• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Front Power Log 3800 S/C

Status
Not open for further replies.
well you haven't lived until you've welded on a smelly dumpster with maggots in it...lol
or for that matter worked under a garbage truck and watch maggots drip from it. when i wasn't working on dumpsters i was doing service and tire work . the horrors i've seen and the smells i've smelled ...:th_sick1:
 


When you said that I thought about the dumpster we got when we moved locations. It must have been from a restaurant or something because it was bad. We had to raise a stink to get them to change it out.....

they were like well it's a dumpster what do you expect? I told them that I expected to not smell it from my office near the front inside the building when it's located in the other end of the building. Then explained we were an office and after a little arguing and telling them they were going to pick it up and replace it or because we switched companies. We had a new one the next day.

you're a better man than me, I couldn't do it. I get sick in a chicken slaughterhouse. I've been to companies where they make gelatin and that's a bad smell, I've been to a paper mill and that's a pretty bad smell, but you sir, my hat is off to you.
 
EHB said:
well you haven't lived until you've welded on a smelly dumpster with maggots in it...lol
or for that matter worked under a garbage truck and watch maggots drip from it. when i wasn't working on dumpsters i was doing service and tire work . the horrors i've seen and the smells i've smelled ...:th_sick1:
Click to expand...


disco rice man. it takes a while to build up the gag factor. its a amazing what you can get used to tho. i did a commercial packer route for a while, restaurants and dinners are the worst in summer.

and ive been close to a box or 30 getting welded, the stink from the burning slop is bad lol

used to haul food waste too. 40 yard roll off box filled with rotting crap. fruits veggies, you name it. truck would weigh out at over 80,000 every damn time. my all time high was 103.000 in a tri axle with a gvw of 80,000
 
one week out of the year we'd get contracted to haul "sludge"... what is sludge you ask ? human waste from the treatment plant. that's right..they spread human waste on crops grown for animal consumption...funny if you think about it. they spread animal **** to grow our food , and spread human **** to grow animal food.
we had like 7 roll off trucks and they all parked in the garage ALONG WITH 5 FRONT END LOADERS AND 2 REAR END LOADERS ... WITH the boxes that they hauled sh*t in all day. the truCks were covered with crap and we still had to service them, change tires, whatever...that was THE WORST EVER.
 


It was wire brush to take all the glue off of it that was holding the heat shrink on it

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
Wire brush on a wheel with a motor attached? What kind of brush did you use, as that is kind of important. Because this is what happens to stainless when you use a contaminated tool for finishing or grinding of stainless steel.



Jeff
 
The power log was taken off the car and wire brush wheel was used to clean it with it has a coating on it.

Please don't worry about it. We are not talking about open heart surgery here

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
It isn't, but that means I would have to regrind the material and polish it so it doesn't look like the 3 day old install of a system that was washed one time and placed into an air conditioned room I posted.

I'll contact you

Jeff
 




I studied your picture and not being the professed accomplished welder you are, I did research. Contrary to popular opinion, surface rusting doesnot occur when stainless steel is “sensitized” since the bulk of the metal has adequatechromium to prevent surface rusting; sensitized stainless steel only corrodes along thegrain boundaries. Rusting phenomenon discussed in this paper is a surface phenomenononly. Which means your SS in the pic is of low quantity of chromium. Apparently my Plog is not of poor quality since it has been removed and sitting in my humidity filled garage for a couple of months. My reference is: http://www.sperkoengineering.com/html/Rust.pdf
 
Bless your heart you don't understand. That picture is of a junction that one of the helpers ground down the welds using a 5" flapper disk. The same disk he just used to grind down the corners and weld on a mild steel frame. This causes cross contamination of the material and embeds mild steel into the stainless, that sir is what rusts. Now this picture is from a cheap 2 mp camera on an old LG Chocolate that was my old work phone. What you cannot see is the small dots where the mild steel is embedded into the I took this picture. He also used a contaminated sanding belt on our Dynisher (sp) that is basically a 7" disk grinder with the head rotated 90* with an inflatable tube that holds a small 4" wide and 6" round sanding belt that is used to grain and polish the steel it's a bad picture, but I took it years ago so that I could reinforce keeping anything used for mild steel away from what is used for stainless. Now since this picture was taken so long ago I have yet to see the another system that has had an issue. If you notice most of the rust is located at the joint and weld area. And yes I am fully aware of cheap Chinese and Taiwanese "shinny mild steel" our company requires ASTM sheets on all material that come in.

Also reread page 3 and figure 1, that shows rust as a piece of mild steel has been rubbed into it probably from someone leaning something against it, but you are talking about just a piece of steel, not a contaminated piece of abrasive material that is rubbed all over the metal.

My whole point is that just the other day one of these Plogs was brand spanking new still in the box sold for $125 shipped. Yours is a year old, has been wrapped with header wrap AGAINST the manufacturers advice warning against it, then on top of that you take a mild steel wire wheel and try to clean it up contaminating a surface that is going to be exposed to high heat and water over time and if not taken care of is going to look like trash, that I can guar-on-tee. Then you want full price for it like its brand new? I made a fair offer, you refused. That was it, but if you want to test my knowledge on this subject, go ahead but it's not going to help your sale.

Regards,

Jeff
 
J57ltr said:
Bless your heart you don't understand. That picture is of a junction that one of the helpers ground down the welds using a 5" flapper disk. The same disk he just used to grind down the corners and weld on a mild steel frame. This causes cross contamination of the material and embeds mild steel into the stainless, that sir is what rusts. Now this picture is from a cheap 2 mp camera on an old LG Chocolate that was my old work phone. What you cannot see is the small dots where the mild steel is embedded into the I took this picture. He also used a contaminated sanding belt on our Dynisher (sp) that is basically a 7" disk grinder with the head rotated 90* with an inflatable tube that holds a small 4" wide and 6" round sanding belt that is used to grain and polish the steel it's a bad picture, but I took it years ago so that I could reinforce keeping anything used for mild steel away from what is used for stainless. Now since this picture was taken so long ago I have yet to see the another system that has had an issue. If you notice most of the rust is located at the joint and weld area. And yes I am fully aware of cheap Chinese and Taiwanese "shinny mild steel" our company requires ASTM sheets on all material that come in.

Also reread page 3 and figure 1, that shows rust as a piece of mild steel has been rubbed into it probably from someone leaning something against it, but you are talking about just a piece of steel, not a contaminated piece of abrasive material that is rubbed all over the metal.

My whole point is that just the other day one of these Plogs was brand spanking new still in the box sold for $125 shipped. Yours is a year old, has been wrapped with header wrap AGAINST the manufacturers advice warning against it, then on top of that you take a mild steel wire wheel and try to clean it up contaminating a surface that is going to be exposed to high heat and water over time and if not taken care of is going to look like trash, that I can guar-on-tee. Then you want full price for it like its brand new? I made a fair offer, you refused. That was it, but if you want to test my knowledge on this subject, go ahead but it's not going to help your sale.

Regards,

Jeff
Click to expand...
You still have not refuted the document that I put on here. Take your high horse and ride on out of this post. What a jerk.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top