Steering Rack
- Thread starter kissmyss
- Start date
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
go buy 2 or 3 cans of engine de greaser, put the car on ramps and spray it down from under the car, hit the rack, tranny bottom of the engine, the sides of the block, the whole nine yards, then do the top.
once its clean, see whats really leaking before you invest in a rack, and the time to do one. your rear valve cover can leak on the tranny then off the tranny pan then hit the rack while driving making it all wet looking back there.
just trying to look out for ya. and who wants to work on a car thats all greasy any ways?
kissmyss
New member
I'll just go with a OEM or A/C Delco replacement, looking at this part #88955466 now. Although I hear this place is good; http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2009-i...2005|Model:Impala&hash=item233454cf0c&vxp=mtr
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
ive heard they are not so good. at least for hubs they suck. i thought about them when my rack went and i just passed on em.
REDCRAPGP
New member
If your paying that.. You might as well order one from advance.. Easy warranty/exchange
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bandook
Donating Users
I'd go back to your plastic surgeon and get them to put some new bags in. Don't be so ambitious and stay under a D cup. Too big too soon and you end up with a leaky rack...
Sorry, been driving for 9 hrs...mind is slipping and still have 7 to go...
HighOctaneRacing
New member
Nice rack
hahah
kissmyss
New member
The deed is done, steering feels tighter and a noise that plagued me for years is gone. Here's the procedure I used after reading various posts and watching You tube videos.
I did the usual put the car on jack stands.I placed the stands at the front of the sub-frame, most people said don't support the vehicle by the sub-frame since it needs to be lowered. I saw a picture where someone lowered the rear sub-frame with the front supported and decided to give it a try. My sway bar wasn't all that bad, but decided to replace it now rather than later. First I moved the drivers seat forward, put the seat belt through it and then moved the seat back to keep the steering wheel straight. I disconnected the sway and with a little finesse I removed it through the drivers side. Once the bar was removed there seemed to be enough room to remove the rack without dropping the sub-frame. The sub-frame bolts were unobstructed, so why drop the frame. I removed the steering shaft bolt, power steering lines, outer tie-rods, rack bolts and removed the rack through the drivers side. I counted the number of grooves on the inner tie-rods, to be used as a reference when placing the outer tie-rods on the new steering rack. I placed both racks next to each other for comparison and noticed the steering shaft connection wasn't oriented the same. So I turned the the shaft on the new rack to match the old one. This helps keep the steering wheel centered. Once mounted further adjustment may be necessary when attaching the steering shaft. The only problem I had during the removal was the power steering lines. They had to be removed from the top through the engine compartment. The wrench I had only allowed limited movement, stubby's would have been better. I plan on purchasing some in the future.
AC Delco rack;
Dorman Sway bay;
Seat belt around steering wheel;
Leaking rack;
Sway bar removed;
Sway bar and rack removed.Notice sub-frame is still attached;
New and old rack. The plastic piece the boot connects to was no longer attached to the rack before I removed it. This appear to be the original rack as indicated by the sticker.;
Shaft orientation before;
After;
Various pictures;
I did the usual put the car on jack stands.I placed the stands at the front of the sub-frame, most people said don't support the vehicle by the sub-frame since it needs to be lowered. I saw a picture where someone lowered the rear sub-frame with the front supported and decided to give it a try. My sway bar wasn't all that bad, but decided to replace it now rather than later. First I moved the drivers seat forward, put the seat belt through it and then moved the seat back to keep the steering wheel straight. I disconnected the sway and with a little finesse I removed it through the drivers side. Once the bar was removed there seemed to be enough room to remove the rack without dropping the sub-frame. The sub-frame bolts were unobstructed, so why drop the frame. I removed the steering shaft bolt, power steering lines, outer tie-rods, rack bolts and removed the rack through the drivers side. I counted the number of grooves on the inner tie-rods, to be used as a reference when placing the outer tie-rods on the new steering rack. I placed both racks next to each other for comparison and noticed the steering shaft connection wasn't oriented the same. So I turned the the shaft on the new rack to match the old one. This helps keep the steering wheel centered. Once mounted further adjustment may be necessary when attaching the steering shaft. The only problem I had during the removal was the power steering lines. They had to be removed from the top through the engine compartment. The wrench I had only allowed limited movement, stubby's would have been better. I plan on purchasing some in the future.
AC Delco rack;
Dorman Sway bay;
Seat belt around steering wheel;
Leaking rack;
Sway bar removed;
Sway bar and rack removed.Notice sub-frame is still attached;
New and old rack. The plastic piece the boot connects to was no longer attached to the rack before I removed it. This appear to be the original rack as indicated by the sticker.;
Shaft orientation before;
After;
Various pictures;
kissmyss
New member
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. The rack installed from the drivers side. The Dorman sway bar installs from the passengers side, remove the passenger side rotor for more clearance something I didn't do. I installed and torqued everything down before I connected the steering shaft.
Besides leaking, this is what I was experiencing;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHXYtBXVQOk
Another video;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqJD0LOmDiA
Besides leaking, this is what I was experiencing;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHXYtBXVQOk
Another video;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqJD0LOmDiA
kissmyss
New member
Everything's fine so far and I'm happy with the new car feel. Here are some additional pics;
Distance between tie rod and sway bar
Distance between down-pipe and sway bar. only the tip of my pinky finger fits between the two, don't know if I'll have enough clearance if I switch to a 3 inch down pipe.
Distance between tie rod and sway bar
Distance between down-pipe and sway bar. only the tip of my pinky finger fits between the two, don't know if I'll have enough clearance if I switch to a 3 inch down pipe.
kissmyss
New member
Mine didn't, I placed it next to the oem bar and made sure the ends were orientated the same way. When I installed it, I made sure there was clearance between the bar and the tie rod. Some people claimed it can only be installed one way, because the wrong way it will contact the tie rods when the full weight of the car is on the tires. The middle hump in the bar is facing up as shown in this video;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdOdimz_QUE#t=337
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdOdimz_QUE#t=337
Last edited:
GEMINIokc
New member
Hi, what R&P did you end up going with?, how much? shipping charge or free? Just curious i'm about to have to change mine
kissmyss
New member
Hi, what R&P did you end up going with?, how much? shipping charge or free? Just curious i'm about to have to change mine
I purchased an A/C Delco from Amazon.com for a little over $200. ACDelco 88955466 GM Original Equipment Steering Gear Complete Kit, Remanufactured
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC $205.19 Condition: New. If it didn't have a lifetime warranty, I would've went with A1 Cardone based on their video showing the improvements they made.