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my ported blower/alky project

Bio248

Bio248

DUI BABY
i ported the outlet, sealed the silencer holes, sealed the EGR and divot in the inlet and smoothed it all out. I also added a nozzle that im going to use for my alky. i figure this is better than a throttle body spacer for a few reasons.

check it:

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opinions? suggestions? comments?
 


Looks good. I suggest you get it one so we can here it whine. I want to here one with the slits plugged.
 
Fwiw I plan on welding mine. I will have a thread that you can follow the progress in soon with the new m90 build up.
 
if it makes the blower sound sweet without effecting performance i might just add this to the to do list on my blower

i think im putting my nozzel where the egr dumps that way i dont have to put any holes in my genny 5.
 
Looks good man, you should definitely get some sound vids of that blower when you get that setup on. It looks like that thing is gonna scream :th_thumbsup-wink:.
 


what about polishing the rough spot in the middle of the casing? would that show any better flow? but other than that it looks good mang! and im with scotty. what did you use to fill those areas?
 
SyntheticShield said:
What did you use to close those slits up Bio? How much confidence do you have its going to stay in place?
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i used an aluminum epoxy that i got from NAPA. it starts as a puddy that you knead together the middle and outside and then after you let it sit it gets rock hard. im not worried about it going anywhere because the slots are angled so with the LIM being pressurized they are actually getting an upward force on them. i dont think they are going to go anywhere anyway.

if they do, then so be it. then i get to get a new motor. a better motor.

riceburner said:
what about polishing the rough spot in the middle of the casing? would that show any better flow? but other than that it looks good mang! and im with scotty. what did you use to fill those areas?
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i dont think polishing the rough spot is going to add or subtract anything, so im going to leave it. i really dont want to touch anything on the inside of the casing anyway.

01GTP said:
Looks good. I suggest you get it one so we can here it whine. I want to here one with the slits plugged.
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youre telling me man, i want to hear it too. too bad i have no video camera to take it with. my phone probably wont do it justice.
 
So I guess it's a race between me and you on the sound of the blower with the slits closed up.


I got about a month or two max before it's running. How about you?
 
TDCRacing said:
Fwiw I plan on welding mine. I will have a thread that you can follow the progress in soon with the new m90 build up.
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I'll be watching that as well. Ive given thought to both ways, but I had some concerns of perhaps welding them closed warping the case. That was further fueled when Trannyman reported that a few cases got warped with just powder coating I believe it was.
 


SyntheticShield said:
I'll be watching that as well. Ive given thought to both ways, but I had some concerns of perhaps welding them closed warping the case. That was further fueled when Trannyman reported that a few cases got warped with just powder coating I believe it was.
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I understand. Let me tell you how to prevent this. And give you an example.


Heat is going to warp the case as you already know. There is no way that where you're welding at on the blower will heat up the entire blower casing.


I just had a 8.8 out of my mustang set up with 9'' ends. (to get rid of the c-clip axles and to avoid using c-clip eliminators) Although I had mine done on a ''Jig'' to ensure straightness of the axles when you weld the new ones on the ends a lot of people do this without a jig and have had 0 issues. One of the problems come in when you start to weld the new tubes on, You get warping becuase of the heat and are left with an axle tube that is not straight. The people who do it without a jig simply do not weld the entire tube at once to prevent excess heat and warpage.



I don't plan on welding the entire slit closed at once. Will probably just do half a slit at a time. But it is still hard for me to beleive that where you are welding at even if you did weld up the entire slit at once that it would or could warp the case.I plan on checking the flatness of the mounting flange before and after welding.


I understand welding generates a high amount of heat. But the location of where you're welding at on the blower is not going to affect the flatness of the mounting with the exception of maybe around where the slit runs into the mounting surface of the blower case.



Can I prove it RIGHT NOW? No. But I will Shortly.



I can see where it may be possible to warp the casing in a 450* oven for 8 hours while powdercoatng. But there also have been a lot of sucsessfull blowers that were done without any issues.



I guess we will see. lol
 
Well I'll be looking forward to seeing what you produce. I know how to weld aluminum, 304 stainless, did a lot of TIG welding at one time. Ive taken a propeller off an outboard boat motor and rebuilt completely by welding only one of the blades and worked that sucker back to factory specs. So at one time I had some skills in welding. If not for the fact I dont have access to a decent welder, Id be buying up cases and seeing what once could do with them in this regards.

The question I have now, is how are you going to prevent the weld from going through into the rotor housing? What will you do if it does? I can see what you say about preventing the case from warping, makes perfect sense, but it seems if the weld went through the slit into the rotor housing area, that would be sort of disastorous.

It also seems to me that welding up the slits would be the first thing you should do so that through the process of porting, particularly if you are using and end mill, you could flatten things out again, though as you pointed, in that particular area its pobably not that critical other than what affect it may have on the rotor housing.

Its too bad we can sleeve those things to bring them back into tolerance once they get all scuffed up or something like that.
 
I forget what it's called at the moment. It's brass (you cant weld brass) and you stick it behind what you're welding so that the weld does not penetrate through. My brother has a miller so he'll be doing all of the welding. He told me what it is called but i have forgotten.


I beleive the thing i'm talking about is just like a toung depressor but is made of brass. I guess worse comes to worse I will have to a little grinding inside the blower case by the slits if there is any weld that seeps through?
 
It looks good man. The only thing that I would maybe suggest, is take that lip out of the very beginning of the inlet. Make the transition smooth from the TB to the SC. Did you use Quicksteel? That's good stuff, same stuff I use on all of my epoxy work, and have yet to have any of it fail. I'd be fairly confident in that stuff if you did a good surface prep.
 


TDCRacing said:
So I guess it's a race between me and you on the sound of the blower with the slits closed up.


I got about a month or two max before it's running. How about you?
Click to expand...

im not sure. i really depends on how this winter goes and how busy i am at work. it really bogs me down when i get off of work and i go home and dont want to do anything because i was just at work all day.

although, i see it going together fast now if i get ambitious because i have everything i need, just need to do it. :p

Reptile said:
It looks good man. The only thing that I would maybe suggest, is take that lip out of the very beginning of the inlet. Make the transition smooth from the TB to the SC. Did you use Quicksteel? That's good stuff, same stuff I use on all of my epoxy work, and have yet to have any of it fail. I'd be fairly confident in that stuff if you did a good surface prep.
Click to expand...

i didnt use quicksteel, but an aluminum epoxy. im assuming they are fairly similar so im not too worried about it. if i break something then i just get to make something better. ;)
 
x2 on smoothing the lip on the inlet for smooth transition from TB to SC

but that looks sweet dude! nice work.
 
Looks good, interested in hearing sound clips!

One question though, why are you using an M series nozzle verses DO style? DO would be way easier to swap out if you want to change nozzle sizes. Just wondering.
 
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