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This a symptom of a wheel bearing?

FullOutPwr

New member
Ive had an issue with tight turns and having to really give some gas to get the car moving. The abs/ traction light turns on and there is a bit of a clunk then will move.

I looked into it a bit when doing brakes and found the following:

Axles turn freely when the vehicle is tracking straight.

There are no sounds or grinding

Turning to lock in either way the driver side axle does not turn freely when powered by the vehicle. Passenger side is moving fine when turned to lock either way and driver side is the same on lock either way

Ideas?
 


best to just get it scanned for abs codes at a shop, they will charge you, but its better then tossing money at parts.
 
How would abs be related? Seems more like an issue causing abs to kick on due to seeing problems at the sensor related to bind or whatever is occuring
 
your abs light is on right? get it scanned, abs does all sorts of odd crap like f ing with how firm the steering is. abs light comes on, the magna steer quits. aka firmer steering wheel.

abs can kick in for no reson at slow speeds while turning, make the brakes lock up, you name it.

get it scanned.
 
I should better explain. I honestly think the abs light is a result of the binding problem or whatever it is with the driver axle.

Abs light only very occasionally turns on. The low trac light will also turn on. Will turn on when im making a very tight turn and hit the gas. It will turn off right after i stop turning.

I had no brakes installed today whatsoever when i was turning the axle and felt the binding. With thr car in drive and turned to lock the driver axle will not turn at all without probably 30% throttle. If, however, you give no throttle and start turning the wheel the axle will start turning under low throttle like normal when i start bringing the wheel to tracking straight. The passenger side has none of these symptoms
 
this is so a abs issue you have no clue. get it scanned, i bet the ecbm is shot. seen this 10 times in the last 5 years here.
 


this is so a abs issue you have no clue. get it scanned, i bet the ecbm is shot. seen this 10 times in the last 5 years here.

Ok ill have it checked. Reason i dong understand as the problems are present when no brakes are on the car, and the abs cant affect the car and present symptoms when there are no brakes installed at all.
 
heres what ya do. open the fuse box under the hood, find that huge ass fuse thats for the abs. yank it. i bet the car turns rolls and brakes fine.

this will turn the abs lights on, but also completely disable it.
 
heres what ya do. open the fuse box under the hood, find that huge ass fuse thats for the abs. yank it. i bet the car turns rolls and brakes fine.

this will turn the abs lights on, but also completely disable it.

no change disabling abs. There is still a bogging feeling turn to lock and a slight pop when you give it gas
 
you may have a bad axle, and abs issues of some sort.

you can jack up each front wheel, and see if theres play in the hub by pushing and pulling the top of the tire. firmly, slowly. so you can feel the play. watch the rotor for it to move inside the caliper.

as long as it in the air check the tie rods by pushing and pulling the wheel at the 3 and 9 o clock areas, should be tight, if you get play, one of the tie rods are bad, inner or outer.

while its in the air turn the wheel back and fourth watch the axle shafts when the wheel is turned back and fourth, both side should turn together. it may even click.

but. if it was a axle you'll also have a vibration driving.
 
Stuck parking brake? If I forget to release it it will make loud pops if I attempt to drive off with it engaged? IIRC if there is a wheel lockup say when breaking hard on ice the ABS light comes on as the ABS kicks in to override the lockup so my guess is ABS is just doing its thing and responding to the stuck wheel.
 


In caae anyone searches and finds this thread with similar problems. Driver side axle was the culprit.

How so? Chewed up CV joint? If so, I assume it was the outer one at the hub? Surprised you didn't have any advance warning, as they get bad they usually make lots of noise when turning (big loud clicks) before they fail completely. I had one go in an Austin America many years ago, knew it was bad and was going to get it fixed/replaced, but before I did, it stripped out completely and was freewheeling, with one side's halfshaft spinning, car would not move! Had to push it off the highway and call for a tow.
 
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