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The *Unofficial* GPF RC Thread

i hate to tell you but they all break. its part of the game. may parts are made to fail if you ask me, these parts that fail also keep other parts from breaking. if you plan on playing with it a lot, you'll be working on it all the time.

that t maxx tho. dont think my brother has replaced a thing on it yet but glow plugs. he dont use it a whole lot but did more when he first got it. you can pretty much hit a 6 inch tall curb wot and it just goes up the curb like nothing happened.

theres vids of guys jumping houses and they hit the ground and keep gong, violently too.
 




Slick2500 said:
Does anyone have any knowledge of this truck? http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-37054-1-Rustler-Stadium-Ready-To-Race/dp/B00OK3AC9M
Seems like a good one. Lots of parts available. Can't find any videos of the most recent version though.
Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away
Click to expand...

This was the truck I have, with the stock setup as shown they aren't very fast, but the slower you go the less parts you break. I have replaced every part on my truck, there are no original parts left on it. I said earlier how I smashed into a storm drain and had to replace the upper and lower frame, bulkhead, A-arm, steering knuckle and several other parts. I spent $35 fixing it so it's cheap to fix and everyone stocks Traxxas parts. I have even upgraded the transmission to all steel gears, bearings are common for them and don't bother with Aluminum A-arms and stuff because instead of breaking or bending then snapping back into place they bend and through off the alignment. Use RPM aftermarket parts they have a warranty, and are more forgiving of damage. This is the same truck I was able to get to 89 mph. I'll post a pick of it when I get home.

Jeff
 
WOT to back flip like mad tho lol

i was watching some motocross bike stunt guys, and they were describing all that happen when you stop just the front wheel from spinning while in the air and such....

if poor evil Knievel knew any of this he may have broke less bones, as he just went for it lol
 
J57ltr said:
This was the truck I have, with the stock setup as shown they aren't very fast, but the slower you go the less parts you break. I have replaced every part on my truck, there are no original parts left on it. I said earlier how I smashed into a storm drain and had to replace the upper and lower frame, bulkhead, A-arm, steering knuckle and several other parts. I spent $35 fixing it so it's cheap to fix and everyone stocks Traxxas parts. I have even upgraded the transmission to all steel gears, bearings are common for them and don't bother with Aluminum A-arms and stuff because instead of breaking or bending then snapping back into place they bend and through off the alignment. Use RPM aftermarket parts they have a warranty, and are more forgiving of damage. This is the same truck I was able to get to 89 mph. I'll post a pick of it when I get home.

Jeff
Click to expand...
The only downside I see to that truck is its only 2wd.

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away
 


That's true, but once you get used to not stabbing the throttle you can control it on the dirt just fine. I have 3 friends that bought rustlers after I did and they have upgraded them too we go to skate parks and school fields. We all have Lipo and 5k batteries and can run for more than 20 minutes. I'll take a few pics, I have adapters for mounting 1/8th scale foams on them the're a lot of different things to them. They are the camaro and mustang of the RC world.

They do make a 4WD version of the rustler.
 
If you look close you will see the pass side has a modified stock axle the dr side is an HPI setup, but I even twisted one in half.



With the body, even 4wd a wheelie bar is mandatory.



High speed runs can cause slight grinding of the body.




Some of the turnbuckle links are Jato parts and others come from the VXL. The cool thing is you can get a base model and work it up from there.
Jeff
 
heres a little tip for all you guys so you dont loose the body clips.

i used 30 ln test fishing line tied a fishing knot to the clip, then a inch or so of line to a rivet with another fishing knot tied to it, then drill and rivet the line to the body, you now have hood pins with cable mounts.

lost very few clips after i did that mod. the fishing line will wear if it rolls and drags the street, but your always touching the clips and will see if the line is getting beat up and you can just replace it if need be. just drill the rivet out and redo the line and rivet.
 
why my controller cost me around 75 bucks or more. cheap is cheap. i used the same controller for a few different cars too, you just swap the chip in the side or back of it to another channel thats already in that other car. it never broke either. and it took a few good falls and was kicked a few times by accident.
 


No, controller is fine, when you hit the trigger the Led on the esc dims, when you let go it brightens, when the truck does run the Led stays the same.

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away
 
Told you, cheap r/c needs all new electronics. I hope your not replacing with cheap esc.........

gt.........


scotty the 2.4ghz systems dont use chips, only the cheaper am/fm bands use the crystals.
 
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