont have air tools, put the spare tire on then just 2 lugs lower the car so its got weight on it then take the nut off with a pipe and breaker bar. its a 34 or 36 mm. new nut is larger then the stock one. 36 mm socket works on a 34 nut. ive done it before.
 
ScottyDoggs said:
most of use wedge a pry bar between the axle end and the tranny, and hold on to your hat. KICK THE SNOT OUT THE PRY BAR LOL it works well. have not heard of any one breaking the trans case.


oh when re installing it, you line just push it in till it clicks, then try to pull it back out, if its locked in your set. you can pop the tie rod end too to turn the knuckle further so the end of the new axle can fit to the hub.

that axle nut. if you dont have air tools, put the spare tire on then just 2 lugs lower the car so its got weight on it then take the nut off with a pipe and breaker bar. its a 34 or 36 mm. new nut is larger then the stock one. 36 mm socket works on a 34 nut. ive done it before.
Click to expand...

Thanks more good suggestions! I thought it was a 34mm for the stock nut and guessed wrong, it's a 36mm. :)

I got lifetime alignment service from Firestone seven years ago. So i generally don't mind loosening the tie rod and then re-aligning when done. Problem is Firestone is becoming a real PITA with honoring the lifetime service. So now I tell them I will bring my tools and floor jack with me - any whining for why they won't align I will just fix in the parking lot..
I think part of the problem is they see 255,000 on the odometer and instantly want to deny service. Advice to other - beware of Firestone - sometimes CV axle techniques not involving the tie rod or strut is the better way to go than relying on "lifetime alignment service" from Firestone..
 
Biggest piece of advice is push toward the transmission on that cv cup. The way the compression clip is setup, if there is force pulling on it evenly it won't compress and release. If you push in..then give it a solid yank forward, it'll compress and let the axle come out easy.

FWIW, I can't believe Scotty didn't tell you about the slightly pricey axle tool. Gearwrench 82248. Simple flick of the wrist (his description) and the axle is out.
 


that pry bar is your baby bill lol

not may of us are going to buy a tool that cost more then the axle your changing lol great too tho. pops a axle out in 5 seconds, it take 3 seconds to position the tool right, then flick.
 
Thanks for all the help.. Last night I used the slide hammer and it popped right out - nice and clean. It did take a whole 5 seconds and similar to the pry bar method, getting the attachment and hammer square was key. It took about 1 minute to insert the new axle and have it click it.. When using the slide hammer, push the attachment in behind the inner CV first and then screw hammer into it after and don't use a lock nut on the slide hammer. Again thanks for all the good suggestions.

If others are interested I got the slide hammer rental-free at Autozone. The slide hammer rental part # is OEM 2033 and the end attachment is part # is OEM 27058.
 
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