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Im Lost...ABS/TCS Light Issues...

05CompG

05CompG

New member
Ok so for the past couple months, ive had these stupid lights on (ABS, TCS, Stability System, Service Brake System) And based on my readings here, i concluded that it was a wheel hub issue...so i went about replacing them. Back two were replaced at different intervals (like a week or so apart), lights still were on. Then this weekend i finally get to replacing the front two...lights still on. FML....then i search the site again, found out about possible broken connections. So i look for those. No Luck...all connections are fine EXCEPT driver rear. its not broken but it does have a nick in the line. So if this is the cause of the lights, what is the proper fix?
 


Could be.. Either way that should be addressed.. Cut the line.. Pull back the insulation till it's clean wire then solder and throw some heat shrink tubing over it..


Unless you want to pay a shop to scan it for you this is a potential cheap fix!
 
ze8aqube.jpg

3agupy4e.jpg


Pics of said connecter
 
REDCOMPG said:
Could be.. Either way that should be addressed.. Cut the line.. Pull back the insulation till it's clean wire then solder and throw some heat shrink tubing over it..


Unless you want to pay a shop to scan it for you this is a potential cheap fix!
Click to expand...

Well thing is, after i got the hubs all replaced, and the lights were still on, i did end up taking it to a shop and having the ABS system scanned and the tech told me it wasnt throwing any codes...which is why im lost lol...idk wtf to do.
 
REDCOMPG said:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/91256-ABS-Light-Problems-Go-Figure

Try ^ that sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't but it's something you can do that won't cost you anything unless you don't have a multimeter. It can help pinpoint the problem area and give you a direction as to which sensor/wiring could be the culprit.

Oh and fix that wire too it's asking for a weak connection and for corrosion to get into.
Click to expand...

I think im going to end up ordering a whole new rear harness. Hopefully that does solve the issue. I tried that multimeter thing (That specific thread actually)...maybe im just dumb but i couldnt figure it out...lol i didnt know what to put the multimeter on, i tried it on all the settings and wasnt getting anywhere so...yeah...lol

But here is the P/N for a new harness in case anyone else maybe having this issue...its only 58 bucks + shipping.

http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts-l...d-prix/brake-electrical-system-anti-lock.html
P/N: 15776487 (#1 in the pic)

060523MW04-102.JPG


(Pic and Part # ctsy of BlackArrow98GP Over on GPONA.com)
 


Noted lol. Oh and try RA might be able to get it cheaper.

Will bookmark that so when I get around to fixing my abs light again I have a good harness to throw on there.
 
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I need to get pictures or videos explaining how I tested the wire or just a simple diagram would work. Its hard to explain kinda if you have never done it before.

Take that part # to the dealership they might be able to get it cheaper than GMPD or online GM dealer store thingys.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
Russosaur said:
I need to get pictures or videos explaining how I tested the wire or just a simple diagram would work. Its hard to explain kinda if you have never done it before.

Take that part # to the dealership they might be able to get it cheaper than GMPD or online GM dealer store thingys.

Sent from the Milky Way
Click to expand...

Well honestly, i understood the testing the wire at the EBCM part....my issue was testing it at the hub as well as what settings the multimeter needed to be on...all those numbers and diff settings for OHM and DC and all that crap confused the hell out of me. But im gonna try the dealer and see. Hopefully i can get it a lil cheaper. If not, 65 bucks shipped isnt that bad for a peace of mind...lol this s**t is irritating.
 
REDCOMPG said:
Noted lol. Oh and try RA might be able to get it cheaper.

Will bookmark that so when I get around to fixing my abs light again I have a good harness to throw on there.
Click to expand...

RA actually has it as more...$81 before shipping. I was kinda shocked when i saw that. They usually are the cheapest.
 


I set my DMM to measure like 5000ohms, or whatever number is closer to 1000 without going under 1000.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
Russosaur said:
I set my DMM to measure like 5000ohms, or whatever number is closer to 1000 without going under 1000.

Sent from the Milky Way
Click to expand...

So it needs to be on the ohms side on the clostest to 1k without going under...at that point, when i touch one prong to pin 2 and the other to pin 3, what should happen? and while im testing each pin, should the key be on or off?
 
Car need to be off and yeah set it closest to 1k without going under I forget what the increments are mine has, so yeah to check 1 bearing from the EBTCM connector put the leads on the pins corresponding to the bearing you want and it should have somewhere around 1070ish Ohms or at least mine did. Then its the same for the pigtail at the hub should read about 1070ish ohmns, its just harder to get a solid connection. If it reads 0 at the connector but at the hub it reads fine a wire is probably broke someplace.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
So another question, if im testing at the hub, should the underhood connector be plugged in? and vice versa for if im under the hood?
 
If your testing the hubs pigtail it can be unplugged because you gotta unplug it by the HUB to test it anyway. If your tested using the under hood connector make sure the hub is plugged into the main harness.

Sent from the Milky Way
 


Ok. Ill try all of the testing again sometime this week. Maybe it can confirm what i already know. Hopefully its just that harness. If not, im driving it off a cliff.
 
Just pull the bulb from the cluster and DIC lol, losing TC and ABS and magnasteer isn't a huge loss in my book.


I just hope I'm not confusing you, I hate wasting someone elses time.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
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