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Want to modify your dash bezel to fit a double din? Look here!

DanPrixGTP

Moderator
As we know, a Grand Prix doesn't properly allow for a double din, it only accepts a single din, but some of us still want the "cool" factor of having a double din and all the nifty features it comes with. So you go out and buy one, like I did. I purchased a Kenwood ddx418 6.1" radio. When to install it, and it looks like this:



EW right?! With my personality, this wasn't going to fly and something needed to be done so it looks factory. At this point, you have multiple options.

1: Keep it the way it is and have it look ugly.
2: Some people just put some plastic that is the same color of the dash on each side of the radio to fill in the gaps. Still looks ugly, but better none the less.
3: You can purchase a bezel professionally modified by a company already. But it's a generic size, so who knows if it will fit exactly to your size double din, and the price is ridiculous, but here you go anyways: http://shop.doubledmods.com/Pontiac-Grand-Prix-97-03-Double-Din-Bezel-GRNDprixDDbezel.htm
4: You can modify it yourself, so it has the perfect fit to your size double din and at least you can say you did it yourself.

Which ever option floats your boat, go for it. But for me, I went with #4 obviously, and creating this write-up to show you what I did.

I have only tried body work ONCE in my life and this tedious work really isn't for me, but I wanted to try it anyways. This is the first and probably only time I will ever do this. Mistakes were made, so bare with me. AND if I can do it on the first try with about zero body work experience, anyone can do it. Just give yourself a few days and do not rush. This took me about 4 days.

*As a side note, mine DID NOT come out perfect and how your finished product ends up, is based off your skill. I am more creating this write-up as a guideline to see whats done. There are many ways to modify your dash, but this is the way I did it. Don't like it, don't listen to what I have to say and how I did and carry on to the thread somewhere on this forum. Without further ado, shall we begin?

Here are the supplies I used:
- Dowel Sticks (I got multiple sizes from Lowes just encase).
- Bondo Body Filler (I went through two tubs of it because I used A LOT of bondo, but the majority got sanded off. In the picture is shows glazing/spot puddy - don't even bother buying that, so ignore that).
- Bondo Hardening Cream
- Dremel with sanding and cutting wheel
- Drill
- Heat gun (Not Required)
- Super Glue
- Extra dash from the junk yard (Not Required)
- ABS Cement. (I never used it, so don't bother)
- Sand paper.
- Primer
- Paint (Charcoal Dark Gray Plast-Dip. It's what I used, but you can use whatever you want. https://www.dipyourcar.com/PlastiDip-Spray-All.html).
- 90 degree mounting tabs for shelves to mount your Double Din (As mine didn't line up with the stock holes for mounting a radio).



Step 1, Mounting the Radio. You can skip this step if you already mounted your radio where you want it.
I used 2" 90 degree shelf mounting hardware from Lowes. You can see the Sharpie line on the hardware where I need to cut the excess off and also the "dot" on the left side showing where I need to drill a new hole.



When that is finished, drill small holes into the plastic of where the stock radio screw holes are. Creating a new mounting spot for the screws. When that's done, your finished mounting your Double Din. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EXACTLY WHERE YOU WANT BEFORE YOU BEGIN WORKING ON THE DASH!



Step 2: Now at this point I created a template of the exact size of my radio. I ended up rarely using it, but it's just nice to have as a reference.





Step 3: Moving the bar between the radio and the HVAC. I made some sharpie lines on the dash where the radio ends.



Time to cut the middle bar out:



All Done:



I also need to cut up by the vents since it was covering up the top of my double din, here is the line I made with the Dremel:



And cut off (I also sanded the sides of the dash where I cut the "Middle Bar" off quite a bit so it was nice and smooth and sanded the top where I cut so that was smooth and even as well):



I reinstalled the dash, and made some sharpie lines where the "Middle Bar" needs to be molded in:



Step 4: Molding in the "Middle Bar." I used a 1/4 dowel stick and mounted it behind the "middle bar" (Your dash opening on the sides will now be wider than normal where the "middle bar" can't reach anymore from all the sanding. That's why this dowel stick is needed).



I super glued it in place to hold it before I applied Bondo to it.



I put a lot of bondo on the back to reinforce it first, then applied a lot to the edges on the front. After drying for awhile your ready to sand. (A heat gun really helps on the bondo drying faster so you aren't waiting around as long).



