• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Noob With 2001 GTP - 1st Repair Items Are Mounts and Oil Pan Gasket

sparkydog

sparkydog

New member
Hi lads. I bought a 2001 GTP last weekend with 124k 3 owners. Fairly well documented service history. I bought it knowing I would need to do engine and tranny mount and oil pan gasket.

Soooo my first question is can I do the engine mount and oil pan gasket at the same time with the engine lifted from above using an engine hoist and the sub frame lowered a tad on the front side? (I have the front of the car on jackstands that are under the rear side of the subframe mounts.)

Thanks for any replys!
 


You should be able to do it that way, most people just support the engine from the top and drop the passenger side of the subframe. And with the engine mount out of the way it might be easier to do the oil pan.
 
The mounts went well. I'm a slacker so I did the trans mount 1st because I knew it was easier and wanted to develop some mojo. Motor side actually wasn't as bad as the internet led me to expect. But then I moved on to the oil pan and got my awrse kicked. I have all the pan bolts out now but seriously doubt that I will be able to get all of them back in (but no need to worry about that until later). Now comes the part where I have to get the pan OUT. I've got the PS side of the motor pulled high but the subframe is OG and thus far looks like the pan hits the edge of the motor mount bracket and won't slide out. So tomorrow I will try loosening the PS of the subframe and pray I can get the pan out.

Here's a pic of my dead PS motor mount just so I can practice attaching pics on this forum!
 

Attachments

  • 007.JPG
    007.JPG
    89.5 KB · Views: 19
that U shaped bracket the motor mount bolts to, it needs to come off. maybe the a/c compressor too. then the oil pan bolts can be taken out and the pan drops off.

theres a few oil pan how to vids on you tube, check em out for more mojo lol
 


iirc ive read that a ratcheting wrench works well to get the side bolts off. getting it back on is said to be the fun part.
 
Oil pan gasket and motor/tranny mounts replaced! Now on to what is probably a bad wheel bearing. I have the ABS/TCS light both on. When I accelerate hard or stop hard I get shimmy. At constant speed or light accel/stopping I don't.

So just to rule out tire balance and warped rotors, I took them both off the front of the car tonight and will take the wheels and rotors in to my tire shop and have them checked out. But in the mean time I have a sort of dumb question: why is the disc rotor hole pattern slightly bigger than the lug bolts and also the disc hole diameter is larger than the lugs. In other words there is a lot (to me) of slop between the rotor and the lugs. You can rotate the rotor back and forth and the play is like 5* of rotation or so. IF this is the normal thing for these cars then that would mean the lug nuts have to be torqued real tight to clamp the rotor enough for it not to slip.

Can somebody comment about this? Thanks!
 
rotors are normal. the lug nuts hole the rotor tight on all car, regardless how large the holes are.

lugs tight, jack each wheel up, then grab the top of the tire with both hands, then firmly push and pull the tire, if theres play the hub is bad.

you can also watch the rotor where it goes into the caliper, then try to move the wheel if its got play you'll see the rotor move.
 
Over the past few weeks as I have been working on the car I might have caused my own radiator leak. See if this makes any sense.. I do not recall having any coolant leak when I first brought the car home - but then again it had a massive oil pan gasket leak so maybe it was just being masked by the oil. However now that I have eliminated the oil leaks and cleaned everything up - I've got the DS end cap of the radiator weeping all up and down it. I am wondering if I might have flexed the radiator when I was using my floor jack because I did a lot of lifts of the one side of the car or the other by jacking up under the front mounts for the subframe. I also did several lifts from the center of the front of the subframe which seemed to cause it to droop to both sides. Does anyone know if the way the radiator is held into the frame if flexing from side to side would twist the radiator enough to fail it?
 
look for a crack in the plastic side tank, they crack for fun all the time. nothing you did made it happen if its cracked. mine cracked for no good reason a while back.
 


Where do they go when I drop them down that hole?

While working on the motor I've dropped a couple of things down the hole where the hood latch is. They made a couple of ricochets and definitely landed on something plastic based on the noise they made. But I can't locate where their new hideout is. :th_shakinghead1:
 
when i took my front bumper cover off i found some tools, with your hand hit the bottom of the bumper cover, listen for something to bounce when you hit it. work your way around the whole bumper.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top