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How am I looking for a pulley drop? (HPT scan log included)



did you drive for more than five minutes to take this scan? a scan log is useless unless you drive around for a while.
 
It was probably about 15 minutes and I tried to work in some WOT. I mean, we're scanning for KR not trying to do a MAF tune.

Is there a technique to this that's explained somewhere? I could have done more cruising around but I don't knock at cruise.
 
Best way it to get a few driving conditions in it. Roll into it a few times all the way to wot. Then I like to catch a few 4-2 and 3-2 WOT shifts and run it to about 100. Basically top of second til a few moments after shift to 3rd. I don't run my scans too far into 3rd WOT cause I run 2nd to about 100.

But to your original question, your scans look ok. Drop it down and scan all the time. If you see too much knock, pulley back up.
 
I only saw one scan and it didn't go above 20% throttle, so I'm not sure if I'm looking at the scan you intended to post.
 
SgtMarshal said:
I only saw one scan and it didn't go above 20% throttle, so I'm not sure if I'm looking at the scan you intended to post.
Click to expand...

Must have been looking at something else.

1999Scan_zpskqi6dkmi.jpg
 


stock pulley headers and 5.8 kr? check to see if the o2 sensor is hitting, or the down pipe hitting the sway bar.
 
Got around to an exhaust shop today to repair something else and took a look at the o2 while I was down there; it's definitely hitting. The friend I had install my headers didn't even dent in the floor pan so the sensor is rammed into it to the point of being bent at the end. So the only way to undo it is to cut is out, re-weld the bung elsewhere and pop in a new sensor.

*sigh*

Pardon my ignorance though, but would somebody mind explaining to me how the o2 making contact with the floor pan contributes to engine knock? Not arguing the point, I just can't figure out. And there aren't any codes related to the sensor.

Thanks peeps.
 
Centauri said:
Got around to an exhaust shop today to repair something else and took a look at the o2 while I was down there; it's definitely hitting. The friend I had install my headers didn't even dent in the floor pan so the sensor is rammed into it to the point of being bent at the end. So the only way to undo it is to cut is out, re-weld the bung elsewhere and pop in a new sensor.

*sigh*

Pardon my ignorance though, but would somebody mind explaining to me how the o2 making contact with the floor pan contributes to engine knock? Not arguing the point, I just can't figure out. And there aren't any codes related to the sensor.

Thanks peeps.
Click to expand...

The vibrations of the O2 hitting the floor are picked up by the knock sensor which means the engine pulls timing to get it to stop.
 


They want $75 to cut it out and weld a new bung or $75 to cut it out and hammer in the firewall. I reckon the weld is the better option.
 
sounds like the asshole shop im stuck with. they wanted 75 to weld a bung in the crossover. i took the pipe off and gave then just the pipe with a X marked on it, drill and weld bung here, 30 bucks lol
 
If your wideband thing on that screen shot is correct, you are way lean. 12.6 afr is kinda dangerous.


And if you arent going to log injector bank 2 and the rear o2 sensor, remove those from the 3rd table and add commanded AFR to that. You will want to know what the PCM is commanding for fuel.
 
Doubtful.

I can't see your tune nor can I see the commanded AFR on that screen shot. So if you are commanding mid 12's and the wideband shows mid 12's, thats part of the problem. Or if you see 12.6 on the wideband and you are commanding 11.5, thats another problem. Adjustment would need to be made there to give it more fuel.
 


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