Double checking it's placed where I want it: (Be careful installing and removing the dash after your custom work. The dash will not be as strong as stock obviously, and you do not want the bondo to crack. Hence why I made a template to prevent this as much as possible. Do at your own risk.



Now at the top, I needed to add some more area to where I cut out, and smooth it back down. Once again, I glued a dowel stick there added a bunch of bondo between the dowel stick and the dash and then sanded:



You can see all the little holes in the bondo on the picture above ^ so now you need another layer of bondo, by using a putty knife to fill in.





Here is where you should be at this point:



Reinstalled to check fitment, and re-draw more lines on the dash where the radio is.

 
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I super glued dowel sticks on the sides like seen (Smallest size I bought from Lowes) and added some bondo for reinforcement.



More Bondo filling the gaps.



Sanding smooth and starting to take shape:



More bondo with a putty knife to fill in holes:



Like a baby's butt:



Checking fitment:



At this point, if you are satisfied with how it looks, well begin painting. But I was not and wanted it as close to perfect as possible. Mine had large gaps on each side, like seen in the pictures:





This is how I fixed it. Doing what I have been the whole time, I made marks on each side where the dowel stick needs to go:





Took the dash back off, added bondo and fit the dash back on to check my work on the right side:



Did the same for the left side:



Here is what the back of my dash looks like. Not very pretty because no one will ever see it. Plenty of bondo so its strong.



At this point you are just about complete. Every double din is different shape / size so modify it to fit your radio. This is just how I did it to fit mine. Feel free to tweak the process I did and do what you want.

* When your satisfied with the fitment, sand to get it extremely smooth. If you feel an edge from the bondo to the dash itself, IT WILL show up on paint. The paint does not hide your imperfections. So fix them the best you can before you paint. My final sand before primer was 600 grit.

Your work bench will also be a mess like mine:



This is with four coats of sandable primer. Which I wet sanded with 600 grit to get it completely smooth after drying over night.



- At this point I'm still waiting for the Plasti-Dip to come in the mail, Dip the Dash Bezel and install on the car. Pretty self explanatory from here on out, but I will include pictures when I'm completely finished.
 
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And here is your official final product. Few coats of the Graphite Gray Plasti-Dip and it looks pretty close to stock. There is good and bad though with the Plasti-Dip.

Good: Very easy to paint, not messy, and encase you scratch / gouge an area, you can spot paint it, and it will cover up the imperfection like it was never there.

Bad: It's "Fragile." Very easy to create a scratch or peel some off, so be careful if you went this route.

Comparison picture. Stock is on the top.



Installed:









*Sorry for the bad pictures. May get some better ones in the future, but you get the picture. (No Pun Intended). ;)
 
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Looks good. I always thought there wasnt enough room for the double din to fit in the dash, not that the bezel just needed a little work. I might try this out.
 


Looks good. I always thought there wasnt enough room for the double din to fit in the dash, not that the bezel just needed a little work. I might try this out.

Majority of double dins will fit. But some larger ones may require some cutting into the dash on the top.

If I were you, I'd stick with a screen size smaller the 6.5"

It's still plenty big (trust me) and it should fit without any work on the dash itself, just the bezel, like mine.
 
Looks great man, very similar to mine. Thankfully I didn't need to move the lower bar though. Fantastic work!
 
I wanted to add a word of advice here. I'm sure the bondo will hold up just fine, however a more robust option would be fiberglass strand plastic filler. I say this because it is hydrophobic, unlike bondo which will expand and contract as humidity levels change. this could cause cracking. Also the fiberglass strands in the fiberglass strand plastic filler help to hold things together and is much stronger. just a tip from a body guy for those who may be concerned
 
I do agree ^ I've been told fiberglass is the way to go but I had zero experience with it and no idea where to start on how to use it. Bondo I had minor experience with, which is is why I used.

Thanks for your input though man, that's what this thread is for. To help someone that wants to do this but just doesn't have an idea how. All tips are welcome to help out.
 


They make fiberglass reinforced body filler that works and applies just like bondo. That is some good stuff.
 
Slick, that's the stuff I'm talking about. The old timers call it kitty hair lol. But if you want to find it at a store its usually labeled fiberglass strand plastic filler. It works the same way as bondo. It does take a bit more work to sand and shape but it is worth it
 
im about to do a lot custom molding in my T/A this is very helpfull cause replacement pieces are hard to find so ive got to make alot stuff
 
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