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1998 GTP A/C overhaul (include orifice tube replacement)

copgtp

copgtp

Your ClubGP Liason
Engine and tranny are out of the car, and while everything is out I decided to overhaul my A/C system. Pulled the orifice tube today, you can see the attached picture, it looked pretty gunked up. I do have a 1998, but the orifice tube was NOT located up near the condenser. The orifice tube was under the brake booster as it is in the 99+, but it is still the 97-98 type orifice tube, and it was located inside what seems to be some type of "collector" pipe. Attached pictures I hope illustrate what I'm saying.

Anyways, I want to overhaul the system, does anyone have a list of part #'s and pieces I should replace while everything is out? O-rings? etc, etc...

Here is a partial list:

Orifice tube ac delco # 155754
Compressor ac delco # 1521662A
A/C condenser ac delco # 156961
a/c drier ac delco # 1510076
a/c refrigerant line ac delco # 1532582

If anyone has any other items I should replace while overhauling the system, I appreciate the info / advice.



Here are the pics:

p1010016s.jpg


p1010017ut.jpg


p1010019yf.jpg
 


so what is the procedure to do this without removing the engine and transmission. i heard have to remove the brake bosster. wondering if it is absolutly necessary.
 
Removing the brake booster isn't necessary for the orfice tube. Neither is removing the engine or transmission for the other items. Make sure you empty the system before you start wrenching connectors apart. That is if your system has anything left in it. The shaft seal for the compressor was bad on mine, so I had to change it. About $40, but it's not for the novice as you have to dismantle the compressor. But if you have the tools and are willing to learn, what better time. I'm told usually the compressor is worn out at that point so should be replaced, but worked fine for mine.
 
Hey there, Im having a problem with my a/c. It doesnt want to go from the dash to vent to floor. It just blows out of all 3. What trap door is the problem, where is it located. Thanks
 
so where is that picture taken from showing the orifice tube? looks like there isnt much room. also some people say that it is necessary to remove the brake booster and egr heat sheild. others say no need. so any idea how long this should take to replace the tube?
 


You don't need to remove the brake booster. FSM's tell us to remove the cruise module and depending on the year, move the ABS unit out of the way.

On this 98, all i did was pull the master cylinder off the booster and pop the ABS off the strut and it was easier to get to
IMG_7321.jpg


IMG_7322.jpg


IMG_7323.jpg
 
So the 97 is by the condensor?

Also id throw in a complete gasket kit while everything is out

And if you happen to do a write that would be better for a gp ac overhaul
 


**** a orifice tube

I just did this today. OMG it was a *****. If that godamn ABS module wasn't in the way I could probably do it in 15 mins..

So, doing the compressor and Accumulator/Receiver Drier tomorrow.
Does anybody know how much oil I should add to each?

Thanks
Steven





yes, I know this is a old post.
 
Wondering the same myself. My compressor had a leak at the seal 3yrs ago? I've worked nights for the past 3 summers until I got my recent job in November with the State. Now I need AC! I always thought the Oriface tube was to the left of the booster in the firewall. Glad I viewed this thread! I'm an AC Dum Dum.

I have the oriface tube, compressor, and dryer. Should I do anything special? I read things about flushing a system but I dont' have tools for that. I was just going to replace the parts and have a shop charge it back up.
 
rynoman03 said:
Wondering the same myself. My compressor had a leak at the seal 3yrs ago? I've worked nights for the past 3 summers until I got my recent job in November with the State. Now I need AC! I always thought the Oriface tube was to the left of the booster in the firewall. Glad I viewed this thread! I'm an AC Dum Dum.

I have the oriface tube, compressor, and dryer. Should I do anything special? I read things about flushing a system but I dont' have tools for that. I was just going to replace the parts and have a shop charge it back up.
Click to expand...

I was told you should evacuate the system to get all the moisture out since there was a leak and you cracked open the lines.

Then you can re-charge it.
 


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