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97 GP GT - Let's project a project car (from trailer to driving)

I had the windows done 4 years and 80K miles ago. It only cooked in the last few months. At this point.. I'm likely not fixing it. 244K miles on the body now.
 







Took the tint off my back window too, but I clipped a line. I then had the windows tinted. Do you see where the window cracked? That "hot spot" is there the line was clipped. Over about 5 years of heat cycle, the window finally gave way in a cold rain.

My tint guy told me he used a 50/50 mix of Formula 409 and Windex to get the tint and glue off.
 
you work the squeegee left and right only. the tint just sticks tight to the glass and the defroster lines.

what lines? lol

that circle you see is over head power lines reflection.
tintbwindow.jpg


same tint 3 years later.

bumper3_zps62a4ab2d.jpg
 
Just added a step to TPC. Looks like I will try and convert the analog DIC to digital. I also got a HUD and trim with it. 40$ for all. Not sure if they work, will have to hit the forums and see how to bench test them. Also not sure if I will do the HUD, the threads had some good notes on installing one, but I did not get the controls with it. This came out of a 98 GT, I seen the hack to get a NON-97 digital DIC into a 97, not sure about the HUD. I have no user experience with HUD's, until I got the 07 GXP. It has a control to adjust the height and contrast. Do all HUD's do that or is the 98 on all the time and no adjustments?


 
I removed the tint from all my doors myself but went ahead and paid the extra $50 to have them remove the back window tint. This is coming from a guy who fabricated his own fuel rails from scratch just to save a few bucks lol.

Never converted a car to hud/digital dic but I did do a write up on how to put LEDS in the dic and change the color of it. And yes the older models have a switch to adjust position and brightness. It goes in that useless little pocket next to steering wheel in the dash between that and radio. In case you didn't know the huds are notorious for the photo eye/light sensor coming loose. All ya gotta do is resolder it and it's good. Might as well do it while you have it out if the car. I'll see if I can find the pic of it I think I have on my photobucket
 
Kejross said:
And yes the older models have a switch to adjust position and brightness. It goes in that useless little pocket next to steering wheel in the dash between that and radio. In case you didn't know the huds are notorious for the photo eye/light sensor coming loose. All ya gotta do is resolder it and it's good. Might as well do it while you have it out if the car. I'll see if I can find the pic of it I think I have on my photobucket
Click to expand...
None of the write ups said anything about the control. Or how it is wired up.
I can't remember if it was in the donor car. I wonder how hard it is to pull? Do I have to have it? Can it be added?
If you do find the picture post it.
 


Here's a write up on the photocell repair for the HUD... http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/33998-97-03-HUD-Dimming-Repair-Fix

It's not hard to pull that switch at all, just RIP the dash bezel off and I think it just clips in, no tools required iirc except maybe a pocket knife or flathead to help depress the tabs. Then gently remove bezel from your own car and that little cup should unclip just how the HUD switch did and then HUD switch will click back in. On the wiring though from what little I've read on the conversions isn't too bad, but I'm sure it needs that dimming switch to work. I extended the whole wire harness on my switch to move it to the left side if steering wheel on my old car, mainly so I could have that little cup back to set my phone in while it was connected to the stereo. So since your gonna have to solder harness back together anyway you can pick which side you want it on as it fits either or.


Here's my write up on changing the color/adding LEDs to the dic too. Even if you just go with red LEDs it will be such a nicer truer red than the orangish color it comes factory with.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/34472-DIC-COLOR-CHANGE!!!-First-atempt-learn-from-my-mistakes
 
penright said:
If you do find the picture post it.
Click to expand...
Man, that (Replacing LED's) was a long thread. Did not read the whole thing. So do you have some electronic engineering background?
1. What do you think about using the 98 DIC on the 97? Is the "tire pressure" light a show stopper?
2. Is the data buss protocol/messaging the same?

