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WarStryker13

I break things.
So I'm young and stupid, bought an 04 GP GT N/A(FIRST CAR!!!!) for way too much little over a year ago and the dealership's warranty just ran out. Now I'm looking at a lot of little problems that I don't want to grow into big expensive problems, which become bigger and even more expensive considering I'm an expat in Germany for about another year. I've been here for two years already, learned a lot more than I thought I would, and now I need to learn much, much more. I fell in love with this car at the first turn of the key and I'm stubborn as flippers about making things work. So now that introductions are out of the way, I'll jump right into it.

#1: I can't toot my own horn.
When I bought her, she had a hole cut into the lower dash with a big, ugly black button. Right where my knee usually touches when I get in and out. That button led to a homebuilt harness and an aftermarket horn, with an entire relay, straight off the battery and grounded to the strut tower. Naturally, I hate jury-rigging that is not my own creation and I like it when I can hear if my car is actually locking when I press the button. So it went bye-bye within 15 minutes of me seeing it. So I started crawling through the car to find the offending fault and...still looking. I can hear a click every time I hit the steering wheel, that sounds like it's getting to the horn relay, but from the relay to the horn.......no idea. and the black & green wires that seemed to be in the proper place had been cut. Or chewed. :th_tongue2: So I can't be for sure that those wires are for my horn.​

#2: I like it smooth. Not bumpy.
The front end has given me trouble since the beginning of this little love affair. Right off the bat the front passenger side wheel bearing needed replaced, which the dealership has one shop that their warranty is valid through. And this being Germany, the mechanics know their BMW's and nothing else. So I don't know what damage they did, and I didn't have the money or the time to do anything myself. Again, young and stupid, kicking myself, etc. So front passenger wheel bearing, transmission fluid(just fluid, no filter as I found out later), and rear driver's side brake caliper rebuilt. My baby runs fine, gets me to work and back, and doesn't complain...Until a month after the warranty expires. So now the transmission is shifting hard into first when I slow down, or second when I go again; the rear caliper is leaking(again), and my ABS/Trac light is yelling at me. In the span of two months I've replaced: All brake pads, front stabilizer links, ball joints(factory rivets are a PAIN to remove!) tie rod ends, wheel bearings/hubs, and a CV boot(me being a derp).​


So if someone can point me in a direction, or tell me where I went stupid, it would be amazing.



p.s. I tend to be very passionate, so if I talk too much... I'm sorry.
 


For #2 do some reading in the transmission section of this forum - get familiar with the "search" option. You'll likely want to drop the transmission pan and change your transmission filter, potentially install a shift kit, potentially install a transmission cooler. You'll likely read about a shift solenoid - which I know nothing about - but this may need to be replaced.

Buy a rebuilt caliper and install. It's more expensive but should save you a lot of time.

For future reference, buy the entire lower control arm rather than replace the ball joints. Again its more expensive but you get lots of additional parts and an easier install.
 
already have the filter, gasket, and working on getting fluid...kinda hard to find legit Dextron over here. I was looking at the Thrasher kit from ZZP, but I was gonna ask if anyone had experience with it. The fluid is about 6 months old and its already starting to change to a nasty brownish red.......and I'm probably gonna have to replace most of the front end anyways. But its a chance to make some improvements. ;) any idea on the horn though?
 
ZZP's shift kit is fine, But all you really need is some 1/4 ID spacers. 2 1/2" long and 2 3/4" long for a medium shift kit. 2 3/4" and 2 1" for a hard shift kit. costs a total of 3 dollars.

The horn... Hard to say without seeing it. If theres no wiring harness to it then something there is messed from the previous owner and that'd be why they hard wired a button to it.

Do the other steering wheel buttons work? It's possible that the clock spring in the steering wheel needs to be replaced, that will cause the steering wheel to loose electrical connection with the car.
 
I know the Transgo shift kit has worked well for quite a few, including me - bought it from Amazon. I thought I heard some people were annoying that the ZZP shift kit was just some spacers that can be found at the hardware store, which is what SnowTh1ef is describing.

If your fluid is brown after 6 months, I'd guess you have a problem brewing.

I'm no help on the wiring issues.
 


