• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

New to Pontiac & Forum... Need Help/Advice

W

WhiskerBiscuit97

New member
Hello GrandPrixForums. I recently sold my first personally owned GM and hopped into another the next day.
1523629_10205515119149419_5787434060302365955_o.jpg
I bought a 97 GTP with high miles -160,000- for a price I couldn't pass up. So without knowing the past of the car, I go to an auto parts store and buy pretty much all the things I know need replacement due to the odometer.

My question is, what are the immediate things I should look at or pay attention to. I can do all the research and locate the pages myself... I am just looking for specfic words to a specific part/area. I guess a couple of examples would be " Owners of 02-06 Dodge Ram with a Cummins should be wary of the Trans imploding if you increase the power" or "GM Trucks tend to burn out the Driver's Daytime Lights" or "The Cam Sensors on a 3.6L Caddy start sending bad readings to PCM ruining performance/mpg but you can remove & clean magnetic half. Avoiding a trip to Autozone" lastly "On 4.0L Jaguars, you should replace the Plastic Timing Chain Guides every 40k & saves thousands in the future." I hope my question and examples make some sort of sense, its been a long day.

I've owned many vehicles over the years from Porsche 996
882524_10200208283001832_90079523_o.jpg
to square bodied F250 on 40's
178179_4466046741337_2132731945_o.jpg
Whether it'd be for resale, repair, modification, or maybe looking like a badass if it breaks down when I am with a lady friend (It's happened more than twice) , I like to take as much info about that make and model.

To Whoever took the time to read and has suggestions or answer(s) to my question. Thank you : )

- Pictures for credibility, bottom two were in California, before I moved to OH (what a change of "scenery" )
 
Last edited:


On a GTP,
Use Premium fuel only
Do the plugs and wires, clean the throttle body.
The trans on these can get sketchy, however if you don't abuse it daily.. it should last
 
The Lower Intake Manifold gasket is frequently a problem, because people don't change out the antifreeze periodically like they are supposed to, and it turns acidic and eats the plastic gaskets. Replace with aluminum gaskets, and flush out the cooling system. You might also take this opportunity to convert to Ethylene Glycol antifreeze instead of Dexcool, but be sure your flush is thorough because the two don't play well together (unless you go to "universal").

When I obtain an older car, I like to power wash everything so leaks show up. Valvecover gaskets can sometimes be an issue.

Rust around the rocker panels can be kinda nasty. So can rust around the strut towers (esp. rear).

It's quite possible the plugs and wires are still factory original. Especially if you see the cylinder #'s on the spark plug wires (replacements don't have the cylinder #'s printed on the wires). If you go after the lower IM gasket, it would be a good time to do this (and clean the throttle body like Bill suggested).

When I pick up a GP, I like to throw in Monroe Quick struts and Raybestos Brakes on all four corners. Just a personal preference there.

Transmission fluid might have never been changed. Many people like to add a shift kit.

Supercharger coupling can be an issue. Some shops will tell you to replace the whole supercharger for $1300 but you really just need the plastic coupling. And BTW you might want to change out the supercharger oil, good chance it's never been touched. The old stuff has to be sucked out.
 
bobc455 said:
The Lower Intake Manifold gasket is frequently a problem, because people don't change out the antifreeze periodically like they are supposed to, and it turns acidic and eats the plastic gaskets. Replace with aluminum gaskets, and flush out the cooling system. You might also take this opportunity to convert to Ethylene Glycol antifreeze instead of Dexcool, but be sure your flush is thorough because the two don't play well together (unless you go to "universal").
Click to expand...

Need to disagree with you Bob. If you replace with plastic frame gaskets, it does not matter what type of coolant you use the gaskets will begin to warp and implode. I tested this before metal gaskets were available. In as little as 20K, the gaskets were having issues.
 


bobcat455 & to whoever's reads... I did some of the things you suggested. I did spark plugs, wires, pcv valve, fuel filter, battery. I also clean the MAF with that spray. Also the throttle body & a few inches into the plenum. When I looked/bought the car, the battery was not there (I guess I over looked that detail in the small print) I hooked up jumper cables as a last resort and heard/saw it for about 10 seconds. It ran (rough) but started right up and had an instant CEL - MAF low circuit. After doing that work, the car will not run. If I crank and feather the throttle, it sputters and feels like the last 3 seconds before running a gas tank dry. No CEL (of course, it only ran for 1.7 seconds...haha)

NOTE: I am mechanically inclined. I was apart of a pro Porsche series pit crew. I've made 70% of all my money since my legal working age from some form of the automobile. So someone putting a fuel filter on backwards (why are they arrowed for direction, if they only go one 1 way?) Or not hooking up the throttle cable would be funny.. I don't think I'll be the one this time. I have very little knowledge about engine issue diagnostics, basically I don't **** about it.. Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated and the next beer is on me.
 
At first, that sounds like the time when we had a tank full of bad fuel. We got the engine to fire up when we shot ether into the intake, but couldn't get it to keep running. Eventually we had to dump the fuel and get fresh, then it was fine ever since. (Gasoline companies say that fuel is good for 60 days out of the pump, and even with aftermarket additives they don't like it being used after 90 days... I've exceeded that plenty of times, but if the gas is really old or maybe contaminated with water then you might want to try other fuel)
 
Last edited:
bobc455 said:
At first, that sounds like the time when we had a tank full of bad fuel. We got the engine to fire up when we shot ether into the intake, but couldn't get it to keep running. Eventually we had to dump the fuel and get fresh, then it was fine ever since. (Gasoline companies say that fuel is good for 60 days out of the pump, and even with aftermarket additives they don't like it being used after 90 days... I've exceeded that plenty of times, but if the gas is really old or maybe contaminated with water then you might want to try other fuel)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I ended up tearing the whole top half the engine up replacing the LIM gaskets along with the gaskets of the water pump, timing chain cover, thermostat, supercharger,map, injectors, oil pan and some others. Also dropped the gas tank, put in a 180° thermostat, DIY intake, belts and much more. I am about 90% done and anxious for the start up. I'll let you know how it goes : )
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top