I was thinking, the ODB-II connector has a lot of the signals to make a bench test box for both the HUD and DIC. To simulate the door and such, a person could have momentary push button to apply the appropriate signal. Just thinking out loud.

penright said:
None of the write ups said anything about the control. Or how it is wired up.
I can't remember if it was in the donor car. I wonder how hard it is to pull? Do I have to have it? Can it be added?
Click to expand...
The control was still there, the same guy who check me out yesterday was there and he remembered me. I told him to add $3 Misc because the last time I was there they made a mistake and undercharged me. At least I hope that is why he remember me and not because I am funny looking. :-) So when I started to pay, he said we were good. I figured if I had with the HUD he would not have charged me, but since it was a new day, I did not know what would happen. So now I think I have all the pieces.
There was a GP right next to it, both had the bezel off, I see how it snaps in place of my pocket.
 
penright said:
Man, that (Replacing LED's) was a long thread. Did not read the whole thing. So do you have some electronic engineering background?
1. What do you think about using the 98 DIC on the 97? Is the "tire pressure" light a show stopper?
2. Is the data buss protocol/messaging the same?

I was thinking, the ODB-II connector has a lot of the signals to make a bench test box for both the HUD and DIC. To simulate the door and such, a person could have momentary push button to apply the appropriate signal. Just thinking out loud.
Click to expand...

No engineering background, was just into building amplifiers and fx pedals and stuff in my teens when I was in a band. And my gramps was an electrical engineer for tinker for over 40 years and has 15years of college on the subject so he helped me get into it a bit and was there when I had questions.

And I really don't know anything about the 97's, I always avoided them like the plague due to these issues exactly. And the trans, plus being first year production of a new model. If it were me though, I wouldn't waste time with a complicated bench test setup, just install it and pray it works. Maybe just tie into existing stuff instead of cutting plugs off though. That way if it don't work you can easily revert and try again later. There's gotta be someone who has done this before that can help somewhere...
 


Most of the stuff could be tested.

Turn signals are probably a Pos trigger
Engine blew up is likely a Neg trigger
Hook up power/ground to the standards and you can test some.

It's my experience (having done ~10+ installs) that it'll work. Do the photocell solder reflow before you put it in and you'll be a happy camper.
 
Been a while. The last time I worked on it was removing the tint, which still have some (tint) to go. It was the hottest part of last summer, put a thermometer in the car, this is with doors open.

20140825_175020_zpsta3qf6ss.jpg



Have not been back in it since. Between winter and time, this weekend I helping my nephew do a 3.1 lower intake gasket (95 Cutlass). He is also missing a outside door handle, which means a trip to local Pull-a-Part. While I was there I scope out GP's looking for air-conditioner control knobs. If I am buying other things they don't charge me for them. With as many that are gone, I am not the only one. So while strolling through the yard, I ran across this GP. Which brings me to this post, I wonder if there are any ideas I can glean from it. :-) There are lots of little details, you have to look close to catch them, but worth the look. :-)

20150129_131505_zpsgflenrxy.jpg


20150129_131603_zpsgi7hgxhh.jpg


20150129_131614_zps29fr2yml.jpg


20150129_131623_zpsdvl70tsk.jpg
 


It's been a year and still have not worked on the car. I need to update my signature, the "new silver" has over 200,000, the GXP has almost 80,000 but the "Project Car" miles has not changed. Hopefully I will have more post next year other than my annual nothing has changed.
At least now I will have a place to work on it. I will share the link to my post in the Garage Journal for details. (http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6194046&postcount=1)
I did move the car out of the driveway of the old house to the storage shed so they can take pictures to sell it. I will move it when the new shop is finished, unfortunately look like it will be by trailer again.
I started the thread to document a project car, didn't think at the time I would be one of those guys with the interior still gutted out. :-(
 
New house and now my plate is full. Going to have to get rid of the project car. Maybe donate most of it and they sell off the goodies.:confused:
If I decide to sell as parts or sell the goodies, I will link to the post in the appropriate forum.
 
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