I did some digging today, and the car has been neglected more than I thought... 6 months ago was the second change of fluid in 10 years. Which I just realized, i totally forgot the mileage on the car, sitting right under 90k. I've only put maybe 1k on it in the last year, so my best guess is that the fluid change just stirred up what the filter had caught after 5 years... Its not a burnt kind of brown, just a dirty kind of brown.

I'm pretty sure the clock ring is fine, it doesn't chirp while turning, and everything works without issue... I'll have to look for threads on dealing with the steering wheel, because playing with airbags requires more than what I know right now. But the steering wheel button for the horn is making it to the relay, and its clicking, but from the relay... :P and i found the harness clip in the bottom of the bumper...lol a few crimp connectors and it should work. If that IS where the horn harness goes... And i might be digging deeper into everything after reading up on almost everything that applies to her. WANTON MODDING!!!!!!

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At 90k I wouldn't be overly concerned about having 2 transmission fluid changes. That is about right per the maintenance schedule I believe.

It is highly recommended to NOT get a transmission flush. Just drop the pan, change filter and refill fluid to the correct level. That will exchange a good amount of the fluid.This recommendation is even stronger if the vehicle has a questionable maintenance history or the car is showing ANY shifting issues. DON'T FLUSH IT!
 
Well yes, of course. :P I am considering putting more work into it, maybe changing the two drive chains with the single chain and the HD diff out of a 4T65E... So would it be better to go ahead and build it now, or wait until the rest of my problems are cleared up and just change fluid and filter? And would a bottle of trans medic or similar type of additive help? Cuz I'm wondering if there's some buildup and if i can add a bottle of magically delicious to it and just change out fluid/filter one more time to make it sparkle... But i have a feeling that might be an atrocious idea.

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It sounds like you are more knowledgeable than I am with the internals as I would not take apart my own transmission. The following is purely speculation on my part:

In reference to adding parts, it sounds like your transmission is on its way out more than anything. I wouldn't spend money on any of the items you've mentioned (even though I don't know what those could improve). Trans medic seems to be hit or miss, some people advise it along with a shift kit, fluid and filter, and trans cooler. Others say it is snake oil. In reference to your buildup theory, many people have claimed the buildup in a sketchy transmission is the last thread holding it together. That is why a flush can ruin your transmission - it removes all the particulate and material the trans was depending on to function. Very technical, I know ... :th_scratchhead:

I'd do the shift kit, trans cooler, fluid and filter, trans medic and see what happens.
 
Buy the whole control arm because overtime the bushings on the OE control will wear out and the new control arm will have everything you need
 


It sounds like you are more knowledgeable than I am with the internals as I would not take apart my own transmission.
:

Lol I haven't torn it apart yet so idk if I know any more than the next overly passionate GP driver... But I'm either insane or crazy, cuz it really doesn't scare me. :P that might be a bad thing...

And the parts I was talking about? The dual chains in the 4T60 have a tendency to fail in the 400-500hp range, and the differential in the 4T60 trans is more likely to fail at launch than the "beefier" (aka thicker and heavier) HD diff in the 4T65E. But this is all in the 500hp+ level of things and I'm just overly excited about doing mechanicals thingys. Yes I know. Nobody should be this excited about a car 3 minutes before midnight...but I can't help it. :)
 
I should have mentioned earlier that I am severely ADHD, slightly OCD, and stubborn to a fault, so if i find something i don't understand God Bless America I won't stop tinkering with it until I do.

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I should have mentioned earlier that I am severely ADHD, slightly OCD, and stubborn to a fault, so if i find something i don't understand God Bless America I won't stop tinkering with it until I do.

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This is a GREAT quote.

Sent from BFE
 


Ok so I mixed up some years and things... Forgot that the 4T60 is a 97-03 trans and 4T65E/4T65E-HD is 04+... :P got a little carried away there for a moment.

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The 4t60 was only used in the non SC 97s (i thought) and the 4t65e was used in all 98-08 models with the "HD" ones being in supercharged cars and the GXP.

Sent from BFE
 
Uhm... I think you are right. I stand corrected once again. But one thing I will claim total ignorance in is whether or not there is a standard trans that will play nice with the Gen 5 3800... ?

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